BEFORE: If you have good speakers you'd hear the un-proofed panel has a dull resonance (thuds and resonates for a few miliseconds).

BEFORE-VIDEO

AFTER: You should be able to hear that the dullness is gone.

AFTER-VIDEO

As per previous post, mid-cab panels, seat boxes and dash are getting done today. Have plenty more photos if you want anything specific. Will be finished end of next month, so actual numbers are on the way...

Alm.

Well it's certainly made a diference at this level. I hope it makes a difference when you're on the road!

AJJackson1 said:

Well it's certainly made a diference at this level. I hope it makes a difference when you're on the road!

Click to expand...

Looking forward to getting up to 70mph for a test run, then finding out one of the UJs is short a few needles, or exhaust is blowing.

Alm.

Finished re-wiring main loom, and re-assembly of dash, now with proofing.
Numbers on the same commute run, same road, same direction, same-ish weather, same car:

Max. reading: 92 dB (decrease of 10 dB)
Average reading: 84 dB (decrease of 8 dB)

Worth noting I took the same sort of "measurement" in a 2010 VW Golf 1.6TDI (missus' car) and it gave these numbers:
Max. reading: 91 dB
Average reading: 78 dB

Whilst 8 dB average doesn't sound like a lot (google will tell you it's the equivalent of a mouse having a pi55), dB is a logarithmic scale, meaning that as a delta it is a change in the power by a factor of around 5 times...

In an attempt to try to qualitatively describe the difference in noise, I'd say it's noticeably better, frequencies are a lot lower and are dull (no reverb, echo or rattle at all). This means that you can speak and be heard fairly easily; it's a massive change at speeds between 10-50mph (it's easily comparable to a modern vehicle). I think the project was was worth the cost (less than £90) and effort (needed to strip out car for refurbishment anyway).

The areas I've not done are the door cards and roof -I have a pretty decent head lining as it is, but there's no rush. I've already got the standard LR bonnet liner, but might refurb this as it's frayed to hell.

In the meantime I have some chassis welding to do, kenlowe install, timing belt change and window tinting to get through...

Will post the cab pics this weekend.

Alm.

Cheers for the update Almonds. Great idea comparing it to the Golf as well. I'm glad it's made a decent difference, too. I guess you've made up my decision as to whether to do it to mine or not!

AJJackson1 said:

Cheers for the update Almonds. Great idea comparing it to the Golf as well. I'm glad it's made a decent difference, too. I guess you've made up my decision as to whether to do it to mine or not!

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Let me know if you're close to Bicester, I still have some of the 3M stuff and PE foam left over -haven't done roof or side panels, but there will be lots to spare. Would be willing to part with these for a beer or twelve

Alm.

Almonds said:

Let me know if you're close to Bicester, I still have some of the 3M stuff and PE foam left over -haven't done roof or side panels, but there will be lots to spare. Would be willing to part with these for a beer or twelve

Alm.

Click to expand...

How funny. I've been following this thread thinking "Interesting, I wish I could see this and get some tips" - And I'm in Bicester. Any chance for a meet up for a look?

That's very kind of you, Almonds, unfortunately that's quite a large trek for me. I'll just buy it from Amazon or something. How much did you buy as a matter of interest? It sounds like TheJoker may take you up on your kind offer though.

Amazon is best bet for the 3M stuff. My 110 needed 16 large pads (500 x 500), which cost a hair over £60. The 7mm PE was £18 for more than required.

Alm.

Excellent. thanks very much for that mate. I hope it makes the same difference to mine.

Don't mean to wake this zombie thread (its not too old) but today I am going to Rubber Matting, Rubber Extrusions, Rubber Sheeting - Coruba to decide between their EVA closed cell foam sheeting and their Styrene Butadiene rubber regarding floor and walls of the hardtop.

I am planning to glue foam or rubber in, then glue ribbed carpet on top.

Make sure any foam you use is true closed cell, anything else can absorb water and will lead to rust in a Landy! Ideally you need a combination of foam, rubber and a butyl compound. Foam will reduce over all noise travel, butyl will reduce vibration on pannels and the rubber will absorb/reduce sound.

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I finally started doing the soundproofing on mine and getting some really good results with this mixture -

Fatmat Xtreme
3mm Closed Cell Foam
10mm Rubber

Got some new-ish bulkhead rubber mats for the 90, tore out the terrible open cell foam LR put in and replaced it all with 3mm closed cell foam. Worked a treat. Then covered the drivers side footwell and transmission tunnel with FatMat Xtreme (£150 for 50sq/ft) then carpet mats on top.

Fitted the new rubber over the top and prevented sagging with the use of HD Velcro!

The difference in noise was instantly noticable, much quiter. I plan to do the passenger side, seat box, roof, rear arches, boot floor, pillars and doors. (Pillars & Doors will also have 6mm closed cell foam fitted aswell. Also going to do some of the middle bulkhead on the cab side to reduce the re-verb coming off my sub.

Re-covered headlineings will go back in and be pinned in the center and HD Velcro at the sides to prevent sagging. May add some 8mm closed cell foam over the FatMat for further sound proofing but havnt decided yet.

Finally the bonnet will have FatMat covering the entire inside and may in the future FatMat the engine side of the bulkhead but thats a rather large job...

All the stuff im putting in will not hold water and is water resistant so no rust issues! Should be as quiet as a Disco maybe even an RR!

Total cost will be around £200 (£150 for the FatMat and £50 for the foam) Pretty damn cheap I think considerinf it should greatly reduce both noise and vibration.

Bankz that sounds v.promising! Let us know how you get on.
Anyone the wiser about reducing the wind noise at speed -other than plugging the holes in my rusty bulkhead...?

Alm.

Thanks! I aim to be done by the end of September. However the roof/side pannels will have to wait until my garage is finished. So I remove the pannels and add the sound proofing more evenley and securely.

Slowly creating what I believe to be the perfect Defender. Added up all the bits and bobs to buy comes to £4k inc a new paintjob and sorting the various landy.

Wind deflectors on the side windows help.