Hex Head Set Screws I think you'll find they are called
A bolt is shanked as you quite rightly state....
Setbolts is easier to understand. You only call them that to make your tech details longer.
Setbolts is easier to understand. You only call them that to make your tech details longer.
You should know me well enough by now that I am the King of the long, rambling, description......Setbolts is easier to understand. You only call them that to make your tech details longer.
If I was paid by the word for writing an O&M or Product Assembly and Build Document...I'd be fecking millionaire!!!
Verbose is often used when I am described at work!
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
You should know me well enough by now that I am the King of the long, rambling, description......
If I was paid by the word for writing an O&M or Product Assembly and Build Document...I'd be fecking millionaire!!!
Verbose is often used when I am described at work!
Is that also known as Motor mouth?
If I was paid by the word for writing an O&M or Product Assembly and Build Document...I'd be fecking millionaire!!!
Verbose is often used when I am described at work!
Is that also known as Motor mouth?
My 5/8ths socket split open getting the head bolts off. That was fun. Metric was close enough though and we got away with it. Not risking it for tightening though.
The manifold bolts aren't M8. Same size as M10 but the thread isn't metric.
According to Landrover they are. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ERR4961 If the ones you have are 10 mm ish but not metric thread they have to be 3/8" UNC.
Regarding the heat shield problem - I'll be doing my HG's soon and was wondering about heat wrap instead of the accursed things, but I read somewhere that it can cause problems with corrosion and raised heat at the exhaust ports, but then I found a few reports of people just leaving the shields off altogether . . . https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/leaving-the-heat-shields-off.84736/#post-850691
Opinions from the experts?
Opinions from the experts?
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Iv had no problems since doing mine iv been wrapping motorbike exhausts for years so was a no brained doing the RR manifolds if the heat wrap can stop my legs from getting melted that's good enuf for me
Attachments
I was just going to ask this myself Wammers. I've double checked Microcat and it does say M8, but the ones on my heads are not that. They're about 9.5mm diameter, and none of the metric taps I have fit the threads at all.
Do you know if the threads changed with the Thor engine? Although Micro cat does say the M8 is correct for all versions, the bolts on mine are not.
How much will I need to do each manifold. Is there any brand you'd recommend? I've got to order it tomorrow to get it here in time.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
I just got mine off the bay make sure they come with metal zip ties think I got 2x 10 MTR packs had a bit left over but not a lot
I wondered that. They've done a very very neat job of it if they have. I think the head gaskets were original though, you can see the Land Rover and Elring logos from the gasket kind of embossed in to the head. The manifold bolts were very rusty, and wasn't much bihex head on a few of them to get the 12mm (or whatever is should have been) bihex socket on, so I think they'd been there a looong time. I think the fact we polished a couple means they should have had an AF socket on them, and not the 12mm we used.
Looking around on the internet there's quite a lot of talk about them being 3/8 UNC, so I suspect it's a typo in Micro cat. If they are M8 they'd be the only metric fastenings on the whole engine, which isn't likely.... although it is a Land Rover so anything is possible.
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You might get lucky with the heatshields. The LH side wasn't that bad as access was reasonable. It is the bottom ones that corrode worst but you can get an angle grinder either side of the knackered ones and they drop out. The RH side has the steering intermediate shaft, starter and solenoid and airbag mount all very close and access is tricky. Add that to corroded bolts and it starts to get nasty fast.
Hotter exhaust ports certainly sounds plausible. The shields do let plenty of air circulate. On the other hand that exhaust is the real killer in the job. Literally hours wasted trying to get it off.
If you want, you can have my old ones if yours are rusted too much. The LHS one is not in bad nick. The RHS isn't too bad, it's a bit bent up from where I was hammering it apart with a large screwdriver, but you might bend it back into shape easily. They'd both need penny washers to repair the bolt holes that have rusted a bit too much. But if you want them they're yours.
Personally I think once you've gone through the pain of getting them off, you never want to see them again, and think heat wrap or no shields at all are the only way forward!
9.5 mm is 3/8" so they will be 3/8" UNC threads on yours. However there is no direct equivalent AF spanner size to 12 mm. 7/16" would be to small and 1/2" would be to large.
Usually but not always. Special bolts have differing head sizes for differing reasons.
Very true!!
BAE were very proud of saying that Jaguar was their first all metric A/C when in fact most of the fasteners on is were Unified nuts and bolts. Just converted to metric measurement on the drawings. It's amazing how many 4.8 mm Etc bolts there were holding the thing together.
