The problem in uk at the moment is that there are only 2 P38 garages that are trusworthy, both very busy and both 100+ miles away .How difficult is it tho check FIP timing?

Pretty easy with the adapter and following the instructions in RAVE. Hot start usually starts cold but not hot. Won't help starting cold as it just tricks the car into thinking it is cold. I would always time up as per RAVE first. You might tweak the modulation with a Nanocom afterwards (although my car is over 170k miles on original chains and doesn't require it). People forget about the shim required when setting the cam bolt on higher mileage engines. That helps too.
 
Pretty easy with the adapter and following the instructions in RAVE. Hot start usually starts cold but not hot. Won't help starting cold as it just tricks the car into thinking it is cold. I would always time up as per RAVE first. You might tweak the modulation with a Nanocom afterwards (although my car is over 170k miles on original chains and doesn't require it). People forget about the shim required when setting the cam bolt on higher mileage engines. That helps too.
Thanks I will look into it
 
Thanks I will look into it
You will find it very difficult to get the timing spot on with the DTI method described in RAVE, I have never managed it, hence my easy method with Nanocom (Faultmate) and a steel rule with which I can get the timing exact.
 
Thanks Keith, rain permitting, I am first going to check resistance of Glow plugs and if I have a battery drain and move on from there
 
Thanks Keith, rain permitting, I am first going to check resistance of Glow plugs and if I have a battery drain and move on from there
If it starts when cold, it's not likely to be a glow plug problem, they are not needed when the engine is hot.
 
If it starts when cold, it's not likely to be a glow plug problem, they are not needed when the engine is hot.
my battery will only turn the car over for about 10 seconds (if that ) before becoming flat. if someone puts a "jump" to the car it makes no difference it will still not turn over. Connected it direct to recovery waggon ,and even that didn`t do it. I am thinking I should start with that.. what do you think?
 
my battery will only turn the car over for about 10 seconds (if that ) before becoming flat. if someone puts a "jump" to the car it makes no difference it will still not turn over. Connected it direct to recovery waggon ,and even that didn`t do it. I am thinking I should start with that.. what do you think?
Sounds like your battery is knackered to me or the earth strap engine to chassis is corrode/broken. It's also possible for the positive cable from the battery to the starter to corrode away inside the plastic sleeving.
 
To add, inside the battery connectors as well. I would do continuity checks on the negative cables between the chassis, engine and battery. Also the positive wires to and from the battery, Alternator and starter. 👍
 
I'd have the battery checked at a car parts shop after you've charged it and left it for a few hours to settle down. You may have next to no storage in the battery🤔
 
thanks Keith
Sorry for the delay in response to my problem but I have been away then in hospital. The problem was the battery all along. I had it re tested by a reputable place and it checked out ok. But I decided that I would bite the bullet and renew it anyway. The problem disappeared instantly. It seems that the battery only had enough " depth of charge for one start, if called to do it again soon afterwards it was flat and even if you attatched a breakdown waggon battery to it it would not let the current through, Anyway alls well that ends well .Take care all Mick
 

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