Lowbank
Active Member
I have a large deadblow, I did that on and off for over an hour.
I have left one nut on loose hoping the driving around will jar it loose.
On the point of tying a rope to a tree and putting it under tension whilst hitting it with my deadblow.
Frightened of bending the back door.
I have left one nut on loose hoping the driving around will jar it loose.
On the point of tying a rope to a tree and putting it under tension whilst hitting it with my deadblow.
Frightened of bending the back door.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's normal for lots of cars these days. A good scrub with a scotch bright pad around the wheel centre bore and drum spigot to remove the corrosion will help. If you apply some anti seize compound to the spigot and wheel, the wheels should remain easy to remove.
teddywood1
Well-Known Member
when you do get it off put some copper grease on the same goes for the wheels on the car just smear it in the centre part and around where the studs go
Rimini-Scott
Active Member
You could get a length of sturdy wood and put it on a trolley jack from underneath to give it a bit of extra persuasion.
Lowbank
Active Member
ok so left only one nut on slightly loose.
3 days of driving around and kicking the tyre several time before I got in to drive it has finally paid off.
got home today and could see the aluminium corrosion starting to come from around the holes. 10 more minutes of kicking the tyre and it finally came off.
now to prepare and paint the holder which is really badly corroded.
3 days of driving around and kicking the tyre several time before I got in to drive it has finally paid off.
got home today and could see the aluminium corrosion starting to come from around the holes. 10 more minutes of kicking the tyre and it finally came off.
now to prepare and paint the holder which is really badly corroded.
I had this problem with my Honda SUV. It was caused by putting a aluminium wheel against a metal facing. Elecrolysis starts when wet and they stick together making it a swine to get off. I got some very thin oil gasket sheets and put a gasket between wheel and drum. This stops the problem and the wheels just fall off when loosened. It also slows the rusting of the discs, drum or metal facing.
See my reply to Grumpy, fit a gasket made from oil gasket sheet. Stops the corrosion and the wheels just fall off when loosened.
Use your wheel as a template, put gasket on wheel and using a ball pean hammer rub the ball end into one of the bolt holes, cut that one out and use a bolt to loosely hold it in place. Do the rest and run a finger round the outside and inside to mark it and cut out. I learned the hard way, getting a puncture and not being able to get the wheel off while dressed up for a night out. The difference in the corrosion on brake drums etc is well worth the effort and the wheels come off really easy. Got my gasket sheets on eBay very cheap.
I have done 113,00 miles in the Honda with the gaskets fitted. Never had a wheel nut come loose, why would they if they are torqued to correct torque? The car is 15 years old and there has never been a problem with wheel alignment. The initial problem on this thread was the spare wheel binding, so no worries about nuts coming loose. Don't use copper grease, your just adding another component to the mix. I pick up my Freelander today and it will be one of the first jobs I do. By the way, the gaskets are wafer thin. Having been involved with electrolysis problems on ships, submarines, jetties and oil rigs I know that no compound will stop it or many layers of paint. You put two dissimilar metals together, add the electrolyte ( salt water off the road ) and you have a battery that will corrode and bind them together.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
You mention "ships, submarines, jetties and oil rigs" but you forgot Land Rover (eg Discovery) where the ally panels meet steel frames and corrode.
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
Best thing to use where differing metals touch - especially Aluminium to steel (imho) is a product called 'Duralac'. We used this on our 'yott' whilst living aboard for over 10 years. Used it for all fittings to the alloy mast and anywhere else aluminium touched steel or stainless steel. Never had any issues with electrolytic corrosion at all.
As used in the aircraft industry as well. One small tube will last you a lifetime.Ideal for wheels to hubs etc. - would also work well on ally panels to frames me thinks....
Still have my original small tube of it (about the size of a toothpase tube) from over 12 years ago - been used for allsorts and you only need a tiny bit. Specially made for the job !
http://www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/downloads/duralac.pdf
Joe
As used in the aircraft industry as well. One small tube will last you a lifetime.Ideal for wheels to hubs etc. - would also work well on ally panels to frames me thinks....
Still have my original small tube of it (about the size of a toothpase tube) from over 12 years ago - been used for allsorts and you only need a tiny bit. Specially made for the job !
http://www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/downloads/duralac.pdf
Joe
