MANOSLADOP
New Member
my friend you have a bearing problem of the crankshaft.Bad oil or no oil.You must take apart all the engine.The knock must be a rod bend.
Sean BE
New Member
The clicking (as opposed to a knock) only happens when under load and other than that it runs perfect.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
It doesn't appear to happen when not moving - is that the case? ie you can rev the nuts off the engine without the 'click' - but if you put if in gear and move it will 'click'.
If that is the case, try removing the prop shafts (ie between front & rear diffs inc VCU) and try again.
If that is the case, try removing the prop shafts (ie between front & rear diffs inc VCU) and try again.
Sean BE
New Member
Yes, thats right you can rev the engine without the click and you only get it when you first start off under pressure.
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
+1 on @GrumpyGel idea of removing the prop shaft.
My money is on the IRD. Place your bets.....
My money is on the IRD. Place your bets.....
Sean BE
New Member
IRD?
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
Intermediate Reduction Drive. It splits the drive to the front and rear axle.
If your viscous coupling has locked up then the IRD takes a real pounding.
If your viscous coupling has locked up then the IRD takes a real pounding.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
If that's just the IRD, whys it smoking like a train?
Injector problem for the smoke.
If the IRD had gone I doubt it would only make that noise on set off. It'd be like a bag of spanners constantly.
I'd get it up in the air and give everything a good pull and push.
I'm not placing a bet yet. A bit more info needed.
Mike
Injector problem for the smoke.
If the IRD had gone I doubt it would only make that noise on set off. It'd be like a bag of spanners constantly.
I'd get it up in the air and give everything a good pull and push.
I'm not placing a bet yet. A bit more info needed.
Mike
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
True, true @Skinny Mike .
I probably jumped the gun.
I probably jumped the gun.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Out of interest, get under the car and give the prop shaft a good pull, both front and back bits, I.E in front and behind the disc bit in the middle. Is it moving much?
Mike
Mike
Sean BE
New Member
It has just had the prop shaft done about 2 months ago so that is all okay
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Sorry mate, that means nothing. If they used cheap prop bearings they might have worn out already!
And I'm not joking, unfortunately.
Mike
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
+1
I'd go so far as to say that if its just been done, it puts it right on the top of the things to check!
Why was the prop shaft "done"? What did you have done and, more to the point, why?
If you had work done at a garage that doesn't understand fully how Freelander works (and most don't) they may have fixed a fault but not the symptoms.
I come back to what I said earlier.... are all 4 road tyres the exact same make/model and pumped to the same pressure, plus have you tested the VCU in any way? Have you had new tyres recently? If you did and only replaced 2, did the new ones go on the rear? Most tyre shops will put them on the front, and that's not what you do with Freelander.
I agree the smoke starts at the same time as the 'clicks' - but if it were something like the fuel pump or turbo making the noise, why does it not do it when stationary. Mind you, if its the transmission, why does it only do it when pulling away and not cruising?
I'm wondering if a combination of failing lower tie bar bush (allowing engine to sway under load) and completely knackerd inner CV could cause this.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Anti roll bar broke lose of bushes?
Mike
Mike
Alibro
Well-Known Member
My car had new diff supports 1000 miles before I bought it and the front support was totally shot. I think it was a combination of poor quality parts and a VERY tight VCU made it fail prematurely. You say the propshaft was done but what exactly was done? Was the VCU replaced with a new one and new support bearings?
