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Collman

Member
The hand brake on my Defender 90 Td5 2004 is sticking and the lever us bouncing up when I release it. I plan to open the drum to see if muck is the issue. Is it safe to use WD40 on the springs etc, or should I only use brake cleaner?
 
Probably don't want to get WD40 on the brake shoes.
I washed my son's transmission brake out with water. Took all the little adjusters out, greased them all up and put everything back together.
 
Anaconda said:
Probably don't want to get WD40 on the brake shoes.
I washed my son's transmission brake out with water. Took all the little adjusters out, greased them all up and put everything back together.
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Should mention his was stuck solid with mud.
 
May well be simpler to replace the shoes, springs, expander, adjuster, after all they are nearly 20 years old and do wear.
 
D1Nut said:
Do embellish a lot more plse
Click to expand...
I also have an x-eng disc hand brake conversion on mine but I bought it second hand about 10 years ago so it was very cheap. I dont know if I would bother doing it again. It is better than the old style lever handbrake mechanism but the more modern handbrake where the cable goes into the backing plate I do not know if there is much benefit unless you spend your entire life in muddy soup and fill the drum with slime and then do not maintain it afterwards.
 
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Usually caused by the cable bending at hand brake lever connection, a very common fault, new cable required. Changed mine for same fault and now perfect.
 
I opened it up today and everything is coated in a brown dust. Have ordered new brake shoes, new springs and a new cable. It would be easier to clean up the back plate off the vehicle; is removing it just a case of undoing the four bolts on the back plate?
 

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And you can build it all back up on the bench too, better than wrestling underneath. Been a while since I did mine but I recall putting a couple of old bolts through 2 of those 4 bolt holes so I could clamp the whole backplate complete in a vice and build it back up again. Strip the actuator down and clean, grease it well, paying particular attention to how it's assembled, it's easy to cock that bit up.
 
Collman said:
I opened it up today and everything is coated in a brown dust. Have ordered new brake shoes, new springs and a new cable. It would be easier to clean up the back plate off the vehicle; is removing it just a case of undoing the four bolts on the back plate?
Click to expand...
If you're on a budget I reckon that will all clean up.
 
I opened it up today and everything is coated in a brown dust. Have ordered new brake shoes, new springs and a new cable. It would be easier to clean up the back plate of the vehicle; is removing it just a case of undoing the four bolts on the plate?
Anaconda said:
If you're on a budget I reckon that will all clean up.
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I don’t mind spending on it but most of it does seem ok under the dust. New springs and a good greasing should do the job.
 

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As noted by Flossie, make sure the pistons in the actuator go back in with inner ends angled the same way as they came out. Putting in wrong is common mistake and results in hand brake no worky
 
tottot said:
As noted by Flossie, make sure the pistons in the actuator go back in with inner ends angled the same way as they came out. Putting in wrong is common mistake and results in hand brake no worky
Click to expand...
My brake is cable only; I don’t thing that there are any pistons!
 
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