And get plenty of cutting/grinding/sanding discs
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
welding does cause distortion if you use enough heat thats why we have hammers and gas torches and welding sequences
You're not going to like this........
Chop it all out and start again but try and set up your outside corner welds like this.
View attachment 161760
Notice how the vertical plate gives a shelf for the weld puddle to sit on, using a slight weave you'll be able to marry the two outside edges with the puddle and there will be plenty of penetration through the inside edges where the plates barely touch. Also, plates where there is likely to be high heat input you should tack a little more frequently to avoid warpage.
DO NOT GET DISHEARTENED!!!!!
It's easy sitting here in the warm and dry of the front room but it's never so easy in the heat of battle with the wind up your skirt and the darn thing just won't do as it's told, perseverance is the key, if at first, second & third time you don't succeed, try, try again, and again
I'll cut a few 2mm offcuts and practice that a few times before I go near her. So get jacks under and you don't think there will be movement? What you thinking crush tube wise?
The difficult thing now is finding something to weld to
Use datum's from opposing side and transfer to the side you are working on.
Cut a big card template to help and you could weld in some support straps from good metal to hold them in place if you want.
What's your Thoughts on cutting all out bar where I've done 3mm stuff as fairly happy with that stuff, leaving back side in then carding up an L profile for the section. Once I've carded up I can then weld up my L section on the bench
That will work
I would tack it on the bench small inch stitches to hold it in place, weld it all up in situ, aim for 3" runs in alternate areas to avoid the heat distortion, it will want to pull in at the top.
Can never have enough steel at home, just think of the A-Team and get you sum goldy lookin chain LOLZ
only chicken
Only really heavy plate, like 5mm+ thick stuff, but these butt welds on 2mm should fuse solidly with minimal distortion.
Are you pushing or pulling your puddles?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Have a think.....
Getting a galv chassis,will it give you as much pleasure just plonking a body on?
Or will you feel short changed on your full restoration?
Your still learning the art of metal work & it's improving all the time.
I'm glad there are people here to help & boost moral when down.
Getting a galv chassis,will it give you as much pleasure just plonking a body on?
Or will you feel short changed on your full restoration?
Your still learning the art of metal work & it's improving all the time.
I'm glad there are people here to help & boost moral when down.
Post to be found here [URL="https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steep-learning-curve.330416/page-26#post-4356755"]Steep learning curve[/URL]
I know, it was looking quite ok, think you got distracted by the Defender project and are now finding it hard to get back onto the groove
You'll get there again though and it will all come good
Vertical down is fine with a slight gap and a little weave motion, some folks will lambaste you for it "blah, blah, blah, penetration, blah, blah, blah, not strong enough, blah, blah, blah" and OK, yes they're right when you are welding material a lot heavier than a 2mm butt joint, but if you want to add strength to your verticals then add a backing strap and a bigger gap and weave uphill for max penetration of parent, repair and backing strap. I think that Jodie did a few video's on his channel https://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks
Whilst st in meetings I was thinking about my chassis. My diary has a few random sketches
After scrolling through this thread (knew it would be handy) I have a plan.
I am going to very carefully slit the 2mm outer back at the point shown and reveal the 3mm.
The 3mm will then act as a backing strap and I'll gap and bevel my new panel. Can then go hot af without worry.
For the a frame end I was considering welding another strap to the rear of my plate, slotting in place then puddle weld through a couple of drilled holes in chassis
After scrolling through this thread (knew it would be handy) I have a plan.
I am going to very carefully slit the 2mm outer back at the point shown and reveal the 3mm.
The 3mm will then act as a backing strap and I'll gap and bevel my new panel. Can then go hot af without worry.
For the a frame end I was considering welding another strap to the rear of my plate, slotting in place then puddle weld through a couple of drilled holes in chassis
Post to be found here Steep learning curve
I know, it was looking quite ok, think you got distracted by the Defender project and are now finding it hard to get back onto the groove
You'll get there again though and it will all come good
Vertical down is fine with a slight gap and a little weave motion, some folks will lambaste you for it "blah, blah, blah, penetration, blah, blah, blah, not strong enough, blah, blah, blah" and OK, yes they're right when you are welding material a lot heavier than a 2mm butt joint, but if you want to add strength to your verticals then add a backing strap and a bigger gap and weave uphill for max penetration of parent, repair and backing strap. I think that Jodie did a few video's on his channel https://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks
You read my mind - we above and thanks for info
Aha!!!
The trials and tribulations are worth it in learning opportunities that present themselves.
