Hiya,
Yup, I am ripping out the headunit, cd changer and amplifier. It makes it easier that this is the setup without the speakers amped in the doors. I am currently looking at a Sony MEX-BT3900u Head Unit,, with a Sony XM-GTX6040 600w 4 channel amplifier, and keeping the subwoofer amp and speakers as they are. I am just concerned about the heat build up in these amps if they are stuffed in behind that panel and sound proofing. That gives me plenty of power,, streaming bluetooth music, full phone integration, etc etc. Will let u know re amp.
Cheerz Richard

Hi All,
Thanks to helpful comments on here I am now listening to my new stereo. The Head Unit is a JVC KD-R926BT with three RCA rear outputs (front, rear and sub). It has full Bluetooth audio streaming, built in fone address book and manages multiple phones and a Cowon X7 MP3 player, simultaneously. The power amp is replaced by a JVC KS-AX3104, 4 channel power amp which has fitted under the sub woofer box in the chassis where the CD changer used to be. The biggest job, after Clarky and Daz put me right on location of bits was dealing with the 36 (!!!) wire loom in the rear. Fortunately there were enough twisted pairs (6) in the loom running from the head unit to the rear to deal with the output from the Head Unit ( I used the CD changer loom). In the end I removed the sub woofer amp from the sub box and ditched that as well and will fit another JVC amp in there to power the subs.
It sounds fantastic, the phone management and MP3 streaming works perfectly. THis model JVC Head Unit has something called time delay, so having measured from each speaker to the driver headrest and input that data you get an amazing "sound stage" effect.
All I need now is to source those plastic plates that fit each end of the Head Unit to cover up the previous mounting holes and also to buy the adaptor for the steering wheel controls.If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be grateful
If anyone is contemplating doing the same job I have kept all my wiring diagrams, colour codes and jumper diagrams with photos and I am happy to help.
Cheers

Richard

Richard, interested to know if your original system was a DSP one (only 1 amp in the rear) - if so, how did you deal with the crossover issue?

I'm not sure ditching the H/K sub amp is such a good idea, since that amp is perfectly matched to those speakers and should give you all the bass you'd ever want - unless you like ground-shaking, window-rattling bass like me!

I'm currently working on a way for folks to replace their broken DSP amps with an aftermarket HU whilst retaining their original HU, so would be very interested in seeing your procedure and pics, etc.

As for your steering wheel controls, the only thing I found suitable was sold over in the states- a 'two-box' solution that would have cost in the region of £100 shipped, and added a hell of alot of wiring, boxes and hassle behind the dash - hence I passed on it. I'll try and find it again...

Nexxia may be able to supply the dash blanking plates you're looking for.