The turbo boost is not easily read by just reving the motor. If I do that on mine it never reads above 0.5 bar. You need to put the motor under load to get a true boost reading. Preferably taken at the inlet manifold.

Get out and find a good long incline (the steeper the better) - select third or fourth at about 30mph and bury the throttle.
You should see an immediate increase in boost - mine reads about 1.2 bar max - then the boost should settle down and increase smoothly as the revs increase.

Mine has been tweaked by Gary at TD5 Alive so I'm not sure what a bog standard set up should read. I would expect it to peak at 15psi or 1bar under load at full throttle. If it exceeds this then your ECU will log over pressure and adjust performance down (by reducing fuel injected) to keep the turbo spinning slower and inlet pressures down.

Dont give up on it as the TD5 is a very good motor once set up properly. :)
 
Thanks Shifty I thought it might need a run. I will attach all the hoses properly on Saturday and carry out the test you said. I’ve got just the hill near me for this. Trying to rush the job after work isn’t good. Have learnt a lot very good site.
 
charlesy
Can you help. I have a disco with a td5 engine. I have just purchased a boost gauge. Can you tell me where you connected you boost gauge hose as the td5 vacume hose is computer controlled. This would be a great help as i have the same problem as lightning with the waste gate settings.
Cheers steve

I cut the little black pipe that goes from the turbo compressor output hose to the little square black box. Cut the pipe, and slip in the Tee-Piece that comes with the gauge.

It isn't easy to see the small pipe under the PAS pipes and stuff.

I fed a length of copper brake pipe around the front of the engine bay, and fitted the gauge in a pd to the right of the dash.

CharlesY
 
Cheers charlesy I have found where to fit it now will have a go tomorrow. Nice idea about the brake pipe that would make a neat job will try to get some tomorrow.

steve
 
Finally fitted the boost gauge properly today. Took the car for a test drive up a big hill in 2nd. The boost gauge got to 17 Psi max. On normal driving it runs below 15 Psi. Very happy all is well. Still need to mount the gauge when I fined a nice pod. Took a photo but can't seem to attach it to this forum.
 
Finally fitted the boost gauge properly today. Took the car for a test drive up a big hill in 2nd. The boost gauge got to 17 Psi max. On normal driving it runs below 15 Psi. Very happy all is well. Still need to mount the gauge when I fined a nice pod. Took a photo but can't seem to attach it to this forum.

That sounds like perfect from here.

It's fun watching the gauge as you drive along.

CharlesY
 
/very interesting thread... thinking of buying a td5 as i just sold my N/A :D but there are loads of scare stories out there! might hang on for a nice 300 to turn up. i dunno. TD5 seems expensive to run/repair
 
/very interesting thread... thinking of buying a td5 as i just sold my N/A :D but there are loads of scare stories out there! might hang on for a nice 300 to turn up. i dunno. TD5 seems expensive to run/repair

I suppose they can be a problem sometimes, but mine is doing well at 51k miles, and running on mostly home made biodiesel now.

I had to repair a leaking injector copper washer while it was still under warranty, but other than that, and a few fuel and oil filters, that's it.

Mine is still on its original 5 tyres, and original brake pads - at 51k miles.

Pretty good all considered, and a lovely car to drive.

As for towing, show me a better one. My Disco TD5 handles over six tons gross without any trouble.

CharlesY
 
You tried the air flow meter? I had a similar problem on a car years ago where it went totally flat if you put your foot down - turned out that's all it was in the end.
 
I had a similar problem on my TD5 Discovery and found it to be the modulator solenoid valve, part number PMK100130. Easy to find and easy to test. Just follow the small air hose from the wastegate actuator, it connects to the modulator. To test if this is causing your problem, bypass it by running a hose directly from the wastegate actuator to the pipe between the turbo and intercooler. My one had siezed closed meaning the wastegate would not open when the pressure built up so the limp home mode would kick in. Hope this helps.
 

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