via the switch and a fuse!

Ay sorry I should have elaborated.

Take a live feed direct from battery to relay make sure their is an inline fuse fitted.

Wire spots to relay

Earth relay to chassis.

wire a permanent live to a switch in the dash and run 2nd wire from dash switch to relay t activate the relay.
 
55w spot only draws 4.5amps approx. 100W only draws 8amp. 10 amp per spot is plenty. or 15amp for 55W and 20amp for100W if it's before the relay
 
Cheers guys, big help, now I know!

Can't wait to get all those wires routed through the bulkhead (sigh) :D
 
Ya only need to route 1 wire through the Bulkhead and that's the one from the switch to relay.
 
What about the supply feed to the switch, since I'm not having it wired to the sides or main beams, would I not just take it to the battery along with the relays live feed?
 
What about the supply feed to the switch, since I'm not having it wired to the sides or main beams, would I not just take it to the battery along with the relays live feed?

why not take a live from the fuse box in the dash, that way you don't have loads of wires coming off the battery which has several pros/cons:

1. you'll not have to run loads of wire
2. you'll not look like a fud with a badly wired landy when someone else looks under the bonnet.
3. you'll not be able to leave your spots on accidentally when you get out of yer landy to be a fud somewhere else as they would go off when you take your key out of the ignition.

i tied my front spots into the full beam circuit as there is plenty of dickheads that drive about up here with spots on all the time. they'll dip their headlights but forget/don't realise/are dicks and leave the spots on. fannys!! :mad:
 
What about the supply feed to the switch, since I'm not having it wired to the sides or main beams, would I not just take it to the battery along with the relays live feed?

no need as it's only feeding the relay it can be taken from any live feed inside the vehicle.
 

Similar threads