hello all,
did the steering up the other day, i replaced the ball joints on the longitudinal arm, got a new top relay arm and a new lower relay arm, and a ball joint for the lower relay arm,
everything is set to the right lengths, did the toe in while i was there.
but now when i drive down the road, and say turn a corner the wheel will return to the straight ahead position, but it will at times want to wander to the left or right and i have to pull to the opposite direction and at times its too much so i have to turn back to the other direction.
on bitumen roads where ruts from heavy vehicles the vehicle can be very tricky to control.
it was good a few weeks ago it would stay straight with very minimal input but now seems terrible,

would having it toed in to 2.4mm help eliminate this problem, would the drag link have something to do with this, or maybe the steering box maybe at fault.

any info would be greatly appreciated.

Tony.

possibly it's just working better and you're unaccustomed to that because all the worn components were taking up the slack - try not to fight it and see how you feel..................... More likely the box now needs adjusting because you've made everything else better................ ought to be a science but actually trial and error - good luck

waldamar said:

possibly it's just working better and you're unaccustomed to that because all the worn components were taking up the slack - try not to fight it and see how you feel..................... More likely the box now needs adjusting because you've made everything else better................ ought to be a science but actually trial and error - good luck

Click to expand...

ok i'll see how it goes over the next couple of weeks then.

Tony.

I would start with the simple thing and make sure there is oil in the relay. Next up I would be checking the preload on the swivels.

Sounds counter intuitive, but check that everything is free to move as it should .. too tight and steering binds.

kommer2013 said:

hello all,
did the steering up the other day, i replaced the ball joints on the longitudinal arm, got a new top relay arm and a new lower relay arm, and a ball joint for the lower relay arm,
everything is set to the right lengths, did the toe in while i was there.
but now when i drive down the road, and say turn a corner the wheel will return to the straight ahead position, but it will at times want to wander to the left or right and i have to pull to the opposite direction and at times its too much so i have to turn back to the other direction.
on bitumen roads where ruts from heavy vehicles the vehicle can be very tricky to control.
it was good a few weeks ago it would stay straight with very minimal input but now seems terrible,

would having it toed in to 2.4mm help eliminate this problem, would the drag link have something to do with this, or maybe the steering box maybe at fault.

any info would be greatly appreciated.

Tony.

Click to expand...

Think you may find it needs to toe out not in. Parallel to 1/16" toe out is normal on driven steerable wheels.

wammers said:

Think you may find it needs to toe out not in. Parallel to 1/16" toe out is normal on driven steerable wheels.

Click to expand...

series are rwd so toe in 2,4mm is max toe in

kommer2013 said:

hello all,
did the steering up the other day, i replaced the ball joints on the longitudinal arm, got a new top relay arm and a new lower relay arm, and a ball joint for the lower relay arm,
everything is set to the right lengths, did the toe in while i was there.
but now when i drive down the road, and say turn a corner the wheel will return to the straight ahead position, but it will at times want to wander to the left or right and i have to pull to the opposite direction and at times its too much so i have to turn back to the other direction.
on bitumen roads where ruts from heavy vehicles the vehicle can be very tricky to control.
it was good a few weeks ago it would stay straight with very minimal input but now seems terrible,

would having it toed in to 2.4mm help eliminate this problem, would the drag link have something to do with this, or maybe the steering box maybe at fault.

any info would be greatly appreciated.

Tony.

Click to expand...

you need to follow manual and ensure road wheels are straight when steering box is central ,angle on relay is correct between both arms etc,those are more important than rod lengths ,but most landies struggle with tram lines due to the width,not wider enough or narrow enough

thanks for all the tips, i might check the angles of the arms james and see if that is correct, anyway what is the go with the correct angle on the relay arms, does that effect how the vehicle turns or how it stays on the road??

kommer2013 said:

thanks for all the tips, i might check the angles of the arms james and see if that is correct, anyway what is the go with the correct angle on the relay arms, does that effect how the vehicle turns or how it stays on the road??

