Stretch said:
The green book cheerfully says you can use a chisel to split the starter ring from the flywheel to replace it...

...you can see in my thread what happened to the flywheel when I tried that! I got a replacement flywheel. (Old flywheel is now a weight for a stand)

In your case I'd also go for a new flywheel - those cracks are heat cracks - you could potentially have the flywheel skimmed but I reckon that would probably work out more expensive than replacement. I'd also replace the clutch - even though it looks like it is fairly new - because it has been up against the cracked flywheel I'd just replace all of the friction parts to be on the safe side. X2 on the worn fingers comment from Dippypud
Click to expand...
did you drill a hole first to weaken the ring gear
 
jamesmartin said:
did you drill a hole first to weaken the ring gear
Click to expand...
Yep - the ring seemed to be far too malleable to ever want to crack - it was like a metal version of play dough where you could hide your chisel...

...I've only tried it once on one (probably) original 1965 version - after that experience it just seemed best to source good replacements. There's the slight difference in lug positions between the series 3 and 2a versions of course but that's quite easy to remedy
 
Stretch said:
Yep - the ring seemed to be far too malleable to ever want to crack - it was like a metal version of play dough where you could hide your chisel...

...I've only tried it once on one (probably) original 1965 version - after that experience it just seemed best to source good replacements. There's the slight difference in lug positions between the series 3 and 2a versions of course but that's quite easy to remedy
Click to expand...
odd we used to change the ring gear regularly,though now most fly wheels ive seen are far too long in the tooth
 
Just to add a bit of info to this, I had a local machine shop replace the ring gear on my flywheel and regrind (skim??) The face. The labour was £65 and the new ring gear £35 so £120 inc VAT. Lovely job they did too. :D
 
Last edited:
Next question.
I'm getting ready to put the engine on a stand and the bolts I have are grade 5 as below.
So do you think that they are strong enough or is it just crazy to use anything less than grade 8 (which I believe are marked with 6 lines on the head )

20171120_115527-1.jpg
 
Here's a little mystery. This is the serial number badge from the bell housing on the gearbox. That missing bit has been worn away. It's gone right through the badge and into the housing. What do you reckon would do that? It looks like something has been rubbing away at it for years.

DSC07485.jpg




DSC07816.jpg
The gearbox is in and I'm starting on the engine. If I'm not careful I might actually start making some progress.
I had to tie the front end down as it is very arse-heavy as it stands.
DSC07812.jpg
 
DSC07936.jpg

DSC07920.jpg
DSC07918.jpg
DSC07914.jpg
DSC07897.jpg

Time to start on the engine.
I really didn't want to get too deep into it but I'm starting to feel a bit 'in for a penny'. While it's this accessible it might be best to have a shufty.
It ran ok before the strip down and I know it's a military refurb engine so it may not have done too many miles.
So looking at the smooth sides of the block and by the original duck egg blue colour that shows through the horrible hammerite green I places I reckon it's a 3 bearing crank. The top end has metric fastenings though so I think that is from a later 5 bearing engine. Is that possible? The oil filler cap is in the rocker cover and there is no filler neck going to the side of the block. It's a bit of a Heinz 57.
It has been standing on that pallet for a long while and although I have been putting a drop of oil down the spark plug holes and turning it over every now and then I do worry that it might be hiding some horrors.
I bought that engine stand ages ago. I had always fancied the idea of being able to spin the engine over to get access. Having said that it was easier to just leave the engine on the pallet until now.
I did my homework, asked questions and watched a lot of youtube but it was still very scary dangling the engine on the stand for the first time. Just 4 bolts supporting it from one end just didn't feel safe. I attached the gubbins a bit too low at first making it too top heavy. If I had left it like that the first time I tried to rotate it it would have gone over with such a rush it would have probably tipped the lot over. Attaching the bracket higher allows it to rotate smoothly especially as I greased everything really well when I assembled the stand.
Next it will be a really good clean before taking the sump of to see what sort of gunk has settled in it.
I should really take the head off and check the bores but there's a part of me that's thinking just bung it back in and keep your fingers crossed.
Core plugs and seals (rear crank) are a definite and a good flush out of the waterways.
I'm sure many other bits will crop up as we go.
 
Last edited:
only metric heads etc were available , in the 90s when we were reconditioning a lot if they needed a new head it was metric lr did a bolt kit etc to make it easier, yours is 3 brg,its worth taking the head off youve gone so far
 
LincolnSteve said:
Here's a little mystery. This is the serial number badge from the bell housing on the gearbox. That missing bit has been worn away. It's gone right through the badge and into the housing. What do you reckon would do that? It looks like something has been rubbing away at it for years.

View attachment 135722
Click to expand...

That looks like cable rub to me. No experience with that on the Land Rover, but plenty on old motorcycles. Last year one of our Norton club members sprung a petrol leak during a ride after a cable had spent many years slowly rubbing away underneath the tank.
 
I think the positive from the solenoid to the starter runs round the back of the engine and over the bell housing. Have a careful look at it on reassembly.
 
