Kayos

Active Member
I did the discs and pads all round on my D2, all was well until I did a 3 point turn and the o/s front ABS sensor wire snapped, bringing on the 3 amigos and the red brake warning light. No proper bracket and I must have pulled it too tight

I cable tied the wire out of the way and carried on.

Brand new sensor fitted today and I still have the lights

Ignition on and the ABS stays lit, the other 2 go out briefly but then come back on.

No sign of the amigos before the wire snapped, ABS, TC and HDC all working well
 
Have you driven it since the new sensor was fitted as the abs light should go out after a short drive
but you may still have to clear the stored fault codes.
 
Yeah I've been out in it.
I was thinking stored codes as the ABS light never goes out
 
For the 3 amigos it's almost always a good idea to get the codes read, it can save a lot of time and money once you know exactly what's causing the problem.
It's also a good idea to clear all the historic codes logged or else you could find yourself trying to trace a fault which no longer exists, although some fault indications can clear the indications once the required speed is reached. Clearing the logged codes and then taking a test drive should point you in the right direction when faultfinding.
Use a code reader known to give you "honest" results such as Hawkeye, Nanocom or Lynx.
 
I know the exact cause

Heard wire twang, bong bong bong, 3 amigos on, look underneath and see wire

I was hoping swapping the sensor would turn them off, seems it’s the stored codes keeping them on
 
I know the exact cause

Heard wire twang, bong bong bong, 3 amigos on, look underneath and see wire

I was hoping swapping the sensor would turn them off, seems it’s the stored codes keeping them on
Unless it doesn't like the air gap on the new sensor
 
Did you use a Wabco sensor? Some others give false readings, and as said the air gap is critical. Get it plugged in and clear all faults and then go for a drive and read again. Find somebody near you with a Nanocom or Hawkeye to give you a plug in. There is a locator map of people who have them on www.d2bc.co.uk. Lots around Leeds.....

Tony
 
Did you use a Wabco sensor? Some others give false readings, and as said the air gap is critical. Get it plugged in and clear all faults and then go for a drive and read again. Find somebody near you with a Nanocom or Hawkeye to give you a plug in. There is a locator map of people who have them on www.d2bc.co.uk. Lots around Leeds.....

Tony

Yeah, £15 more than a Britpart so I thought it was money well spent
 
Ok, so a proper Wabco. In that case it is either not seated properly, or dirt on the reluctor ring or the air gap is too big, but as said get a plug in to ensure it is the same hub that is giving you the error, as the one you replaced.....

Or see here http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=26583 for how to test ABS sensors with a multimeter. I suggest you test all four.... You should be getting 950-1100 ohms.
Tony
 
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Ok, so a proper Wabco. In that case it is either not seated properly, or dirt on the reluctor ring or the air gap is too big, but as said get a plug in to ensure it is the same hub that is giving you the error, as the one you replaced.....

Or see here http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=26583 for how to test ABS sensors with a multimeter. I suggest you test all four.... You should be getting 950-1100 ohms.
Tony

I've signed up but not been approved yet.

The fact the ABS light never goes out but the other 2 does says its either still faulty or a stored code, however without a diagnostic machine I'm just guessing.

I have a bit of time tomorrow so I'm going to repair the old one and give that a try, once I can log onto D2BC I will have a read
 
Plugged it in, cleared stored codes and it’s all good to go.

Seems because the wire snapped while the car was moving the “abs sensor failure” fault wouldn’t reset
 

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