GreenLove
New Member
FYI: I live in South Wales in the middle of nowhere and didn't want to bother anyone with this.
However, if anyone does fancy a laugh when I finally set fire to myself, and is passing through Carms next weekend, then please pop by. Kettle is always on - because I wired that myself and don't know what went wrong :doh:
BearDy89
Well-Known Member
GreenLove
New Member
nice to have a thanks, after all the shared advice and links.....
Sh*t! Sorry Bear. I thanked another member earlier and completely forgot to do the rounds - it's been a crazy thread since your last piece of useful advice.
I've printed your diagram off and will be using it as a guide, by the way.
All the best and thanks once again,
The Guilty Feeling Thread Starter
harlequin
New Member
BearDy89
Well-Known Member
haha its no problem just abit of banter.
hope you get it all sorted feel free to come bwck and ask if you get stuck
Sorry I meant post 16. Its been a long day
sounds more like it
give the guy a break things tht seem so simple to some are massivly uncomprehendable to others
GreenLove
New Member
Still waiting for parts to arrive but have come across a minor hiccup in the decision making process:
- The stereo (Sony mex-bt2500) spec mentions "CD receiver with built-in amplifier (17 watts RMS/52 peak x 4 channels)". Does this mean that each speaker can have a maximum output of 52W, or is that 52W combined?
- Also, been looking to buy the correct speaker wire, but not sure what amperage and gauge I'll need. I'm guessing that 16 gauge and 2.5A should do the trick, but wanted to be sure.
Chrisfrain2007
Active Member
RMS is the average output, peak is the max it can do, stick with RMS
GreenLove
New Member
Thanks Chris, will do. Just need to figure out where the speakers are going to go now - mine has never has a stereo installed, hence no holes under the dash for speakers to be fitted.
Station House
Well-Known Member
The RMS rating is about what the amp and speakers can handle continuously under normal everyday use.
The RMS rating is the most important when looking at any car stereo equipment, because it tell you what you can expect consistently from your equipment. The higher the RMS rating the cleaner and louder the sounds will be.
The Peak power rating is what the amplifier and CD player can produce and the speaker and subwoofers can handle during short burst of music. You can not and expect your car audio equipment to handle this kind of stress and power at all times.
The RMS rating is the most important when looking at any car stereo equipment, because it tell you what you can expect consistently from your equipment. The higher the RMS rating the cleaner and louder the sounds will be.
The Peak power rating is what the amplifier and CD player can produce and the speaker and subwoofers can handle during short burst of music. You can not and expect your car audio equipment to handle this kind of stress and power at all times.
BearDy89
Well-Known Member
Agree with all of the above to clarify it means
17W per Channel, So each speaker will recieve 17w RMS (continuous power)
But as has been mentioned the Amplifier onboard is capable of producing 52w in short bursts.
Although i wouldnt believe a word of that becuase the Amplifiers inside a headunit are tiny and if they were to produce 208W (52x4) it would be the worst quality and distorted music you had ever heard.
Always buy equipment based on RMS as station house suggests.
I do have to make a slight point that just because your stereo says 17w RMS doesnt mean that your speaker will produce that, that depends on your speakers. 17w is just what the headunit can deliver. You should always buy speakers that can handle around 25% more power than the rating of the amplifier. So that it doesnt blow them up!
somthing like 126AWG Speaker cable will be fine for your use,
Connects2 10m Blue Speaker Cable Pack 1.5mm (16AWG) | eBay
BearDy89
Well-Known Member
If you dont already have speakers.
I have found that these
PIONEER TS-G1711i 6"/6.5"-inch 170w 16.5/17cm Car Door Rear Deck Speakers | eBay
are really good for the money and give a nice crisp sound without the need for a amplifier (other than the one built in the headunit)
I have found that these
PIONEER TS-G1711i 6"/6.5"-inch 170w 16.5/17cm Car Door Rear Deck Speakers | eBay
are really good for the money and give a nice crisp sound without the need for a amplifier (other than the one built in the headunit)
GreenLove
New Member
Heres a quick crude drawing of what my set up is.
All the components have arrived but I've hit a mental snag, illustrated in the diagram below.
There's one feed coming from the relay that then somehow has be split into four seperate feeds, one for each fuse box slot in the new holder. Is it ok to join the 4 wires in the following way? Assume a standard big blue crimp would suffice?
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GreenLove
New Member
Got it. So, doing the above I'm essentially creating a series of spade based connections. Will give it a go.
Bear, out of interest, where did you fix the new 4 way fuse holder and relay? Somewhere near the main fuse box?
Thanks
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BearDy89
Well-Known Member
My main feed from the relay to the fuse box runs from the battery box, through a hole in the front of the seat box under the carpet, up the back of the old fuse box through the hole that the wiring harness runs and pops out behing the mud console.
It is fused in the battery box.
It is fused in the battery box.
GreenLove
New Member
Good idea. I only have a Land Rover stereo housing to hide it behind, but I think it'll be easier to place both the relay and fusebox in the battery compartment (near the top to avoid splashes) then run any fuse box routed device wire from there. Actually, does that mean I can run the relay earth to the earth on top of the battery using a ring/hoop connector?
The MudStuff dash looks good, but I don't have enough equipment at the moment to justify the spend.
Some pics would be great.
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