kato Disco

Well-Known Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #1

What is the best way to remove the cable from the transfer box. I can see only 1 nut but it is well rounded and pretty much inaccessible. Any tips?

Found the reason for it not working in the first place, some one had routed it past the exhaust and melted it!


Cheers

 

G

gse1986

Active Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #2

either middle seat floor panel up, or from underneath. if its rounded then probably some bolt grippers (irwin I recommend) and some patience.

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #3

10mm socket on an extension preferaaly 1/4 drive and dont undo all the way leave nut just on can be a bugger to refit and pull retainer up preferably with a telescopic magnet

 

kato Disco

Well-Known Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #4

That's great thanks, am off to give it a try.

 

matchmetisse

New Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #5

Fit a transducer and a td5 speedo

 

D

Dads toy

Member

• Jul 21, 2012

• #6

matchmetisse said:

Fit a transducer and a td5 speedo

Click to expand...

But you still have to get the cable out first!

 

kato Disco

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2012

• #7

Still can't get the wee fooker out

 

D

discomania

Well-Known Member

• Jul 23, 2012

• #8

I WOULD remove the nut if it has badly rounded because you are only going to make it worse for the next time.

A couple of options to get it out, get yourself a 10mm nut remover and get it out, or as the nut is on a stud, with the middle seat out and access panel off cut a slot in the middle of the stud/nut and take the whole lot out with a screw driver. Get a bolt M5 possibly although can't be sure, and cut the head off it, clean up the end (make sure you can wind a nut off the cut end) and then refit that as your stud with some copperslip on it. Now get a new nylock nut to suit.

If you get really stuck, you will need to drop the propshaft, handbrake drum, and remove the back plate giving you loads of room to work.

 

kato Disco

Well-Known Member

• Jul 24, 2012

• #9

discomania said:

I WOULD remove the nut if it has badly rounded because you are only going to make it worse for the next time.

A couple of options to get it out, get yourself a 10mm nut remover and get it out, or as the nut is on a stud, with the middle seat out and access panel off cut a slot in the middle of the stud/nut and take the whole lot out with a screw driver. Get a bolt M5 possibly although can't be sure, and cut the head off it, clean up the end (make sure you can wind a nut off the cut end) and then refit that as your stud with some copperslip on it. Now get a new nylock nut to suit.

If you get really stuck, you will need to drop the propshaft, handbrake drum, and remove the back plate giving you loads of room to work.

Click to expand...

First class, thanks

 

kato Disco

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2012

• #10

Finally got it, sorted. Well chuffed.

 

kato Disco

Well-Known Member

• Jul 27, 2012

• #11

Okay so speedo now working even though the dash had to come out about 6times as dials no longer worked, the volt meter aint workin and can't see why

The battery light isn't on when running, does this mean the alternator is ok? See other post

 

S

Steve_R1979

Active Member

• Jul 27, 2012

• #12

kato Disco said:

Okay so speedo now working even though the dash had to come out about 6times as dials no longer worked, the volt meter aint workin and can't see why

The battery light isn't on when running, does this mean the alternator is ok? See other post

Click to expand...

Battery light isnt supposed to be on when running, so yes its OK, assuming the battery light comes on when you turn the ignition on but before you start it.

If this doesn't come on when you turn the ignition on, and then go out when the engine is running, then the light isn't working for whatever reason.