Evening, Hoping for some info off you guys. Basically I've managed to drive around Bradford for 30 years without getting hit by Golfs and Audi's. Unfortunately in june I couldn't dodge it and it ran full on into my front wheel. it pushed my axle across bending the panhard rod. I've put a new Panhard rod and am going to put a new HD steering and drag link on this week. before the crash my steering wheel was where it should be, after the crash it ended up a quarter way round, Even after fitting the new Panhard the steering wheel was still in the same position as after the crash. I know I can adjust the steering wheel but was wondering what could have altered the steering wheel position. I'm hoping the steering box is ok cause I only just put a recon one on. I've been driving it for a couple of months and it's not like it was pre accident but i'm hoping it could be down to steering and drag link which I haven't replaced yet. Any ideas please ?
 
Evening, Hoping for some info off you guys. Basically I've managed to drive around Bradford for 30 years without getting hit by Golfs and Audi's. Unfortunately in june I couldn't dodge it and it ran full on into my front wheel. it pushed my axle across bending the panhard rod. I've put a new Panhard rod and am going to put a new HD steering and drag link on this week. before the crash my steering wheel was where it should be, after the crash it ended up a quarter way round, Even after fitting the new Panhard the steering wheel was still in the same position as after the crash. I know I can adjust the steering wheel but was wondering what could have altered the steering wheel position. I'm hoping the steering box is ok cause I only just put a recon one on. I've been driving it for a couple of months and it's not like it was pre accident but i'm hoping it could be down to steering and drag link which I haven't replaced yet. Any ideas please ?
a recon box on prior to the crash? id think either the lower steering shaft is twisted or slipped a few splines or box is damaged, id probably want to replace both
 
a recon box on prior to the crash? id think either the lower steering shaft is twisted or slipped a few splines or box is damaged, id probably want to replace both
yes I fit the box pre accident, I was hoping the panhard rod had taken the impact and maybe moved the drop arm a few splines. the steering isn't smooth as it should be.
 
I would be inclined to check carefully the radius arms and their mountings on both the axle and the chassis, especially seeing as the axle got pushed far enough sideways to bend the panhard rod.
I'd also get the tracking, if not the whole geometry checked out too, there could be some distortions on the trackrod and the trackrod ends after such a sideways shunt.
 
I would be inclined to check carefully the radius arms and their mountings on both the axle and the chassis, especially seeing as the axle got pushed far enough sideways to bend the panhard rod.
I'd also get the tracking, if not the whole geometry checked out too, there could be some distortions on the trackrod and the trackrod ends after such a sideways shunt.
On that thought, they may need to have the chassis alignment checked on a jig, my former Rangie Classic got clobbered by a Ford sedan fair on the RH front wheel transversely, the impact of which managed to knock the front section of the chassis across towards the LH side, had to have it checked and re positioned on a body works jig by hydraulic porto powers.
If you think about it the collision generates enormous forces, like a large hammer hit.
 
Well if they ran into you, why didn't you claim on insurance ? You wouldn't be skint either - now you're having to pay for someone else's cock up!
As above, get the chassis checked - I've seen bent chassis from low impact, sub 10mph.
 
On that thought, they may need to have the chassis alignment checked on a jig, my former Rangie Classic got clobbered by a Ford sedan fair on the RH front wheel transversely, the impact of which managed to knock the front section of the chassis across towards the LH side, had to have it checked and re positioned on a body works jig by hydraulic porto powers.
If you think about it the collision generates enormous forces, like a large hammer hit.
I've had a straight edge on side of chassis and it is still in line, The force bent the panhard and buckled the wheel so still hoping that's the parts that took the full impact.
 
Well if they ran into you, why didn't you claim on insurance ? You wouldn't be skint either - now you're having to pay for someone else's cock up!
As above, get the chassis checked - I've seen bent chassis from low impact, sub 10mph.
The insurance were going to write mine off based on the age of it and didn't have the option of buy back, So I thought id repair it myself as I cant be bothered dealing with companies that try their best to get out of paying, And also thought my insurance would go up if I claimed. So I didn't claim anything yet my Insurance as doubled even though I didn't claim of anybody, And it wasn't even my fault. Suppose it's my own fault for living in Bradford amongst this lot who don't even take driving tests.
 
You always have the buy back option, it's the law!

Unless that is the insurance assessor thinks it's too dangerous to go back on the road in which case you don't?

