IMG_20210811_215520264[1].jpg
I saw that method of doing it and didn't really like the idea. I did mine more like the manual says with a spacer underneath the shaft and pressing it together with one bush inside the housing. I just made a slotted plate with two holes drilled in it to do the pushing and used a tube pressing on this in my small press to push the spring in to slip on the second bush.
This was quick and felt a lot safer:D
 
BruceB said:
View attachment 245419 I saw that method of doing it and didn't really like the idea. I did mine more like the manual says with a spacer underneath the shaft and pressing it together with one bush inside the housing. I just made a slotted plate with two holes drilled in it to do the pushing and used a tube pressing on this in my small press to push the spring in to slip on the second bush.
This was quick and felt a lot safer:D
Click to expand...
That seems safer, I just need to get it out of the chassis to do it that way, otherwise it needs to be the scary method…

out of interest, I have two sets of bushes. Both seemingly from Land Rover packaging, but look quite different. Which should I go for or is it likely to not really matter…
53DEB645-DC33-497C-A232-45EC78BCF017.jpeg
 
I got mine from Blanchards as genuine NOS and they are the colour of the darker ones, if that helps.
Also something to be aware of, I filled mine with oil last night to the top and tonight the oil level have obviously seeped into bushes etc and was very low. I had to top it up quite a bit as the oil was lower than the top of the bushes.
Something to check it you just fill it up and don't leave it for a few hours before putting in the bolts
 
+1 for the bottom bushes. If you fill up before you put the bronze thrust washer in you will find the oil just runs right in. I ended up with too much oil and when I put the thrust washer in it pushed the oil back up the bolt holes.
 
Brilliant thanks for that, they do seem “better” but wasn’t sure. Maybe they are pre oiled…

another thought, do I need to use a thread lock sealant for the bottom bolt that acts a a drain hole? It would seem to make sense otherwise the oil will just run out past the thread maybe, or does tightening it up provide sufficient seal?

cheers
 
IMG_20210813_224654749[1].jpg
I didn't bother and mine doesn't seem to be leaking, there's a flat washer under it anyway. I suppose it would not do any harm. Mine is ready to go into the chassis.
 
One thing I noticed on my nice clean and painted relay was the plate that bolts to the chassis would no longer fit. The machined bit on the bottom of the relay is supposed to be paint free and the plate wouldn't go on due to the paint on both the relay and plate. Oh well out with the sand paper and it all fits again. Guess I will be coating in a generous coat of grease.
 
I have ordered a reinforced plate for the bottom as my new chassis seems to have a larger tube than the original chassis did. I am awaiting a CNC machined strengthened plate which I will use to stop the bottom wiggling around in the hole!
 
Interestingly enough when I trial fitted the relay I realised that the end plates are a larger diameter than the tube itself by a 1mm or so. Since the instructions on fitting it are that it should be a "drive fit" then if the end cap goes through the body would be loose in the tube.
Still fiddling around with it to ensure its solid in the chassis, may have to pack with shims.
 
Did anyone measure their old spring? I measured mine because I came across a rebuild that had a spec for them. I think new was about 185mm and my old one was 164mm.
 
I can't remember the measurement but the old one was below the minimum acceptable length according to the service manual, the new one was about half as long again and at the top of the acceptable range
 
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