M

Molelike

Member
Hi all
Read many post regarding this but none seen to help
I have a 1988 110 station wagon
Tyres are 275 70 16
Pressure set to 40
Had her just under a year and the steering was like wizards sleeve ( very floppy )
I have changed both shaft uj's the steering damper, track rod ends and the "drop link arm and ball joint" the arm under the box
And have adjusted the box so steering still free but shaft has very minimal movement by hand
I have even changed the steering wheel to a 12"
Although there was some improment at each part changed it is still a battle to stay in a straight line and I feel possible getting worse
Motorway driving is quite a worry and even backroads are becoming a challenge now
The steering box seems ok and there are no leaks
Could it still be the box ?
Wheels have no wobble when on jacks
Could shocks and springs cause this
There are no unusual noises
Some axle grease leaking from o/s front
Car sits a little lower on o/s
Any ideas would be great as I am running out of them and now getting reluctant to use the car
Thanks for reading
 
Hello,

Is 40 PSI correct? for all tyres?
Have you tried a slightly lower pressure?
Have you tried different wheels and tyres?

Cheers
 
Have you checked the front swivel pins.

And like he says^^^^^^^. Those tyres arent really the same as the 7.50 R16 that were standard. And I would let the front tyres down a bit, maybe about 30.
 
Check things like panhard and suspension bushes, if the axles aren't being kept in place properly then you can get all kinds of odd steering effects
 
Kwakerman said:
Check things like panhard and suspension bushes, if the axles aren't being kept in place properly then you can get all kinds of odd steering effects
Click to expand...

Panhard rod could be a good shout, Loose panhard rod can cause pretty alarming effects all on its own!
 
You say no wobble on wheels but are you sure the wheel bearings are ok? My td5 was all over the place and used the veer sideways when braking sometimes. Thought it was issue with steering, turned out all 4 wheel bearings were shot. 4 new bearings and drives like a new un ( well almost cos it is pretty old But at least I don't have to constantly adjust steering to keep it in a straight line now).

Also what width rim do you have your tyres on? I had 235's on standard 5.5" rims and switching to 7" rims defo helped the road holding as the tyres sat squarer on the road. I reckon 40 psi seems a bit hard as well cos once fyres warm up they will prob be approaching 50psi.
 
Other thing to say (and maybe you know this anyway) is that Land Rover steering is naturally very vague so if you are not used to them you can find them a bit disconcerting when compared to normal cars. You have to get used to not gripping the steering wheel too tight and just let it find its own way.
 
Thanks for all your replies
Will try a lower pressure first hope it works as nice easy fix
Will let you know what happens
Lower pressure never even crossed my mind
 
Turboman said:
Have you checked the front swivel pins.

And like he says^^^^^^^. Those tyres arent really the same as the 7.50 R16 that were standard. And I would let the front tyres down a bit, maybe about 30.
Click to expand...

I think the swivels make a massive difference to how a 90/110/Def/Disco/RRC drives.. While they may show no play during a quick MoT-style inspection, the reality is they're probably too loose when the weight of the vehicle is on them and crashing over a rough surface.
They should have some drag when adjusted correctly; I spent ages setting the swivels on my old Disco 1 and it felt like a new car afterwards. Big tyres/ lift kits etc just magnify the issues I think.
 
David_Cooper said:
I think the swivels make a massive difference to how a 90/110/Def/Disco/RRC drives.. While they may show no play during a quick MoT-style inspection, the reality is they're probably too loose when the weight of the vehicle is on them and crashing over a rough surface.
They should have some drag when adjusted correctly; I spent ages setting the swivels on my old Disco 1 and it felt like a new car afterwards. Big tyres/ lift kits etc just magnify the issues I think.
Click to expand...

+1 I changed my swivel pins a couple of month ago. No noticeable play when all connected up and wheels on, but there was quite bit of play in the top pins once I had the wheels off and steering disconnected from the hub, which was noticeable when driving.
 
True that incorrect swivel pre load causes some vagueness and can result in a tank slapper type steering wobble at 50-55 MPH. But the front tyre over pressure i would suggest is the biggest cause in this case, if the steering otherwise fine, but just feels vague. Any vehicle with over inflated front tyres will have lighter vague steering because the contact patch is reduced. .
 
Last edited:
David_Cooper said:
I think the swivels make a massive difference to how a 90/110/Def/Disco/RRC drives.. While they may show no play during a quick MoT-style inspection, the reality is they're probably too loose when the weight of the vehicle is on them and crashing over a rough surface.
They should have some drag when adjusted correctly; I spent ages setting the swivels on my old Disco 1 and it felt like a new car afterwards. Big tyres/ lift kits etc just magnify the issues I think.
Click to expand...

Absolutely, and on the series they are descended from. Really worn pins and bushes can make any of em almost undriveable. We used to set the drag on em by pulling the housing with a spring balance.

I always have standard tyres and suspension. It stands to reason for me that the highly qualified and experienced engineer who designed the vehicle probably specified what he thought would work best! :)

I would make an exception to the rule for vehicles intended for extreme motorsport, like comp safari or modified trials. Myself, I have no interest in such things, and never have.
 
Turboman said:
It stands to reason for me that the highly qualified and experienced engineer who designed the vehicle probably specified what he thought would work best! :)
.
Click to expand...
That made me smirk, is that the same designer that forces you to stick your right arm out of the window, have a dent in your left leg from the handbrake, wet floors because of leaks.........need I go on? :D
 
Kwakerman said:
That made me smirk, is that the same designer that forces you to stick your right arm out of the window, have a dent in your left leg from the handbrake, wet floors because of leaks.........need I go on? :D
Click to expand...

The reason you are sat against the door is so you can hook your elbow over it, and lean out to see exactly where you are putting the front wheel when on steep sideslopes. It is a design feature! :)

I have never had any problem with the handbrake lever in my 90, series ones are awkward, but I cant remember them contacting any part of my body.

And it is likely that the original design was capable of repelling water on a new vehicle. Rubber shrivel and sealants perish.
 
Turboman said:
Panhard rod could be a good shout, Loose panhard rod can cause pretty alarming effects all on its own!
Click to expand...

Yep check these, I had one badly worn and it gave alarming symptoms especially when it made me steer when I braked.

I would suggest swivel pins and swivel preload, and all the bushings at the front need a close check
 
Turboman said:
I have never had any problem with the handbrake lever in my 90, series ones are awkward, but I cant remember them contacting any part of my body.
Click to expand...
Might be that we have slightly different body builds:rolleyes: but my left leg generally rests on the lever on long journeys, must be others out there with the same issue..................................................anyone?
 
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