Possibly he was right
 
You always have the buy back option, it's the law!

Unless that is the insurance assessor thinks it's too dangerous to go back on the road in which case you don't?

Possibly he was right

I always understood if it was a third party at fault and their insurance was paying for it, then you could refuse to accept a write off and state you wanted it returned to as before the accident condition. Maybe that has changed.

Cheers
 
I've had a straight edge on side of chassis and it is still in line, The force bent the panhard and buckled the wheel so still hoping that's the parts that took the full impact.
A tad optimistic I reckon. As others have stated - get it on a jig and check all aspects of alignment.:(
As soon as you mentioned it to the Insurance company it becomes a claim - whether you pursue it or not. :eek:
Oh, and welcome to 3 years of countless phone calls "regarding the accident that you were in....." :D
 
I've had a straight edge on side of chassis and it is still in line, The force bent the panhard and buckled the wheel so still hoping that's the parts that took the full impact.
That may not give you the true picture and for safety's sake, once you have it back to where you think it should be, it will be advisable to have the axle alignments etc checked on a proper machine.
Your vehicle could be well left with a situation effecting its handling, braking and tyre wear, in other words maybe unroadworthy, if then the vehicle is involved in another future accident involving serious injury with your vehicle at fault this time, it leaves you in a rather vulnerable position personally.
A clean bill of health on your repairs would give you a bit of peace of mind.
 
The motor still drives in a straight line with no wander, If the chassis was bent would that force the motor to wander ?

But it doesn't drive in a straight line as it used to. You've already stated that the steering wheel is a quarter turn off what it used to be and you're unsure about the actual cause.
 
But it doesn't drive in a straight line as it used to. You've already stated that the steering wheel is a quarter turn off what it used to be and you're unsure about the actual cause.
Sorry I didn't put it across well, The steering is a quarter turn where it used to be, But the car still drives in a straight line.
 
Geometrically, the relationship between the axles and the main fore/aft chassis members should form a rectangle; chassis members being parallel, axles are parallel and the angles between the chassis members to the axles then being right angles; 90 degrees. Chassis members might be engineered to taper inwards or outwards either side of the centre line by design, but the rectangle principle still holds good.
A twisted chassis could result in what's called a "parallelogram" where the chassis members along with the axles are all parallel, as in the above case, but the angles between the axles and the chassis are no longer at right angles.
This would result in the vehicle moving in an apparent straight line, but the rear wheels will not be running directly behind the front wheels which might be apparent in the bodywork appearing to "crab along" slightly.
After the front axle has been bashed out of line, goodness only knows what other damage has been done, damage which only a proper alignment jig, not just a straight edge can pick up.
Only when you're sure that the chassis is straight and there are no other nasties like unseen cracks, tears or other weakened spots can you start on rebuilding the steering.
 
I always understood if it was a third party at fault and their insurance was paying for it, then you could refuse to accept a write off and state you wanted it returned to as before the accident condition. Maybe that has changed.

Cheers


Used to be but too many dangerous motors were put back on the road so it was changed, you can buy cat c and d I think but nothing worse.
 
Geometrically, the relationship between the axles and the main fore/aft chassis members should form a rectangle; chassis members being parallel, axles are parallel and the angles between the chassis members to the axles then being right angles; 90 degrees. Chassis members might be engineered to taper inwards or outwards either side of the centre line by design, but the rectangle principle still holds good.
A twisted chassis could result in what's called a "parallelogram" where the chassis members along with the axles are all parallel, as in the above case, but the angles between the axles and the chassis are no longer at right angles.
This would result in the vehicle moving in an apparent straight line, but the rear wheels will not be running directly behind the front wheels which might be apparent in the bodywork appearing to "crab along" slightly.
After the front axle has been bashed out of line, goodness only knows what other damage has been done, damage which only a proper alignment jig, not just a straight edge can pick up.
Only when you're sure that the chassis is straight and there are no other nasties like unseen cracks, tears or other weakened spots can you start on rebuilding the steering.
Both front wheels are equal distance from the wing so hopefully the chassis is fine, But I will get it all checked professionally to make sure it's ok. I've sort of had a good look my self and the front wheels do look in line with the back wheels but obviously it needs checking in the proper manner. The steering does feel a little lumpy when turning but was hoping that could be down to the steering and drag link which i'm going to do at the weekend.
 

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