Bantam1

Well-Known Member
Had an annoying leak on my steering box since I got it. The leak was from the seal to the output shaft but the unit looked newish, possibly refurbished.
Anyway, I've been busy today, not only got my home made press to change the ball joints on the lhs but I have cured the leaking steering box.
How?
Took drop arm off found no dust seal in place so removed cir-clip, started the car and turned steering wheel a few times until the pressure spat out the main seal.
Found the unit was a recon but a poor one it seem. Paint on the shaft where the seal needs to sit so I cleaned it all up. Also suspect the seal was completely inappropriate as it seemed to be solid rubber with no lips at all.
Perfect! :D
 
You definitely saved some money. Those steering boxes aren't cheap! Mine has been leaking for some time now. I might take go ahead and take it apart but I don't want to bugger it up and make it worse.
 
You definitely saved some money. Those steering boxes aren't cheap! Mine has been leaking for some time now. I might take go ahead and take it apart but I don't want to bugger it up and make it worse.
If you have good steering and just a leak on the high pressure side then changing the seals wont bugger anything up.
You can do it in-situ, as I did, anyway.
I gave the shaft and recess a good clean with scotchbrite and fitted new seals, washer and circlip.
The nuts a 40mm and tight; I used a windy gun to take off and put back.
I also marked the shaft and arm with a centre punch to make sure they went back exactly the same position.
 
Bugger, its leaking again. Been a few weeks but its started to leak again.
Spent afternoon under the car, removed drop arm again and managed to pop the dust seal off with a small screw driver.
Cleaned everything up and watched with the motor running and someone moving steering side to side. A very small amount (drip) was passing the main seal but not shaft to seal side it was the housing to seal side and in one specific place, so I took the circlip, washer and seal out to inspect the housing in that area.
From what I could tell there is a score mark in the housing at that exact position, I'm fairly certain its not a crack because I can't see anything externally.
Gave it a rubbing with emery paper but still can be seen. Plan is now to araldite the area, reface it and put another seal in.
Theory as to why it took a few weeks to show a leak is that the drips built up behind the dust seal, then started to push the dust seal until eventually it dislodged enough to let the fluid out.
 
Here is a quick video of what I believe to be the issue.
I used an endoscope which produced excellent quality AVI files but conversion to MP4 seems to lose clarity.
Anyway the scratch mark I believe is causing the leak is at the top of the picture.
 
OK I have now replaced with new seals again.
I have some epoxy putty (steel repair) that I pressed into the mark, scraped down and then fettled in with emery paper.
When I put the new seal in I also put some RTV gasket paste around the housing, a) to lubricate the seal going in and b) to help with the sealing to the housing.
Topped up and bled the system and all seems OK again at the moment.
Lets see.
 
Had a chat about this yesterday. Mine is leaking had new seals 4 years ago. So new box needed. Recon or brand new 400 or 700.

There is a shortage of decent used boxes for recon as well
 
Had a chat about this yesterday. Mine is leaking had new seals 4 years ago. So new box needed. Recon or brand new 400 or 700.

There is a shortage of decent used boxes for recon as well
Is yours leaking from around the shaft or the casing side of the seal?
If you can get the dust seal off and out of the way as I did, you can then clean it all up and look where it is leaking from.
I believe if its from the shaft then its either worn (replace with new seal) or the shaft has an issue possibly within the box bearings (replace the box).
If its from the housing side, as mine seems to be, then its the seal damaged (replace the seal) or its the housing damaged (possibly fettle up and replace the seal or if not replace the box).
I'm hoping the fettling and replacing of the seal sorts it but if I need a new box it will be a new one not a reconditioned one. I would probably strip and recondition the old box myself but if the housing is marked it would need machining.
 
The repair people think it is replace time as they have done lots. Their main job is restoring utility land rovers. Many for export
 

Similar threads