I've painted the petrol tank mount after the welding. Forgot what powerful smelling stuff that chassis paint is. Gave me a bit of a headache.
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There wasn't too much rust on it, mostly surface and no rot. One bit had started to get more serious though. This seam had started to expand out with rust.
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Three spot welds and a little slice at each end.
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Gives access to the rust.
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It was far worse than that actually but I forgot to take a picture. Clean it up and treat it with Bilt Hamber.
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The only problem then is to clean where it needs to be welded.
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Dremel was perfect for this. I used to try to use weld through primers but they all seemed to cause problems with spattery, porous welds so i've given up with them.
Bend it back to shape and get welding.
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The big clean up next. Didn't want to put the Bilt Hamber stuff all over. I can't seem to get it flat enough for painting without more or less sanding it all off so that's a waste of time. In this case everywhere that isn't going to be seen gets Bilt Hamber, the bits that need to look smart get etch primer for now.
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Time now to own up to a blunder. I've started offering up the steering box and column. Seemed to go ok to start with.
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Soon became clear that it's going to foul on the brake pedal tower. Seems that either the pre-drilled holes in the new footwell are in the wrong place or i've got it welded in wrong.
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If it was just a bit out it would be easy enough to slot out the holes a bit but have a look how far out this is.
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On the positive side there's room for new holes on one side that will be hidden but between the pedal towers the old holes are going to be half visible. Not enough to fit a grommet and i'm not starting welding again. I am going to take off the brake pedal completely, fit the steering and then see where the brake pedal ends up having to go. I can feel some very creative bodging coming on.
 
Time now to own up to a blunder. I've started offering up the steering box and column. Seemed to go ok to start with.
View attachment 280760
Soon became clear that it's going to foul on the brake pedal tower. Seems that either the pre-drilled holes in the new footwell are in the wrong place or i've got it welded in wrong.
View attachment 280762
If it was just a bit out it would be easy enough to slot out the holes a bit but have a look how far out this is.
View attachment 280763
On the positive side there's room for new holes on one side that will be hidden but between the pedal towers the old holes are going to be half visible. Not enough to fit a grommet and i'm not starting welding again. I am going to take off the brake pedal completely, fit the steering and then see where the brake pedal ends up having to go. I can feel some very creative bodging coming on.
Thought…..
Are the clutch & brake pedal the same???
Does your picture show them in the wrong places?
Only checking ;) before you drill holes
 
Thought…..
Are the clutch & brake pedal the same???
Does your picture show them in the wrong places?
Only checking ;) before you drill holes
And a good thought. I'll double check. I'm pretty sure they are right way round as the pedal towers are different. Like you say though I'll try anything before drilling.
 
More great work there - I really like the attention to detail in evicting the tin worms - deffo the right call IMO :)

Hi. Thanks for the support. I'm trying to get rid of as much rust as I can. I know there's always more trapped between the spot welded seams but unless it's bad I'm just going to rely on the bilt hamber.

Nope - appears somewhat hit and miss o_O
 
More random bits getting done. I've started the dashboard but this is going to be a big problem. Doesn't look too bad here but don't be fooled.
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You can start to get the idea here.
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When the vinyl and foam covering comes off the full horror is clear.
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When I stripped the cover off this is all the rubbish that was still hidden in there.
 
Missed the last photo again.
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I've decided to repair it despite it being in such terrible condition. Nobody makes replacements and any second hand ones are likely to be as bad. You could be lucky and find a good one but how many rubbish ones that are no better would you have to buy or travel to look at in the mean time. Might as well just bite the bullet.
 
Ages ago I started on the small section of dash that covers the wiper motor. I've now been and bought some thin steel, a bit more like what the dash is made of. The dash is 0.7mm and I have a sheet of 0.8mm. I've got plenty of 1.2mm that I used for the bulkhead and other bits. I think it's better to have similar thickness. You wouldn't think that 0.4mm difference would be a big deal but it's much easier to shape. It's also a lot harder to weld and I seem particularly bad at welding thin stuff.
I'm trying to remove as little as I can but a lot has got to go.
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The repair sections are easy to make and look just the job.
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Now if that was thicker steel I could weld it in no problem. I like to butt weld stuff and grind it back so you can hardly see where i've been. I tried that on this piece but it has not gone well. Not got the pictures of that ready yet. The distortion is the worst. I've decided that from here on everything is going to have joggled, double thickness edges. After all none of this will be seen once it's recovered with vinyl.
 
It's also easy to straighten out. It's crazy how thin this stuff is. It's a wonder any of it has survived at all really. I haven't found any evidence of it being primed and the paint is so thin. At least that makes it easy to sand and clean up.
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The fan blade is particularly rusty and horrible.
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The back is pretty good but all those blades are going to be a nightmare to clean up.
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I thought I would have a go with some Bilt Hamber. The instructions say to leave stuff in the solution for about an hour or maybe longer for the really rusty stuff. I half submerged it and put it to one side thinking I would definitely need longer than standard. Then I forgot all about it and it ended up in there for about 6 weeks.
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Guess which side was in the liquid?
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The inside didn't do as well.
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In the end I have taken it to a local place for blasting today. That'll sort it.
 
I don't want to take chances with the dash going out of shape as I chop lumps out of it so I thought I would have a way of keeping it's original dimensions.
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There's a good chance things are going to move as we get going with this and there's also a good chance that despite trying really hard I may not have got the holes in the bulkhead in exactly the right places. There will have to be a lot of offering up done I think.
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So where to start with something as bad as this. I really didn't think I would be able to recreate this dash. I thought it was too far gone but I started with the easiest bit on the least damaged end.
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Nice, flat and easy to make.
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I had to mangle the old one to get it off.
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Where there was metal left it cleaned up well.
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I love putting the Bilt Hamber stuff on. It's easy and quick. I don't know if it's any real good long term but it really makes you feel like you're getting somewhere.
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Plug welds. The old steel is so bloody thin it will sometimes fizzle and blow through. I've done alright with the welding up to now but this stuff is really testing me.
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We always get there in the end though.
 

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