jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
behind the hand brake is the out put housing it has a seal and a bearing, a worn bearing would cause a leak as out put shaft could move up/down ,side ways or could be just poor seal
Dutchy7
Active Member
Will I be able to screw those in without taking off the housing?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
yes, fit 2 m10 nuts on to stud near the end tighten both together then you can wind the stud in with a socket on the outer most nut ,slacken both nuts and remove then fit a washer and an m10 nut and tighten job done
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Yes, simply wind in the studs and put the nuts on. You may find threads have been stripped which may be why they're missing.
Dutchy7
Active Member
Found a little leak on the bottom. But nothing like you mentioned. More on some of the housing by the bolts. It seems it's leaking off that the most.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
youve got signs of oil on the rear axle and exhaust,the exhaust is thrown on from a spinning shaft rear axle just blown back, your rear seal is leaking ,as i said other parts may well be too,you may or may not have any oil left in the t/box,but i can only tell you what i see in the pics you put up
Turboman
Mab An Gov
There are oil splatters, but they can be blown back by the airflow while the vehicle is in motion. Could come from almost anywhere.
Also, not wishing to spoil your breakfast, but your chassis and other components are beginning to get surface corrosion, and need to be cleaned off and treated with paint or rustproofing chemicals at the earliest opportunity.
zeaphod
Well-Known Member
He's in Texas - I bet they don't have to salt the roads, so further chassis rust shouldn't be a problem.
zeaphod
Well-Known Member
The burning smell is most likely because some of the transfer box oil has got onto your hot exhaust. If I were you I would: 1. check both gearbox oil levels and top up as necessary. 2. loosen the fan and power steering belts and check that the alternator and power steering pump bearings feel smooth when turned. 3. Grease the propshaft UJs. 1 and 3 are normal maintenance for these old girls and should be done every few thousand miles. After that, it's time to sort out the seal and change the UJs if they have any side to side movement. You'll need a 9/16" spanner and a 9/16"propshaft tool (or 9/16" socket with a small head. This will let you remove the rear propshaft. The whole job is described here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/29370-replacing-an-lt230-transfer-box-rear-oil-seal/
Turboman
Mab An Gov
It may not have road salt, but it does have a lengthy maritime coastline, so there is a possibilty of salt air, or indeed, that the vehicle has met salt while launching a trailer or similar.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=m...i=1okIWZzKGYvOgAb5kamACw#imgrc=QWtI3eCGJZ7NrM:
There are also a number of salt flats in the state. So there is every chance the vehicle will be exposed to further salt. And indeed, that is what may have caused the corrosion in the first place.
http://texasmountaintrail.com/plan-.../salt-flats-near-guadalupe-mountains-national
Dutchy7
Active Member
What oil is reccomended for 1990 D90 200TDI gearbox?? And will checking the bearings for alternator and power steering going to mess up my timing? I'm assuming no as it's leaving my main pulley alone.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
EP90 gear oil. And those belts are nothing to do with the timing belt. Timing belt is inside a housing, and cannot be disturbed without unbolting things.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
gear box uses ATF dexron 2 or 3 ,transfer box ep90 or 80w/90 75w/90 same as the axle diffs
neilly
Well-Known Member
+1 - beat me to it
By an Hour and 15 minutes.....Hardly close was it....................Have you just woken up??
Cheers
Turboman
Mab An Gov
IIRC, main GB uses ATF, not EP90
+1 - beat me to it
Apologies. Early morning, I thought he was still on the transfer box!
Dutchy7
Active Member
I'm looking at the atf dexron. But it's saying auto matic. I have a manual will that make a difference?
