Anyone still interested?

Door mirrors fitted
Temporary repair done to driver's door.
New window fitted in Driver's door.
Rear shocks done.
Front shocks and springs in the process of being done today (Bloody bottom shock-bolt)

Piccies to follow this afternoon, when it's all done.

If you have a recip saw cut the nut and the shocker bolt straight up the middle then knock both halves of the nut off.

If not use a large stilson on the shock body and turn the shocker whilst the nut is held by a ring spanner
 
Right,

It's done. Bloomin'ekk that was tough.
Bear in mind this is all done on the drive with a Halfords tool-kit.

I'm shattered.

Proper update (with piccys) probably tomorrow.
 
Lovely hi-cap! I wouldn't use those rims on a hi-cap if i were you though. They are not intended for use with loaded 110s. They should only be fitted on 90s and discos.
 
Re: Rims:

I have heard the abocve statement (weak rims - not for a 110: ) I understand the relative capacity differences between a fully-loaded 110 and a D1/RRC/90....but is this laid out in numbers anywhere? Just curious how fragile those wheels are...
 
Ok.

So, I left off having just finished the new springs and shocks.

The front bottom shock bolts were a real pita to undo.
I ended up having to take the springs out, by getting the axle to articulate as much as I could by getting a bottle-jack between the axle and chassis, and jacking them apart. I then lifted the spring out, Which then gave me access to the bottom of the shock with the grinder. I ground off the bottom 'peg' of the shock, and lifted it out.

As I had the springs out, I decided to replace them with the Yellow +2 inch HD ones off the Discovery.

The Rear shocks were a piece of cake to do.

No piccies I'm afraid, as I was too busy shouting at it/sweating/chucking tools about!
 
I then went to my local Landrover independent for some bits and pieces.

Asked them for a price on some +2 inch rear springs.
"Do you want the yellow HD ones?" matey asked
"Yeah" I said "They'll match the fronts"
"That's handy" he said "I've some here, you can have them for 30 quid!!"
 
To fit the rear springs, I borrowed Phil's workshop.

I used the 2 poster ramp, so that as the Landy was lifted it would dislocate the rear springs.
It was then just a case of undoing the spring retainers, and lifting out the old springs.

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With the front lift done.

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And the rear.
 
Looks good :) Doing a really nice job on that, looks a bit military without the headlight surrounds :)
 
Right

So after I managed to nearly kill myself to death with the driver's door, I decided to try and affect a temporary repair until I could afford to replace it.
The frame had cracked through at the bottom, and it was only the skin that was providing any strength.

It looked like this.

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I had a bit of old scrap in the garage, so I cut a triangle out of it. I removed the door, and used a couple of G-claps to force the frame back into place.
I then riveted the triangle onto the frame.
It works quite well, the door no longer flops about in the breeze and feels stronger.

Thusly.
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The other problem I had with the door was it was an absolute sod to close properly.
I thought it was the frame being shagged, but it was the same after the repair. It almost felt like there was something stopping the catch engaging properly.
I was reading an old thread on here about door seals, and someone mentioned having a similar problem.
Turns out there is a strengthening 'tube' within the door seal, where it goes around the curved part of the door, it's supposed to help the seal keep it's shape.

Anyway, there are small 'air-holes' all along the seal. It was just a case of pulling this tube out of one of the air-holes using a pair of long nose pliers.

Hey-presto, the door closes much better. Yay!
 
Ok, so I've lost a lot of the photo's that I took while doing various jobs on the old girl when my phone got slightly run over..

After doing the doors, I had to fit some seat-belts.

I bought some brackets off eBay, and fettled (bodged) the Disco belts onto them. It's not pretty, but it works.

So, we're now ready-ish for MOT.

Took her down to the test station and...








She failed.

Balls.

TBF only on a track rod end and a indicator side repeater.

More to come...
 
Right.

Had a bit of a read up on here about how to do the TRE's (I did a search FFS!)

Was bracing myself for it to be an absolute balls of a job.
To make it easier on myself I removed the track-rod bar, and soaked both ends in WD-40 overnight. The next day I took the whole thing down to Phil's workshop.
20 mins later the job was done.

Result!

The side repeater was a loose wire so that was easy to fix.

Took her back down for re-test, and I had 12 months MOT


WOOHOO!!

Advisories were
Front pads low
Slight corrosion to rear brake pipes
Play in the steering.

Not too bad.
 
Right.

Had a bit of a read up on here about how to do the TRE's (I did a search FFS!)

Was bracing myself for it to be an absolute balls of a job.
To make it easier on myself I removed the track-rod bar, and soaked both ends in WD-40 overnight. The next day I took the whole thing down to Phil's workshop.
20 mins later the job was done.

Result!

The side repeater was a loose wire so that was easy to fix.

Took her back down for re-test, and I had 12 months MOT


WOOHOO!!

Advisories were
Front pads low
Slight corrosion to rear brake pipes
Play in the steering.

Not too bad.

Bostin r kid, as they say round ere :D

Now we'll move on to the fun stuff!

:D always the best bit :)

Keep up the good work mate, i want to see this develop. :)
 

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