Not that much of a resurrection....well, not really....
I have a fault with the under driver's seat connector and having read the above would like just to confirm that cutting out the existing connector and jury rigging the existing cabling should sort this issue?
Cheers
:)
 
^ coz I got the fault codes read...I managed to clear the passenger one by cleaning the plug and re-connecting but the driver's side is being stubborn.
:)
 
Then it's just a lottery to cut the connectors and join the wires cos it can be the pretensioner itself or the wiring to the DCU, you'll have to use a resistor to diagnose it or go by luck and join the wires but if the code is the same that way you'll be back to square one
 
sierrafery said:
Then it's just a lottery to cut the connectors and join the wires cos it can be the pretensioner itself or the wiring to the DCU, you'll have to use a resistor to diagnose it or go by luck and join the wires but if the code is the same that way you'll be back to square one
Click to expand...
But it should at least answer that part of the question I guess.
 
I was advised to put a resistor in the circuit starting at about 2 ohms, or summat.
I simply cut the connector out and used a chocbloc. It works.

By saying this I mean that the SRS is still connected just via a chocbloc.
 
Last edited:
Stanleysteamer said:
I was advised to put a resistor in the circuit starting at about 2 ohms, or summat.
I simply cut the connector out and used a chocbloc. It works.

By saying this I mean that the SRS is still connected just via a chocbloc.
Click to expand...
The original connectors can become intermittent over time
 
kermit_rr said:
The original connectors can become intermittent over time
Click to expand...
You betcha, and when you open them up it is never really obvious why.
Plus they are a right bitch to get to and work on.
I suspect it is likely to be the wires cos they are so thin, and I think they may be breaking and making inside the insulation.
If I could be assed I'd replace both wires from one end of the under seat part to the other with more robust stuff soldered heatshrinked etc.
But I always seem to have another of W's "jobs" to do!:(
 
Just to update on this, I have the MOT thursday and the SRS light is on, so for onece plugged my Foxwell in and I cannot clear the dirvers airbag code, so that must be it.
Now have to take the wheel off and clean it all up I suppose.
Wot a pain!:(
 
kermit_rr said:
sorry you mean steerining wheel...
Click to expand...
Unless any other has a driver's airbag in it!!! 🤣 🤣 🤣 I was hoping there would be some sort of contacts I could clean up but the rotary connector is a different animal. Typical.
I have cancelled the MOT and will start further investigations when I'm free in a couple of days. Flipping electronix. Hate it.
But thanks to peeps on here at least I will know where to start.;)
 
Last edited:
You can unplug and connect one of THESE into the airbag's connector(C0257) toward the ECU to pass MOT then you can investigate further
 

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sierrafery said:
You can unplug and connect one of THESE into the airbag's connector(C0257) toward the ECU to pass MOT then you can investigate further
Click to expand...
Mate, thanks ever so much that will be a good place to start. :)
Ever so grateful for your help, as always. ;)
 
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Actually i better recommend THIS cos it can be plugged directly into the connector as there might be a shorting pin in it and the resistor's wire terminals seem a bit weak for that
 
sierrafery said:
Actually i better recommend THIS cos it can be plugged directly into the connector as there might be a shorting pin in it and the resistor's wire terminals seem a bit weak for that
Click to expand...
Thanks very much.
I think I saw this upthread.

I am not sure what a shorting pin is. I was expecting the other one to have a 2.2 ohm resistor in between the two ends, to simulate the resistance of the airbag. I agree that the wire terminals seem a bit flimsy.

As always I will take your advice and go from there.
Ta , Mate!:);)
 
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