Cowboy Don said:
That looks like cable rub to me. No experience with that on the Land Rover, but plenty on old motorcycles. Last year one of our Norton club members sprung a petrol leak during a ride after a cable had spent many years slowly rubbing away underneath the tank.
Click to expand...
It does look like cable rub doesn't it?

However there I'd expect it to be one of the rods that go to the transfer mechanism or perhaps one of the hand brake rods?

(I can't remember exactly how it all went together any more!)
 
LincolnSteve said:
View attachment 135727
View attachment 135728 View attachment 135729 View attachment 135730 View attachment 135731
Time to start on the engine.
I really didn't want to get too deep into it but I'm starting to feel a bit 'in for a penny'. While it's this accessible it might be best to have a shufty.
It ran ok before the strip down and I know it's a military refurb engine so it may not have done too many miles.
So looking at the smooth sides of the block and by the original duck egg blue colour that shows through the horrible hammerite green I places I reckon it's a 3 bearing crank. The top end has metric fastenings though so I think that is from a later 5 bearing engine. Is that possible? The oil filler cap is in the rocker cover and there is no filler neck going to the side of the block. It's a bit of a Heinz 57.
It has been standing on that pallet for a long while and although I have been putting a drop of oil down the spark plug holes and turning it over every now and then I do worry that it might be hiding some horrors.
I bought that engine stand ages ago. I had always fancied the idea of being able to spin the engine over to get access. Having said that it was easier to just leave the engine on the pallet until now.
I did my homework, asked questions and watched a lot of youtube but it was still very scary dangling the engine on the stand for the first time. Just 4 bolts supporting it from one end just didn't feel safe. I attached the gubbins a bit too low at first making it too top heavy. If I had left it like that the first time I tried to rotate it it would have gone over with such a rush it would have probably tipped the lot over. Attaching the bracket higher allows it to rotate smoothly especially as I greased everything really well when I assembled the stand.
Next it will be a really good clean before taking the sump of to see what sort of gunk has settled in it.
I should really take the head off and check the bores but there's a part of me that's thinking just bung it back in and keep your fingers crossed.
Core plugs and seals (rear crank) are a definite and a good flush out of the waterways.
I'm sure many other bits will crop up as we go.
Click to expand...
Hmmm engine.

I would never do this myself (I would have to dismantle) but if you reckon it runs well then "I" can see the temptation to just clean up the outside and paint it. That HMG engine paint available via the 'addocks or the paintman seems like nice stuff that will probably stick so long as you degrease and degrease.

I thought series 3 petrol engines were a different colour from the duck egg blue though

#####

The problem with taking engines to bits is that all of a sudden you need (bore) micrometers, honing oil and possible machining and deep pockets. If you want decent work done then even a series 3 Land Rover engine can cost a fair wedge: Have a look at the prices on the Turner's website for example.

Now obviously this is sticking your head in the sand if the engine is worn but it might do for now and perhaps get you through the next few summers?
 
GATSO said:
speedo cable seen it many times
Click to expand...
Of course! It's amazing to think what can happen with time. I was thinking something must have been rotating against the bell housing but it's just from rubbing against it. I must dig out the speedo cable because it will probably have corresponding wear on the outer.
 
Stretch said:
Hmmm engine.

I would never do this myself (I would have to dismantle) but if you reckon it runs well then "I" can see the temptation to just clean up the outside and paint it. That HMG engine paint available via the 'addocks or the paintman seems like nice stuff that will probably stick so long as you degrease and degrease.

I thought series 3 petrol engines were a different colour from the duck egg blue though

#####

The problem with taking engines to bits is that all of a sudden you need (bore) micrometers, honing oil and possible machining and deep pockets. If you want decent work done then even a series 3 Land Rover engine can cost a fair wedge: Have a look at the prices on the Turner's website for example.

Now obviously this is sticking your head in the sand if the engine is worn but it might do for now and perhaps get you through the next few summers?
Click to expand...

It certainly could end up being a massive can of worms to open the engine. Like @jamesmartin says it's daft to not take the head off though. I think it was running rich before the strip down began but I had so little time to get to know it it's hard to say. The plugs and exhaust ports on the head are black and sooty not oily so hopefully that is a good sign. There's only one way of knowing. It just can't be too expensive as most of the project budget has already gone. I can picture her indoors getting quite waspy if cash starts going missing from the household funds especially as we discovered recently that I might be being made redundant in the summer.
 
LincolnSteve said:
It certainly could end up being a massive can of worms to open the engine. Like @jamesmartin says it's daft to not take the head off though. I think it was running rich before the strip down began but I had so little time to get to know it it's hard to say. The plugs and exhaust ports on the head are black and sooty not oily so hopefully that is a good sign. There's only one way of knowing. It just can't be too expensive as most of the project budget has already gone. I can picture her indoors getting quite waspy if cash starts going missing from the household funds especially as we discovered recently that I might be being made redundant in the summer.
Click to expand...
For the sake of domestic harmony I'd include her indoors in the plan. Rebuild the carb perhaps - But get it done before the summer and the possible work related problems then at least you've got something you can use and "save on the road tax". Turn the Land Rover from being a bit of a financial drain to a post redundancy saviour!
 
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