MeatCleaverX86

Active Member
Hi You lot

1994 Defender 300 TDI NO IMOBILISER

struggling to find a wiring diagram without the immobiliser in the equation.

but the issue i have is the engine is starting when the key is in the run position.

I have replaced the ignition switch and pulled out the starter relays and the bloody thing still started on the run position and keeps the starter engaged.

Apart from a wiring fault / short circuit anything else to check / common place the wiring wears though.
 
Hi You lot

1994 Defender 300 TDI NO IMOBILISER

struggling to find a wiring diagram without the immobiliser in the equation.

but the issue i have is the engine is starting when the key is in the run position.

I have replaced the ignition switch and pulled out the starter relays and the bloody thing still started on the run position and keeps the starter engaged.

Apart from a wiring fault / short circuit anything else to check / common place the wiring wears though.
You 100% you put the wires back in the right place when you changed ignition switch?
 
you asked did i wire it up correct and i will reply again

YES..... I have the same symptoms before and after the ignition switch change.
 
Not sure what the immobilser has to do with it.
But let’s start with some basics, goggle is good.

If you have pulled the starter relay then at a guess the solenoid for the starter is getting power from somewhere in the “run” position.

Do you own a DMM?

How did the problem start?
has the wiring been butchered as you say no immobilisation?

J
 
Not sure what the immobilser has to do with it.
But let’s start with some basics, goggle is good.

If you have pulled the starter relay then at a guess the solenoid for the starter is getting power from somewhere in the “run” position.

Do you own a DMM?

How did the problem start?
has the wiring been butchered as you say no immobilisation?

J
Had a good Google and have Haynes and other 300tdi wiring diagrams but they all have the ecu, immobiliser on them being a 1994 300tdi I believe mine left the factory without and immobiliser etc so the diagrams I have been able to do d aren't 100% accurate.

Dmm ? Multi meter ? If so yes have one of those.

It started whilst driving making a right racket then cutting out a few miles later with the symptoms of loosing power.

After a recharge of the battery that's when I noticed it started early on the key and replaced the switch. After swapping the switch it still happened so pulled the two relays for lights and starter to swap them over for testing but to my suprise it still started without any relay in.

The wiring hasn't been butchered no mods to the loom in the last 17 years of my ownership.

Hooking the relays up direct to a battery and testing continuity etc they check out fine.
 
Last edited:
disconnect the solenoid wire at the starter and trace it to the fuse box would be my first place to check. sounds like its getting power to activate the solenoid. It could be shorting to a live in the loom so you need to check what else is in that part of the loom and if any continuity to the solenoid wire.
Maybe a short in the fuse/relay box (although I dont think there is too much to them if its inside like my 96.

J
 
If you have pulled the starter relay that cuts the power to the starter solinoid,would mean you have a short either in the solinoid or the feed cable.
So Replace relay…
Remove solinoid feed and check for voltage,(if you have volts I would investigate ignition barrel)
if none turn key & check voltage.
 
Your solenoid has stuck
Yes this did cross my mind after more research. I didn't think about it sticking on to start with normally they stick off and just click. this is some of the info I'm missing without the diagram I'm guessing connections rather then being certain. Thank fully the snow has gone out of forecast for now so the slick tyres on the other car will make do for another week.
 
If the solenoid was stuck on then it would turn over as soon as battery connected shirely??

J
 

Similar threads