Security would be my concern. Early FL1's suffered with rear wheels being nicked. The scum doing it used a gripping device to pull the security nut oft, which broke the threaded bar stud thing. I recall it being a warning int LRO int late 90's as well as occasional members on ere when lz first started talking of similar happening to them.

The D3, D4 and RR's from that era onwards all have wheels underneath and suffer from them being stolen.

The FL2 doesn't suffer the same as the wheel is int side under the boot floor. But if yer put it at the rear ont display then it will become a target I would think.
 
Security would be my concern. Early FL1's suffered with rear wheels being nicked. The scum doing it used a gripping device to pull the security nut oft, which broke the threaded bar stud thing. I recall it being a warning int LRO int late 90's as well as occasional members on ere when lz first started talking of similar happening to them.

The D3, D4 and RR's from that era onwards all have wheels underneath and suffer from them being stolen.

The FL2 doesn't suffer the same as the wheel is int side under the boot floor. But if yer put it at the rear ont display then it will become a target I would think.
I am already looking at security measures to make it unattractive to attempt to steal it. Thanks for the heads up on the method they use to steal them. I think on that basis, instead of using standard studs, I will go with 12.9 grade bolts and tamper proof nuts. They have more chance of dating the pope than snapping them off with any tool :cool:
 
I am already looking at security measures to make it unattractive to attempt to steal it. Thanks for the heads up on the method they use to steal them. I think on that basis, instead of using standard studs, I will go with 12.9 grade bolts and tamper proof nuts. They have more chance of dating the pope than snapping them off with any tool :cool:
I think they use the same magic tools the aa and rac use these days to "release" wheels. At least there's a lot more combinations.
 
I think they use the same magic tools the aa and rac use these days to "release" wheels. At least there's a lot more combinations.

If I knew how to pit pictures in the post or had a 12 year old near by to teach me how, I would show you what I had in mind - they are not normally used in the automotive trade and you have to be on a register to own a removal tool :)

Nothing I will do will make it theft proof, short of strapping an armed insomniac SAS soldier on the wheel :eek:, but it should deter most.
 
I am already looking at security measures to make it unattractive to attempt to steal it. Thanks for the heads up on the method they use to steal them. I think on that basis, instead of using standard studs, I will go with 12.9 grade bolts and tamper proof nuts. They have more chance of dating the pope than snapping them off with any tool :cool:

Could be done easily. Make the release side of the nuts towards the tail gate side. Means you have access to it when you swing the arm open and rest of the time it's secure. In fact it could work nicely especially if you have the face of the rim pointing towards the vehicle body, you could in theory then also use the space inside the alloy as a storage bin of sorts.
 

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