Better the devil you no
You could have bought a really nice one, but you’d have probably still found more wrong with it...
Thats what I’ve been telling myself although I’m also hoping that I’ll finish inside the value of the car.
Rich
Please don't take this the wrong way but I used to think I was a completely sh!t welder, however mine is no worse than this! So being as it is on here and not attracting criticism I have just realised I was probably trying too hard to get it absolutely right first time. i.e. enough penetration and metal welded in, without needing to grind back much.Got a pillar bottom and surround done on d1 today...
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I'd be careful with that jacket, I had a knock off leather jacket that went up like a fire cracker when I was welding lol
I feel much the same. i first bought a stick welder secondhand, £10 lol, but it works fine so for thick stuff I still prefer it, which no one understands. but thin stuff is much harder for me and, as you say, when the metal is not brand new it is much harder. I once welded new repair plates into the foot wells of an old style mini, afterwards it looked like a forest or a hedghog, the number of times i burnt through and a bit of wire shot through the hole then got welded into place! but it ground back OK and passed the MOT!The welding above of the pillar brace is ugly. I was filling gaps between bodywork joints. I find it much easier now welding up chassis steel than bodywork. If you have fresh metal with both sides clean it’s easy. It’s when the impurities from rust/paint/seam sealer start getting in my welds that causes pain.
That pillar outer welding is tidy welding I thought lol! My welding always looks agricultural unless running beads on fresh stuff. It’s quite easy to make a cold weld look good - I’ve done it and chopped it back out before!
My welder was a present from a whole load of members of my family so I really couldn't get rid of it to just replace it, but it only has 4 power settings. So often I seem to need a setting between two of them. Yet my other son in law, who is a whizz at welding, still manages to weld well with it and cannot understand why I suffer! But he lives miles away in Worcestershire.These Clarke welders can be setup quite nicely in that provided there’s not a big gap, you can run an inch without burning through. If there is a gap - you will burn through for sure. Switch up to 2mm on the chassis, and I purposely gap it and run nice long beads. Bodywork welding is just sensitive lol.
Don’t think anyone is out to knock on here to be honest. I’ve had so much help from people both with this and the 90. Each time I get stuck I know which members I need to tag in to make sense of it for me!
Ooo sounds like you have another project to start then!! This was so bad but it’s not far off now! I’ve seen the odd anniversary but they’ve all been dead! I also wanted standard leather but prices were silly so got some Volvo ones to go in.
Yes this threads been going far too long and I couldn’t actually mig before I started it
4 or so settings is going to be a poor transformer, obviously at times its just right but not often, i bought a parweld and the difference between that and the sealy is remakableMy welder was a present from a whole load of members of my family so I really couldn't get rid of it to just replace it, but it only has 4 power settings. So often I seem to need a setting between two of them. Yet my other son in law, who is a whizz at welding, still manages to weld well with it and cannot understand why I suffer! But he lives miles away in Worcestershire.
I agree about the help you get on here. I have had tons of help with my TD5, which is sadly a pain compared to the 300tdi, which is so old skool. As you say, you soon get to know who knows what, and there are so many experts on here who give brilliant advice.
On Anything Goes you will find there are some people you wouldn't want to meet in real life, but then you don't have to go there! But again there are some real good laughs to be had and with CV19 it means you still have mates you can have a laugh with, like down the pub without the beer!
I have been looking around recently and decent welders seem to have come down a bit in price. When I eventually get around to welding up the anniversary Disco I'll see how I get on with the old one and if I get too frustrated, Ill bite the bullet and buy a new one. Can't remember the make of mine, but I don't think it is even a Sealey. Will check out Parweld, since you mention them.4 or so settings is going to be a poor transformer, obviously at times its just right but not often, i bought a parweld and the difference between that and the sealy is remakable
My s-i-l also says adjusting the wire speed can make a difference too, but then he says stuff like, "you might just have to weld a bit faster"Talking about settings between the settings on your welder. I've been watching this fella on youtube https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=trevs+blog and he talks about altering the distance from the torch to the workpiece to vary the amount of heat going into the weld. So say setting 3 on the welder with the torch close to the weld is true 3 and setting 3 with the torch a bit further out is 3 and a half. Seems to work for him and he does some lovely stuff. Worth a look on these dark boring winter nights.
On the thicker stuff do you never get the urge to do it with an arc welder? I have to admit that I prefer it, and once you get a bit good, getting the slag off isn't a problem.I find my settings quite nice until I go up to 3mm and really need a 16a supply. 2 max for overlap 1.5mm or 2 min for butting it. 3 max for 2mm and don’t really use 3 min. This is obviously specific to this Clarke one.
I tied it all together earlier...
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