border · Apr 4, 2021

Stripping Chassis for shot blasting. trying to get this arm off, have removed bolts top and bottom , it wont budge yet , just noticed these other smaller 4 bolts will take them out later .
Is there a knack to this or will I have to use brute force ?

marjon · Apr 4, 2021

Dont think you should undo the 4 little bolts, think there's a springy surprise behind it

.

Think plenty of release agent and brute force or have a read of this. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ll-ground-up-resto.359053/page-9#post-5060688

Good luck.

J

lynall · Apr 4, 2021

Search for steering idler removal or removing steering idler.

DO NOT and I cannot emphasise this enough, remove the 4 small bolts top and bottom.

Blackburn · Apr 4, 2021

The four bolts holding the lower ring can be removed , not the lower part of the relay ie the bit the shaft comes through.
The relay gets crud between the cahssis and it withe the retainer off you can scrape some of it out with a small knife or broken hacksaw blade . Diesel will soften the crud.
You can turn the chassis upside down and let it soak in.

border · Apr 4, 2021

lynall said:
Search for steering idler removal or removing steering idler.

DO NOT and I cannot emphasise this enough, remove the 4 small bolts top and bottom.

Glad I've just checked in on my phone, was just about to have a go at removing those bolts. It's normal for me to fu!! things up that dam thing will still not budge yet though, gonna have a read through the link marjon sent before I touch anything else.

marjon · Apr 4, 2021

It will show you whats in there and what you are up against.

J

border · Apr 4, 2021

marjon said:
It will show you whats in there and what you are up against.

J

Yes I see what it is now. So should the round plate circled in blue that I have removed bolts from Prise Off first ?

marjon · Apr 4, 2021

border said:
Yes I see what it is now. So should the round plate circled in blue that I have removed bolts from Prise Off first ?

Yes, see @Blackburn post.
Patience or violence to get it out it seems

J

border · Apr 4, 2021

marjon said:
Yes, see @Blackburn post.
Patience or violence to get it out it seems

J

, Thought it was all one piece, must be the crud and paint covering the join. don't want to hammer at the end in case I bugger the threads up where arm goes back on. will have another go tomorrow and try not to damage anything.

border · Apr 6, 2021

Well Ive been in some sticky situations similar to this with mt defender rebuild but never gave up, always got them in the end. But Im ready to give up in this one, watched a few vids on getting them out with a jack but they had the full weight of vehicle on them, tried lowering on to axle stand with socket and banging it down from top, the dam thing has not moved. dont want to cut it out then have to weld chassis back up. Gonna tip chassis on its side or even upside down as blackburn mentioned then have a go from that side.

Herald · Apr 7, 2021

Are you still trying to remove the flange plate (the item circle in blue in earlier posts) I used a cold chisel to remove that, it was heavily corroded. The steering relay itself came out after filling the hole with penetrating fluid for a few days then knocking the top left to right, left to right repeatedly - the movement is imperceptible at first. I jacked the car up on the relay and continued knocking it from side to side. It eventually came out. Keep topping it up with your favourite penetrating fluid/diesel/brake fluid.

rob1miles · Apr 7, 2021

Agreed, run oil down between the relay and the chassis for a few days, keep tapping it. There is a section where water gets in a swells it and it gets stuck. Once it moves you should be OK. A lot of people free it with a jack from underneath but you may be short of weight.

border · Apr 7, 2021

Ive removed the round plate it came off easy. Doing as above tapping everywhere, now I have moved it up about half inch so getting somewhere at last after starting to use diesel instead of wd40, still soaking so see how far I can get it tomorrow.
,

rob1miles · Apr 7, 2021

!/2" is a good as a done, you are nearly home and dry.

border · Apr 8, 2021

rob1miles said:
!/2" is a good as a done, you are nearly home and dry.

Nearly there now, need 5 minutes to carm down and stop shouting and swearing

cornish rattler · Apr 8, 2021

When you replace the relay replace it with a good make one like Bearmach

Blackburn · Apr 8, 2021

Overhaul your old one if shaft fitted you can fit a speedi sleeve to it.

border · Apr 8, 2021

cornish rattler said:
When you replace the relay replace it with a good make one like Bearmach

Well the bas!!!rds oot, nearly gave up but got there in the end , broke one of the corners off but still usable. was planning on keeping it but not sure how old or how long its been in there, probably since 1970 by the look of it. but think the rebuild deserves a new one anyway , depending on price of them.

Blackburn said:
Overhaul your old one if shaft fitted you can fit a speedi sleeve to it.

Whats a speedy sleeve ?

Blackburn · Apr 8, 2021

Speedi sleeve
https://www.skf.com/us/products/ind...ear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/productid-99112
good for gearbox output shafts steering relay shaft [there was some very poor steering relays on the market awhile back shafts kept snapping hence my suggestion to rebuild what you have]
If the cones on the shaft are not badly pitted the seal section can be renewed with the sleeve.

border · Apr 8, 2021

Blackburn said:
Speedi sleeve
https://www.skf.com/us/products/ind...ear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/productid-99112
good for gearbox output shafts steering relay shaft [there was some very poor steering relays on the market awhile back shafts kept snapping hence my suggestion to rebuild what you have]
If the cones on the shaft are not badly pitted the seal section can be renewed with the sleeve.

Thanks Mate will have a good look at it and see if it is worth saving.

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