GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Its quite clear in the Rave PDF. This is the page I've been looking at....
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/KSeriesStartingCircuit.jpg
You'll need to zoom in on this image and the quality isn't good, so best go to the Rave PDF directly.
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/KSeriesStartingCircuit.jpg
You'll need to zoom in on this image and the quality isn't good, so best go to the Rave PDF directly.
this may sound madness but as the starter motor goes through quite a few circuits etc
could the internal fuses be pulled to see if something is triggering the blown fuse
did read though not to pull fuses for ecus as it can cause damage to them
relay oxygen sensor looks part of the circuit
what about the inertia switch under the bonnet etc ???
Last edited:
yeh been looking through the circuit and the relay box
wonder if anyone was near the op with a hawkeye or diagnostic to plug it in for him
know if he was near me would have happily plugged the hawkeye in and help all I could
stebo88
Member
Ive changed the fuse box and the relay box with ones from my donor hippo.
Hi Stebo, any news? I was just about to post about some experience somewhat similar on a Ford a few years back. Same issues to that. Silly me (never again!), was trying to tighten the alternator bracket mount without having d/c the negative terminal on the battery.. what happens? My arm slips and a skinny part of a metal screwdriver falls in and comes in to contact with the internals of the alternator, a massive spark is then seen! The symptoms that you have followed. It wouldn't start and kept on blowing one particular fuse. I would replace it, it would blow it again. Turned out to the a relay that had gone. Replaced the relay and all was fine. Given it had resulted in sparking, i removed that alternator and put in a known working one. The electrical system is usually set up so that a relay will usually knacker itself out rather than major components being affected. That was on a 99 Ford Festiva though. We can forget about this idea as you said you've removed the engine compartment relays box with one which works fine from another Hippo....
Last edited:
stebo88
Member
Yep, relay box been replaced. A mate told me to take the belt off of the alternator and start the car. He said if the fuse still blew then it had nothing to do with the alternator. The fuse did blow so the altenator has been ruled out.
I know it's a long shot as you didn't remove the ignition barrel, but I also know someone once who changed the heater matrix and damaged the ignition barrel in an attempt to remove some components around the steering wheel that wouldn't budge.. can you rule out a faulty ignition ? Though I note you driving through the puddle probably had nothing to do with it. Would water have splashed over the main computer in the engine bay? Have you removed it and checked that there's nothing loose or damaged in it's connection, etc? Does it unlock/lock normally with the key and all other electrics apart from starting? Or is there also an issue with other electrics (without starting)? The RAVE CD has a complex schematic diagram of all of the different grounding points in the vehicle, but even if you drove through a puddle, i dont see why you'd go checking ground points, unless you did some work on it before like removing the gearbox, etc, for which you would have needed to remove one or more of the ground connections, etc.
stebo88
Member
I have replaced the ignition switch and the immobiliser ring today but fuse is still blowing. Here is a list of the things ive replaced. Let me know if ive missed anything please.
Starter motor (twice)
Battery
Ignition switch
Immobiliser ring
Relay box
Fuse box
Starter to battery wire
Starter to relay wire
Earth from battery
Cleaned connections
Starter motor (twice)
Battery
Ignition switch
Immobiliser ring
Relay box
Fuse box
Starter to battery wire
Starter to relay wire
Earth from battery
Cleaned connections
christ mate no wonder ur going up the wall
trying to rack my brain in what it could be
I don't know if looking in the owners manual or haynes and pulling every fuse out u don't need for the car to start if it would help in any way
would be a great start to just allow the car to start without the fuse blowing
wonder if a sensor could do this
but that's just clutching at straws
will have another look through the net and see if i can see anyone else having this problem
trouble is also car wiring techs could be expensive to resolve , so after the fuse has blown do u then replace the starter motor fuse with the engine running , must be a royal pain and feel for u mate
Last edited:
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
As you're happy jumping the starter solenoid. Disconnect the wire from Fuse F1 to Starter Relay at the fuse - this will take the relay and wire out of the equation. Then Jump the solenoid from battery.
If it still blows the problem must be in the fuse box (presumably!) - not further down the line in the wires/Relay.
I think its time to get an auto electrician on it though.
If it still blows the problem must be in the fuse box (presumably!) - not further down the line in the wires/Relay.
I think its time to get an auto electrician on it though.
stebo88
Member
Fuse box has been replaced so i dont see how that could be the problem. I do believe you are right and its time for an auto electrician to have a look. Trouble is they are so bloody expensive!!
stebo88
Member
Heads up my arse mate.
When the fuse blows i just wait until i need to start it again then either replace the fuse or bump start it.
u didn't happen to buy ur starter motors from the same place , could it be a bad batch , ????
shame u wernt nearer to me as I would have helped u all I can
two heads better than one
so could have gone through it with a fresh set of eyes
but maybe it may be time for an auto electrician but agree there expensive
just feel sorry for u mate and wish I could help u more as it must be very frustrating
I know I'm clutching at straws here but
would unplugging all the sensors, including the lamba one, spraying both plugs with electrical cleaning spray and reconnecting them work ??
also do the same with the 12 v starter motor lead, alternator plug
everything that could be unplugged and sprayed then reconnected
know it has a warning of never unplugging the main ecu as it can cause damage
had another thought , inside ur ecu box do u have a fan in there , as I wondered if it could spray water inside the box and over something and pop a fuse
just clutching at straws
has someone got a diagnostic machine near u , would it tell u anything
also spraying ur abs sensors
did u fix ur rear brake light , lol
will be interesting to see how it goes and if we need to break u out of the nearest nut house where you've lost all ur sanity
Last edited:
stebo88
Member
No mate one starter i got from my mates freelander n the other i got from a freelander i bought for parts.
Tried spraying all the connections. Got a couple more wires to replace if they dont work then its time for an auto electrician.
