[JP];774133 said:
single? you mean single with 2 cores inside right? well, at least to bring the wire from the spot lights to the engine bay..

MHM.... little help please!!
I hope I can get sometime tomorrow after work to go down to Maplins in B'stoke and get the stuff...

cheers!

PM on way - pop in and see me - i am about 300yds from Maplins.
 
Here ya go, everything you need :)

spotlightwiring.jpg


You only need one fuse for your power circuit, mount it as close to the battery as possible.
The main beam trigger from the stalk (i talked about earlier) is already suitably fused.
 
Nice one lerk..thanks for that..
very professional drawing.. did you use Visio?

MHM, thanks for the offer and will see you later today.
 
just one thing to add - the two switches could be incorporated in one off/on/on switch (like a side/headlight switch) so that you have off/on with headlights/on all the time positions. would save another switch position and having to remember which switch does what....

Toggle switch.

SW42.jpg


3 position light switch. replaces Lucas 31788.
Heavy duty with metal body and plastic toggle lever.
Switch body dimensions: 37x27 x31mm deep.
10A @ 12V, 5A @ 24V.

sw42diag.GIF


10180d1242982276-spot-lights-55w-100w-switch.jpg


in the above circuit, common (to 86 on relay would be 4, main beam circuit would be to 6 and overide would be 8).
 

Attachments

  • switch.JPG
    switch.JPG
    25.8 KB · Views: 1,369
Last edited:
Here ya go, everything you need :)

spotlightwiring.jpg


You only need one fuse for your power circuit, mount it as close to the battery as possible.
The main beam trigger from the stalk (i talked about earlier) is already suitably fused.

that "optional isolator switch" isnt actually optional - it's required or else your mains would be on whenever the fogs were on as you'd be back feeding them

the only way you'd be able to have the fogs on (and the mains off) would be to isolate the mains feed from the connection to the coil live

and you should fuse protect the relay coil
 
Diagrams make things danting for me for some reason. When I have wires/fuse/switch in hand for some reason it seems more obvious and less complicated to me!
 
Sean.. well spoted..
but as MHM says, don't like to cut corners, I also like a job properly done, so for the sake of a tenner I might "invest" on that switch and do a proper job of it...

I shouldn't have bought that wiring kit from the seller! doesnt even come with fuses.. ho well, live and learn, next time I'll just hang on till I have time to get to a proper shop..
 
[JP];774645 said:
Sean.. well spoted..
but as MHM says, don't like to cut corners, I also like a job properly done, so for the sake of a tenner I might "invest" on that switch and do a proper job of it...

I shouldn't have bought that wiring kit from the seller! doesnt even come with fuses.. ho well, live and learn, next time I'll just hang on till I have time to get to a proper shop..

you do know that MHM is going to want to rewire your entire vehicle ....
 
Ho yes please!!! hahaha
He might be able to tell me what are the so many wires and plugs that I have hanging, not connected to anything... but that's what happens buying second hand!
 
Nope, thats just basic paint!

the 'optional' isolator switch is only optional if you're not putting the override switch on...
 
quick update..

thanks to everyone on this, spot lights are not fitted yet, but all the wiring and switches have been tested and all is working fine, just need to bolt the bar on the roof and run the wires in, all the rest is in place.

In the end I took the live for the main beam from the back of the fuse box, it's behind fuse A3 or A4 (it has the main beam symbol on it)

thanks!
 
[JP];777072 said:
In the end I took the live for the main beam from the back of the fuse box, it's behind fuse A3 or A4 (it has the main beam symbol on it)

That's where i was trying to describe... you made it sound much easier!
 

Similar threads