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Gartly Gav

New Member
I currently have Land Rover standard fit additional lights fitted to the A bar on the front of my 2006 Silver 90 but not happy with them.
I want to replace them with something nice and bright but see so many different types available. They are currently all wired in with a switch in the dash and ideally just want to replace the lights and not have to change the wiring,etc.

Just want something to go along with the normal full beam, Any suggestions as what to go for?

Cheers in advance
 
Everyone has their own opinions on lights so be prepared for differing opinions.
My personal preference is for Hella Rallye 3003. Ther are very well built, have an excellent beam pattern and being 55W will almost certainly be able to use your existing switching & cabling.

One thing that makes me wonder is that you say your existing lights are wired off a switch on the dash, does this mean they do not come on automatically with high beam but instead are controlled directly from this switch? If so I would say they have been installed by by someone without a real understanding of electrics so I would check the switching/fusing & cabling before doing anything else. The standard set-up (and what you describe as being what you want) is for the lights to come on with high-beam but then they must have an over-ride switch (and warning light) on the dash. A relay must be used along with a proper fused supply and the correctly rated cable.
 
Another vote for Hella 3003. Mine have the outer ring covers sprayed matt black as they are silver normally.

Very good lights and (touch wood) oblivious to stones even though they are glass and not sadly plastic.

DefenderLamps002.jpg

DefenderLamps001.jpg
 
Go on then, you've shown us yours so I will show you mine (the Hella Rallye 3003 that is!).


LRFRONTLIGHTSBUMPERNOREG.jpg
 
Litch said:
One thing that makes me wonder is that you say your existing lights are wired off a switch on the dash, does this mean they do not come on automatically with high beam but instead are controlled directly from this switch? If so I would say they have been installed by by someone without a real understanding of electrics so I would check the switching/fusing & cabling before doing anything else
Click to expand...

This is simply not true!

It is illegal for spots to be wired into high beam and yur vehicle should, technically fail an MOT for it.

Seperate switch is the way to go, no need to cut into the high beam.

Recommnedation for PIAA 80XTs... **** all over Roo****e :p 110w each though so you will need bigger wires.

G
 

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Griffdowg said:
This is simply not true!

It is illegal for spots to be wired into high beam and yur vehicle should, technically fail an MOT for it.

Seperate switch is the way to go, no need to cut into the high beam.

Recommnedation for PIAA 80XTs... **** all over Roo****e :p 110w each though so you will need bigger wires.

G
Click to expand...

Are you sure they are illegal when used on high beam?

I have owned a number of cars (Ford) where the spotlights are switched on via the main beam.

All factory fit - maybe Ford did not know or understand the MOT or maybe you are wrong?
 
maybe I am! but I have read that you cannot have them switched via the high beam. they are meant to be a seperate entity. much like roof lights.

Spots are an auxillary light, factory fitted or not.

Ok, done a little reading. It looks like if they are wired in to he main beam then they become part of the MOT and are not an 'auxillary light' therefore they need to spaced correctly and set for height and be in pairs. anything like blown bulbs and rusty bowls will fail as its part of the lighting system. This rule changed in the late 70's.

G
 
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Never had them tested on an MOT, the tester always says that as they are auxillary they do not come under the test and they are isolated for the purpose of the test (the Vehicle and Operator Services Agency MOT Inspection Manual for Private Passenger and Light Commercial Vehicle Testing certainly doesn't mention them).
I think you will find that the majority of front aux lights are switched to come in with Hi-beam, certainly that is how most manufacturers show them as being installed and I have never seen a disclaimer stating 'not for road use' when set up that way. As far as I am aware it is a requirement to have them switchable (so you can isolate them from the Hi-beam cct) and a warning light on the dash.
 
there legal on high beam as long as there switchable not to be on beam if you get me, like a switch to remove them from high beam for the test or a plod :) i know as my dad (mot tester) told me when i was wiring up my lights that they had to be switchable.
 
200tdi ayre said:
there legal on high beam as long as there switchable not to be on beam if you get me, like a switch to remove them from high beam for the test or a plod :) i know as my dad (mot tester) told me when i was wiring up my lights that they had to be switchable.
Click to expand...

Thats what I was told, by a friend (plod vehicle inspector), mine are enabled from a missile switch on the dash, but switched from the main beam feed via a relay.

MM
 
Litch said:
Never had them tested on an MOT, the tester always says that as they are auxillary they do not come under the test and they are isolated for the purpose of the test (the Vehicle and Operator Services Agency MOT Inspection Manual for Private Passenger and Light Commercial Vehicle Testing certainly doesn't mention them).
I think you will find that the majority of front aux lights are switched to come in with Hi-beam, certainly that is how most manufacturers show them as being installed and I have never seen a disclaimer stating 'not for road use' when set up that way. As far as I am aware it is a requirement to have them switchable (so you can isolate them from the Hi-beam cct) and a warning light on the dash.
Click to expand...

I think you got your wires crossed. I said if they were wired directly and come on with high beam.

If you have a cut out switch then you are effectively using the high beam as the 12v source therefore not part of the curcuit as you stated.

my main point however was that having them on a seperate curcuit was better than switched by the main beam. for starters the original wireing is not usually designed for anything over an additional 110w.

Play it safe. create the curcuit from scratch.

G
 
Griffdowg said:
I think you got your wires crossed. I said if they were wired directly and come on with high beam.
If you have a cut out switch then you are effectively using the high beam as the 12v source therefore not part of the curcuit as you stated.
my main point however was that having them on a seperate curcuit was better than switched by the main beam. for starters the original wireing is not usually designed for anything over an additional 110w.
Play it safe. create the curcuit from scratch.
G
Click to expand...

I think you have your wires crossed as well.
In my original reply I stated "..........but then they must have an over-ride switch (and warning light) on the dash." so that was what I said all along.

As for your comment that the original wiring is not rated for anything over an additional 110W (an ADDITIONAL 110W???) that is correct and why you should ALWAYS use a relay & separate fused supply and NEVER just tee into the existing wiring.
 
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