sp00k

sp00k

Well-Known Member
I just want to clarify the cold starting procedure for 2.5D NA.

I was told glow plugs for 15 seconds, then floor the accelerator and turn over the engine...I was having mixed success with this.

Then I read: glow plugs for 15 seconds, then depress the clutch and turn over the engine. I've had more success with this.

This morning I had no luck with either and it sounded like my battery was giving up.

I think there is a drip on the fuel leak off line which is probably allowing air in the system overnight - which won't help.

Cheers.
 
Depends on the weather but whatever it is like there is no need to touch the accelerator, dip the clutch by all means as that reduces drag but keep the right foot clear.

In mild weather my 2.5NA D required little over 5-seconds of pre-heat and would then turn once before starting. In really cold weather (anything below zero degrees) this was increased to between 10-15 seconds, it would then turn once and start cleanly.
I once noticed an increase in pre-heat time and along with the fact that it didn't start cleanly soon diagnosed a faulty heater plug. I didn't bother trying to establish which one was faulty as they are very cheap and a doddle to change (practically no worse than a spark-plug) so I fitted a new set. On inspecting the old ones it was easy to spot the faulty one, I could have removed them one at a time and tested them but didn't think it worth it.
 
id suggest glow plug change as well, definately dip the clutch, its winter so get your alternator output checked and battery drop tested.... for me its dark going to work and dark returning so sit on car park at both ends for 5 minutes at end of journey all loads switched off to give the batteries a boost and also remove n charge batteries every 1-2 weeks overnight

cheers steve
 
My 19j (2.5 TD) required at least 20 seconds of plug and a good amount of cranking before it would consider starting.

Wouldn't touch the accelerator whilst starting, just leave it be.

The best remedy for poor 2.5 NAD and 2.5 TD starting is of course to rip them out and fit a Tdi :D
 
Langers said:
The best remedy for poor 2.5 NAD and 2.5 TD starting is of course to rip them out and fit a Tdi :D along with 24volt electrics and a 2400 amp alternator
Click to expand...

edited for accuracy lol

.... starting......winter... lights.... wipers... heater... eberspacher..... ...who cares :)

8161087376_764731d340_c.jpg


cheers steve
 
Last edited:
ebbadger said:
edited for accuracy lol

.... starting......winter... lights.... wipers... heater... eberspacher..... ...who cares :)

8161087376_764731d340_c.jpg


cheers steve
Click to expand...

By my calculations that alternator leaves the grand sum total of about 3 horsepower for actually moving the thing though haha :D

Mightily impressive though. The SIZE of that cable! :0
 
I also have a massive 24v alternator as the truck is ex-mod FFR - it's not being driven of course but I've left the wiring in place for now. Was thinking it might come in handy for camping or something but I've got enough other jobs to sort out for the moment.
 
Looks like a 24volt lightweight s3 ffr. :eek:

I used to do two warm ups then turn the key and leave it to tick over for 5 and try not to rev it to much while pulling away, but fuel is bloody damn expensive to do that now.
 
Correct starting procedure for 2.5 N/A (12J) and 2.5 TD (19J) is as follows:

1) Ensure gearbox is in neutral
2) Ensure clutch pedal is fully actuated
3) Turn ignition key and hold on glow plugs for 15-25 seconds
4) Turn ignition key to full extent to engage starter
Do not touch the accelerator at any stage until the engine has started

The Lucas / Cav rotary injection pump fitted to both engine variants has a mechanical cold start advance / over fuelling system which is engaged when the engine is off. If you look at the injection pump from above, you will notice that there is a mechanical linkage sat towards the front of the pump, next to the fuel input from the fuel filter. This linkage should be resting in the closed position (against fuel inlet) for effective startup. You can check this by rotating the linkage counter clockwise and then observing the closing position. There should also be a small amount of slack in the throttle cable which will ensure that the governor is not 'opened' unintentionally whilst the accelerator pedal is in its resting state.

If you still have starting trouble, check your glow plugs are all in good order - they are paramount for starting these engines, particularly in cold conditions. If the engine is slow to turn over, check the health of your battery and examine / clean all engine / chassis earth points. Other factors such as air in the fuel system, fuel line leak back, a weak / failed lift pump or a clogged fuel filter can also contribute to poor starting.

-Tom
 
Cheers guys. Sounds like I need a bit longer on the glow plugs. It was bloody cold this morning!
 
I was unable to start again today and I managed to drain the battery again. I had several attempts with long runs of the glow plugs inbetween attempts to turn over the engine.

There was a couple of times where it sounded line it was going to start, so I continued to turn over for about 20-30 seconds but this feels like too long. I would say cumulatively over several attempts I've turned over the engine for at least a minute before killing the battery so I guess that means the battery is ok.

The battery is charging at 8 amps initially, reducing to 5 amps after a couple of hours then reducing to next to nothing over several hours, so it does seem to charge ok.

Glowplugs are number one suspect and are now on order.

My truck is exmod - are there any differences with the starting procedure? Post here, suggests that you need your foot to the floor to start: Ex MOD 110 2.5NA Diesel performance - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

Cheers guys.
 
No need to touch the accelerator and no, in terms of engine & starting proceedure a MOD vehicle is no different to a civy one.

If it runs ok at all other times and starts ok in the summer then the glow-plugs have to be the prime suspect.
 
sp00k said:
I just want to clarify the cold starting procedure for 2.5D NA.

I was told glow plugs for 15 seconds, then floor the accelerator and turn over the engine...I was having mixed success with this.

Then I read: glow plugs for 15 seconds, then depress the clutch and turn over the engine. I've had more success with this.

This morning I had no luck with either and it sounded like my battery was giving up.

I think there is a drip on the fuel leak off line which is probably allowing air in the system overnight - which won't help.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Flooring the throttle will disable cold start mode, so always keep foot well clear of the throttle when starting and make sure your throttle cable is not tight at the injection pump always slightly pulling the throttle lever over as this will be as good as touching the throttle and will again disable cold start mode.
 
whatever you do, do NOT touch the accelerator with a 2.5. A 2.25 required flooring. Flooring a 2.5 will only make it harder to start.
 
My Ex-Mod 2.5 NA would start as previously stated....clutch in...15-20 seconds to warm glow plugs then crank over with no throttle....started no probs....

glow plugs are your answer if battery is fully charged !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Seaswood
2.5 na smoking
Replies
14
Views
364
Seaswood
Seaswood
N
Military 2.5d NA Head Gasket and Coolant Refill
Replies
3
Views
754
tottot
tottot
T
Has a 2014 Fl2 a cold start procedure?
Replies
2
Views
169
Nodge68
Nodge68
G
2.5 NA won’t start after injection pump swap.
Replies
3
Views
849
al2647
A
B
Restored 1972 Series 2 Diesel not starting
Replies
16
Views
588
Shedload
S