Landyfox

Well-Known Member
Okey I will start by apologising for yet another chassis thread question. :)

Righty ho....early next year I am looking at replacing my existing chassis for a galvanised one. My dilemma is that unfortunately I don't have sufficient space at home to do this and therefore I am looking at hiring a unit with electric's for 4-6 weeks. I intend taking two weeks holiday from work to dedicate to the project, thereafter I will be spending time in the evenings and at weekends.

Realistically, is this sufficient time to strip my current 1994 90, prep axels and new suspension so on before rebuilding on a new chassis. Before leaving I would like to have a go at a spray job!!! :)
 
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I would say yes. if you get yourself organised before time ie: having all replacement nuts and bolts, any non chassis bits that have rusted away that need to be replaced, body crossmembers, body to chassis brackets etc etc seeing as you have a new chassis, full bushing kit.... new rad maybe, coolant pipes, brake lines etc etc etc...

If you have everything ordered and sitting there ready to go, you will save yourself a massive amount of time.

depending on your plans re: spraying depending on space, you could possibly pull the whole body off in one go and spray it in one piece while working on the chassis as well!
 
I would say yes. if you get yourself organised before time ie: having all replacement nuts and bolts, any non chassis bits that have rusted away that need to be replaced, body crossmembers, body to chassis brackets etc etc seeing as you have a new chassis, full bushing kit.... new rad maybe, coolant pipes, brake lines etc etc etc...

If you have everything ordered and sitting there ready to go, you will save yourself a massive amount of time.

depending on your plans re: spraying depending on space, you could possibly pull the whole body off in one go and spray it in one piece while working on the chassis as well!

I think I should start noting down everything I will need - Ideally I'm hoping to source a solid TD5 tub as my current one is a little worse for wear. What adjustments would I need to make to the chassis in order to fit a TD5 rear tub.?!

I'm not one of these folks that looking for a sparkling landy, just a solid looking and reliable truck.

I'm actually intending selling my fully restored classic tax exempt Beetle to fund this overhaul, originally I was going to PX it for an early series 1/2 project vehicle, however there are few around and folks would prefer the cash at this time of year, despite the beetle valued a £3200 :)
 
id reckon youd need more time if your doing full nut and bolt rebuild,unless you have everything ready ,tubs fit the same
 
Have you considered things like engine hoists, where to hire from (if need be) and how to get them there etc
 
I'm hope to have everything in place before starting!! I would very much doubt I could afford to hire a unit for anything more than 8 weeks.
 
It's doable but as said have every thing ready, Although undoubtedly there will be unforeseen problems.

Depends how many hours a day you're going to do and is any one going to be helping you?

Are you going to be painting every thing before you put it back on? Things can soon get out of control with not wanting to put rusty looking bits back on your brand new chassis.
(I know I didn't want to)

And as for Td5 tub, You need to find a way to connect the filler up as it's in a deferent position.
 
20 people could do it over a weekend
one person will need 40days
5.7 weeks

you need 19 friends
 
It's doable but as said have every thing ready, Although undoubtedly there will be unforeseen problems.

Depends how many hours a day you're going to do and is any one going to be helping you?

Are you going to be painting every thing before you put it back on? Things can soon get out of control with not wanting to put rusty looking bits back on your brand new chassis.
(I know I didn't want to)

And as for Td5 tub, You need to find a way to connect the filler up as it's in a deferent position.

Failing that I coming to you for painting. :p:D

20 people could do it over a weekend
one person will need 40days
5.7 weeks

you need 19 friends

Okey I'm recruiting now....and your name is.?! Lol :D
 
Ive just done mine, full nut and bolt, galv chassis and bulkhead, and unlike 99% of the tinkering ****s out there I used copious amounts of COPPERSLIP yes COPPERSLIP, think of the poor sod who has to work on it in ten years time, and unless you've rebuilt one recently and have had lots of practice, it will take you at least two months:eek:
 
Not good, would not be an issue if I could rent some suitable workspace for a reasonable price. This way 8-12weeks would be acceptable. :)

I think I need to advertise for workspace for 3-4 month.
 
Just re-chassis-ed my 110 Hi Cap and we reckon it took around 120 man hours. The rest of the truck was basically OK, so it was a straight case of removal and replacement, with the obvious exceptions of all new bushes, clutch, brake hoses etc.

I know it's tempting to try and do everything at the same time, but realistically, things like axles you can drop off and do pretty much anytime without special facilities, so perhaps not worth paying unit rent for extended time for such add ons.

We found the following in the course of doing ours ---

Arm Bushes -- very, very tight. Would have been hopeless without a good press.

Engine and 'box removal (300 Tdi). Awkward, heavy and lop sided. If you get it slung right for removal it wont be right for clutch change and vice versa. Extra pairs of hands definitely helpful.

Truck Cab removal. Took it off complete (less wings / inner wings). Quite heavy and you need a good gantry or rig with adequate height. Slung it under the front chassis brackets and rear cab crossmember. Worked OK but distorted the bracket a little. Easily tapped back. If you have a dicky bulkhead, might not be so simple an option.

On reassembly, didn't bother trying to feed a harness through the chassis as for our use I can't see the point.

When you're rounding bits up, double check everything you're given. One of the well known aftermarket suppliers we used cost us hours in wasted time, returning incorrect items. Depending how much rust you have, invest in a grinder and some good drifts. It's just not worth trying to undo badly seized fastenings. Lop them off and fit new. If you have bolts seized in bush sleeves, some serious heat, used safely, is a good tool.

Good luck with it.

Mike.
 
you can do the bulk of the rebuild in the unit in 8 weeks then do the little bits you have left at home, youll get it all in one bit in 8 weeks easy, mines taken so long waiting for parts so make sure youve made all your phone calls and booked places, paint shops, ordered parts early
 
Me too. I've thought about extending it, then I think it would probably be cheaper to just move somewhere with outbuildings. Then I think about when we 10 years ago and I said I would never move again!
 
Me too. I've thought about extending it, then I think it would probably be cheaper to just move somewhere with outbuildings. Then I think about when we 10 years ago and I said I would never move again!

Hiring a small unit is looking a distinct possibility, would be good to store my beetle there and will be ideal when I eventually source a series 1/2.
 

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