Did the same thing to my Disco over the weekend. The counting turns thing is only for when you'll be putting the old balljoints back into the trackrod/draglink, you need a tape measure and a steel rule when you put new ones in.
To get old ones out, a couple of hammers to thwack around the trackrod (to split any rust),half a can of WD40, a bench vice and a bar over the balljoint taper threads will do the trick. My breaker bar has a hangy hole drilled through the end just right for slotting over. It WILL be graft though.
Refitting new ones isn't reverse of removal...
Wind the Adjustment bar out of the trackrod clean all the threads.
Fit the balljoints to the trackrod and adjustment bar so the the centre of the balljoint is 28.5mm to the trackrod/adjuster end.
Wind the adjuster bar in so the shoulder of the bar is 9mm from the end of the trackrod.
Adjust things so the balljoints are inline with each other, the distance centre to centre is 1230mm and the angle between the balljoints and the steering damper bracket is 43° +- 10° - by eye is good enough on that tolerance.
Copper ease helps the job immensely. A bench vice to hold the trackrod ends upright and a Stilson wrench to turn the trackrod/adjuster was invaluable too. I happened that gripping the trackrod and turning the balljoint may damage it.
Fit to your landy, torque setting is 40Nm - if you don't have a t-wrench, 40Nm is a lot less than you think.
Check the 1230mm distance. I used a half decent tape measure mole gripped to the retaining nut nearside, had to wind the adjuster slightly to get it cock on.
Mr Haynes-Manual has all those measurements and a slightly less well written how to in psalm 11:6 (I think).