Need to try and find a wiring diagram for them.
Need to try and find a wiring diagram for them.
https://www.justanswer.com/volvo/3iru6-bought-driver-passenger-front-seats-2003.html
Surely not a case of just connecting with a block?
Surely not a case of just connecting with a block?
PSM is basically an ECU for the seats, requires power and ground along with switch gear, looks like there is a lot more to it
PSM is basically an ECU for the seats, requires power and ground along with switch gear, looks like there is a lot more to it
You got a scrappy nearby to pester for the stuff?
Nope. How did I know it would be complicated lol
Well, at a guess, being as everything else has been so easy up until now this is just a curve ball before the MOT LOL
The Volvo answers page kind of makes sense to me. The problem being, the bit apparently for the switch plate doesn’t have same color coding as the psm switch pin. This could well be because Passenger is different to drivers. I’ll have another look tomorrow. I could live with it not reclining and just sliding foward and can even weld the tilt bars together to lock it but I would be really smart for it to work. Your right - I need the coding which looks like it’s available. Will scour tomorrow
Sounds like a simple double pole on-off-on switch will do.Ok gents. I definitely need your help with this next mini phase if you’d be so kind! It involves relays, switches and continuity
A little 12v Bosch motor controls the tilt via a clever gear system. This means I need a little system that reverses polarity I believe and thus changing direction of motor? Is it as simple as having a switch in off, a switch in idle and a switch in reverse?
@The Mad Hat Man @dieseldog69
Morning - theres two choices. There is the ultimate that is ideal in that I keep the switchplate and it works - I get tilt, recline etc. Or, I rewire the 2 no. (got to work out the recline one) 12v motors and have toggle switches for these. I'll then fibreglass my own switch panel. Heated seat is a bit trickier but I now have diagrams. You will be able to make far more sense of these as you know the symbols. I have electrical CAD as part of my suite so I can hunt through the symbol names but you will know already. 2 secs....
There seems to be a couple of issues that I can see here...., one is that it uses a canbus feed for some reason that is beyond me. It also has logic to determine the end positions of its travel. You could get away without these but I don’t know if it would work without these systems running.
Be aware that these diagrams are not completely correct, and will not work as shewn.
The pass side is easy to repeat. The stop logic seems to be a voltage sense device, such that when the motors hit an “end stop”, the increase in current will drop the voltage. This is detected and the supply is cut. Not too difficult to replicate.
The drivers side may have devices to detect a heat rise by the motors to determine excess current draw, which is fed back to the PSM. This could also be replicated, if you knew what these devices were.
The diff being that it appears that there appears to be feedback control on each of the motors on the drivers side and a collective control on the passengers. I cannot see you using more than one switch at once, so the passenger system is the simpler one.
Prob is..... will the motors work on the drivers side without any controls and how to you stop the risk of burning out a motor without any controls, if they do?
The pass side is easy to repeat. The stop logic seems to be a voltage sense device, such that when the motors hit an “end stop”, the increase in current will drop the voltage. This is detected and the supply is cut. Not too difficult to replicate.
The drivers side may have devices to detect a heat rise by the motors to determine excess current draw, which is fed back to the PSM. This could also be replicated, if you knew what these devices were.
The diff being that it appears that there appears to be feedback control on each of the motors on the drivers side and a collective control on the passengers. I cannot see you using more than one switch at once, so the passenger system is the simpler one.
Prob is..... will the motors work on the drivers side without any controls and how to you stop the risk of burning out a motor without any controls, if they do?
holy sh!t. thanks for taking the time to analyse those! From what I have read, it will work without the canbus.
"Prob is..... will the motors work on the drivers side without any controls and how to you stop the risk of burning out a motor without any controls, if they do? "
How do you mean no controls? Do you mean the logic to tell it to stop?
What do you think best remedy is after seeing these? Realistically, Recline is the only thing I really need - I can weld the tilt bars in place if its going to be murder to do...
"Prob is..... will the motors work on the drivers side without any controls and how to you stop the risk of burning out a motor without any controls, if they do? "
How do you mean no controls? Do you mean the logic to tell it to stop?
What do you think best remedy is after seeing these? Realistically, Recline is the only thing I really need - I can weld the tilt bars in place if its going to be murder to do...
Here is a picture of the PSM. The green connector on the left is from the switch panel, which you know. Next to that is a two wire grey connector. The pin on the left (with the black wire) is ground and the pin on the right is positive.
Then there is the 4 pin grey connector to the right. It will have 4 smaller male terminals. The lower right (red/green in the picture) is positive and the upper left (hard to tell, but its black) is ground. The lower left (white wire in picture) and upper right (green) is for the CAN wiring and is not needed.
Yes I do. They will either
All work without stop control logic or
None will work without it.
As I said either they will all work, or none will. If you want one working, you might as well have all of them.
Not familiar with any of it, let alone a PSM.
Here is a picture of the PSM. The green connector on the left is from the switch panel, which you know. Next to that is a two wire grey connector. The pin on the left (with the black wire) is ground and the pin on the right is positive.
Then there is the 4 pin grey connector to the right. It will have 4 smaller male terminals. The lower right (red/green in the picture) is positive and the upper left (hard to tell, but its black) is ground. The lower left (white wire in picture) and upper right (green) is for the CAN wiring and is not needed.
Need to see how the switches work.
We need to meet .
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