Click to expand...

any misadjustment is likely to have an effect,with toe in set correct with the road wheels in straight position with the correct angle on relay ,steering box should be central, box should have no play,swivel housings equally preloaded

hi tony most of things I was going to sugest have been covered by above posts hear are none or two thaughts tyre pressures are front tyres wearing level if back ones better swap wound get some one to rock steering whilst you closely watch realey leavers to relay shaft to make shore they ar still tight some pattern parts might tend to need re tightening again rough check tracking if wheels and tyres are matched get string rap round allwheels near center pull tight if much out you will see gap between string and part of front tyre also check track rod to track rod ball joint to make shore no movment at some time they altered size of ball joint thread if thread mis matched it may be possible for track rod and track rod ball joint to slip are all spring u bolts tight nobroken spring leaves if spring locating pin has sheared off it is possible for axel to move slightly out of line even if u bolts still tight uoy can measure distances betwee axles both sides to bake shore they match when turning steering with wheels off ground does it feel nice no tight spots how much free play on steering wheel with road wheels straight ahead have you adjusted steering box for minim amount of freeplay

And for good measure get the tyres balanced.

hi tony going back to start of trubel did yoy change steering box or did you take off stering box drop arm to make it easier to un do ball joints if original box could you have damaged getting off drop arm unless you used proper puller

8ha said:

hi tony going back to start of trubel did yoy change steering box or did you take off stering box drop arm to make it easier to un do ball joints if original box could you have damaged getting off drop arm unless you used proper puller

Click to expand...

the steering box was out of a wreck series 3, i think i installed it 6 to 7 years ago as i thought my original box was stuffed, i adjusted the drag link back to where i had it before i replaced the ball joints and took it for a run, and it seems much better then what is was,
i will keep an eye out and in 2 weeks ill check the tightness of bolts again.
im not running any damper at the moment, i had thought of fitting a return to centre damper to help keep it centred, but dont need one now. it may be on the cards one day though, i di get a new relay a bearmach 'made in india it has on the box', but i couldnt get the old one out so i just used the new arms i purchased, i was going to get a truck centre from near me to take it out but the man at the counter said it cost $120 an hour, he said it could take 45mins or 3 hours but he couldnt say as they dont know the condition, i dont have rot around the chassis where the relay is just a little surface rust, i have put the relay back in its packaging till i can think of a way to remove it or someone else has an idea, the spline had a little wear, and the splines on the old arms were really worn as they had kept on coming loose with-out my knowledge, it worried me at times the teeth on the spline would break off and id loose steering thats why i wanted to replace the relay and arms,
anyway i just spent around a $1000 on getting a new tank $423 and the filler hose $27 and cutting of rot from outriggers and welding new steel on $550 my old 16 gal tank had been leaking for the past 6 years but only dripped fuel when filled over half a tank.

i only paid $1000 for the land rover back in December 2004 sort of been spending money on it here and there, dont ask me how much i have spent though as i have no idea by know, if i were to make a number for work done it would be around $4000 or more excluding tyres. i have done roughly 50,000 miles in that time, and had her for almost a 11&1/2 years now, the previous owner 75yo if he was still alive would be shocked i have owned it so long as he would have though id only own it for a few years as i was only 19 and a half at the time, and you know what young people do, i liked it as its slow and i could not go fast or do burnouts in it, if i had kids i would probably teach them in an old land rover as they cant go fast and muck around, even today i still dont mind that its slow, but i get really annoyed with some cars and trucks as they think im not entitled to be on the road cause im slow, some times on a highway (not motorway) i could have up to 12 cars behind me, and do they get abusive. anyway enough of the story.

john s i had a puncture in the tube about a few weeks ago in the offside wheel had a new tube put in and balanced the right side has not been balanced as it was done when i did the tyre change a year or 2 ago,

im running MRF indian made cross ply tyres 7.50 x 16, im thinking of getting the rims galvanised as they get loose rust flakes inside and puncture the tubes.

Tony.

Crossplys have terrible road manners especially on rutted roads.
Get some radials on modern tyre technology leaves no reason to run on crossoplys and as the tyres are the only bit in contact with the ground getting better tyres would make sense.

thanks tony for I mfo hope allgoes well I had series 1 for 20 years iam a self employed hgv plant so used to tow armey trailer loaded up with oxy act welder tools etc in end I thought it was a bit much for old girl so isold her about 1 month later the tax exempt law came out ido miss her

109inches said:

Crossplys have terrible road manners especially on rutted roads.
Get some radials on modern tyre technology leaves no reason to run on crossoplys and as the tyres are the only bit in contact with the ground getting better tyres would make sense.

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the tyres im running are about AUD $230 or £122 each back say 10 years ago they were around $160 or £85, the cheapest radial i could get would be nearing $300 - £159.
i have been talking to the tyre man and he says what you say that radials are much better, and hes said it'll cost ya though.

they are a little worn i'll take a pic ture of the wheels and the steering gear and upload it, i'll probably try radials when i get some new tyres, see what i usually do is get the front tryes replaced with new tyres and have the new ones put on the rear and get the rear ones and have them put on the front as the rear ones hardly wear out, then i get about 2 years after they are moved to the front, tryes never seem to last on the front.

but thanks for the tip.

Tony.