Datatek
Well-Known Member
The steering on the P38 is an antique design and very touchy IMO
wil2813
Well-Known Member
+1 so true everything has to be perfect in order to set it up properly
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
excelent if you know someone with a decent press or a bush extraction set , it will make your life so much easyer.Just to update on this as promised.
My independant has diagnosed worn Radius Arm bushes on the front and a worn Front drag link ball joint, going to have a crack at these myself
DB
Or you can do it the hard way by burning the rubber and removing the centre of the bush and using a hacksaw to put to slices in the outer collar.you will need to lower the front anti roll bar . To get at a set of bolts in the radial arm .
And a decent rachet strap helps with getting the big 27 mm nut back on with the less forgiving new rubber on the end of the radial arm .
Hope you drag link is the removable joint or else its a new drag link bar I'm afraid but they are not that expensive .
And finally polybushes or original are as good as each other for everyday use athough the Polly's are easy
Just to update on this as promised.
My independant has diagnosed worn Radius Arm bushes on the front and a worn Front drag link ball joint, going to have a crack at these myself
DB
The TRE will be the one that's fixed to the drag link and can't be changed very likely. If you change the drag link make sure you follow the correct procedure for refitting or it really will be all over the place. Radius arm bushes unless they are totally and utterly knackered won't cause steering wander.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Or once you have burnt out the rubber from the bush you can run a bead of weld around the inside of the outer collar and it will drop out when cooled
Thank you for the tips gents - my intention is to buy a good pair of second hand Radius Arms and then get them powder coated and have some poly bushes pressed in and it will then be a straight swap when I come to do the job.
I wil order a drag link assembly today - any reccomendations on where to get one? I am assuming that there is only one variant of the Drag Link Assy?
Darren
I wil order a drag link assembly today - any reccomendations on where to get one? I am assuming that there is only one variant of the Drag Link Assy?
Darren
Here Lemforder is OEM. Steering - Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
When you fit it strip it first and grease the threads up with Copraslip.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
The Radius arm bushes have plastic collars and just run a drill down them and replace with poly bushes as the plastic ones are easily damaged when putting them in.
when I did mine the front bolts had seized in the spacers and had to cut them out with angle grinder
Did not have any problems with putting nuts on the end
I had pirellies on mine and it was the bigest mistake i ever made.they tramlined and sidewalls fractured and wore out in 15000 miles.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
yes I just pressed mine out I'm to used to doing defenders steel bushes can be a bugger and rust in
you won't need to press Polly bushes in , well only with your fingers
Quick update.
After changing the tie bar and steering link (so that i'd have new track rod ends all round) there was an improvement, but it wasn't the biggie.
Then I changed the steering damper - again improvement but not the biggie
On saturday I managed to get enough time to do the upper and lower balljoints on the offside - wow what an improvement. The bottom one was, lets just say loose and leave it at that
Saturday coming the near side upper and lower are going to be done (if I hadn't had a teensy accident pressing in the lower one on the off side I would have done both - moral - learn how to use the press before cocking up!) and the panhard rod bushes are being changed too.
Once i've done that, the only original part in this story will be the steering box, but based on the fact that before saturday I worried at speeds over 40mph, and yesterday I tootled along the A2 at the required limits - i'm a happy boy.
thanks all
GrnOval
After changing the tie bar and steering link (so that i'd have new track rod ends all round) there was an improvement, but it wasn't the biggie.
Then I changed the steering damper - again improvement but not the biggie
On saturday I managed to get enough time to do the upper and lower balljoints on the offside - wow what an improvement. The bottom one was, lets just say loose and leave it at that
Saturday coming the near side upper and lower are going to be done (if I hadn't had a teensy accident pressing in the lower one on the off side I would have done both - moral - learn how to use the press before cocking up!) and the panhard rod bushes are being changed too.
Once i've done that, the only original part in this story will be the steering box, but based on the fact that before saturday I worried at speeds over 40mph, and yesterday I tootled along the A2 at the required limits - i'm a happy boy.
thanks all
GrnOval
Musicmaker
Active Member
EeEK - yes, yes you did, but you can't blame me for baulking at first
Having bought myself a nice shiny balljoint service kit the job turned out to be less than scary - nice and easy to press them out and back in.
Think my ball joint's might need replaced, Is there a special tool to remove and replace the ball joints?
EeEk
Well-Known Member
Aye its not the best of jobs....
out - Oxy/Acy burner and a big hammer works just fine
In - ball joints in the freezer until the last second. a little heat on the axle and the ball joints just drop in. You even have to hold them in place until they expand to take a hold
No puller required
At least now youll also be able to tell folk to forget all the other fit this, fit that, tyre pressure/tyre suggestions and get to the point....fit ball joints it will completly transform your rangerover!!! Only thing is nobody will belive you!!
out - Oxy/Acy burner and a big hammer works just fine
In - ball joints in the freezer until the last second. a little heat on the axle and the ball joints just drop in. You even have to hold them in place until they expand to take a hold
No puller required
At least now youll also be able to tell folk to forget all the other fit this, fit that, tyre pressure/tyre suggestions and get to the point....fit ball joints it will completly transform your rangerover!!! Only thing is nobody will belive you!!
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Here is a puller if you need one
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=200984381312
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=200984381312
Musicmaker
Active Member
Cheers Grit Valve
