jamesmartin said:

or use the proper size bolt but set screw type with a nut to adjust ie lock the screw off, no problem with a blind hole then

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That was one of my original thoughts, but I'd have to identify the bolt/thread sizes first, of course. The other angle on that, assuming there's enough thread, is stick a nut on the existing bolt to act as a set spacer, but again, I'd need to know the bolt size and thread. Time, I think, to make with the GT-85 when I get home after work tonight!

Quick update. Got home from work at 2a.m., and bloody freezing though it was out there, nipped back out for a few moments and blasted one of the bolts with some GT-85. I'll let that sink in overnight, and have a quick go at it before I got to work on Sunday night.

Here's a photo of the standard lockstop FTC5151 courtesy of the very useful Britcar website. May help you work out the thread pitch if you still want it.

Well, that's the length of the ones in my wagon, so it looks like I'll be trying the washers trick first

Thanks for the heads up

Right, solution time.

Turns out I didn't need an extended bolt, washers, or a longer bolt. The bolts unscrewed (with difficulty, they were in there well tight) by the roughly 5mm required to do the job until sometime in the new year (-ish), when I'll lay my mitts on some wheel spacers for a more permanent solution.

FYI, spraying the both liberally with GT-85 three nights on the trot may well have saved me from shearing them - they're a very tight fit by the feel of it, and smacking them with a hammer a couple of times to shock them loose, then using a foot and a half long breaker bar, before laying on with the socket set was the only way to get them started even then. It's interesting to note that they did NOT want to come out all the way - the threads seemed to tighten up again the further out they were unscrewed, so it's just as well, I suspect, that it was only 5mm of additional length that was needed. Any more, and I think I may well have been in trouble! I've applied some threadlock to 'em in the mean time, and later on, once the threadlock has has a chance to set, I'll paint a thin white strip along one side face of the bolts, threads, and a bit of the steering knuckle, to let me periodically check in case they move.

Many thanks for all the comments above, they were very handy

RogerStenning said:

Folks,

Failing this, does anyone know the size of thread inside the bolt cavity?

Roger

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For anyone who finds this thread later looking for advice, the bolt thread is M12 x 1.75. And drill + heat + an extractor bit will get that snapped off bolt right out.

Ask me how I know.

I find this article very bizarre, I cant see why it had so much posts and why the originator Roger Stenning even thought Land rover would go out of the way use a secret thread for a vey mundane job, they are a mix of UNF and METRIC so why would the go to the expense of tapping and installing a none –common bolt, and at the end all was needed was to remove it and try a couple of nuts to see which one fitted.....what happen to common sense it’s not rocket science is it

There was a technical bulletin issued for the D2 steering stops but I can’t find it online. It’s Tech Bulletin 0026 (CDS Ref. L8867bu).

I had the 29mm ones and it turned like a boat. According to Rovers North’s website, FTC5151 was expected to ship in 9 - 20 days. So for either side, I just got an M12 bolt, a nut and a jam nut and their combined length is almost exactly 23mm. Turns on a dime now.

Ansley a common sense approach to solving the problem,, and if needed you could alway add a washer or 2

frostythor said:

Ansley a common sense approach to solving the problem,, and if needed you could alway add a washer or 2

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Common Sense is in short supply these days. Even I run out of it on occasion !!

I found this website on improving D2 turning radius with bolts and nuts as mentioned above:
https://customerhelp.co.za/automotive-repairs/improving-the-turning-circle-disco-2.html