H

Hungrydave

New Member
I've got a '97 110 300tdi which has adopted a new annoying habit. Typically after running and then turning it off for 5-15 mins, it won't start. The engine is turning over and battery is strong but it won't fire. If I leave it for a few minutes it then fires up fine.

Anyone got any ideas what could be causing it? It's done it 3 or 4 times in the last week.

Off to Switzerland with it in a few weeks and don't fancy it playing up halfway up a mountain pass!

Thanks
 
Next time it wont start leave the ignition on, lift the bonnet and pull the wire of the injection pump stop solenoid and see if it makes a clickinh noise this will show if it has power or not, if its got power best to remove the stop solenoid and have a look inside at the spring and washer seal.
What you dont want to see is any metal swarf indicating the injector pump is breaking up internally.
If it doesnt click either its knackered or you have a power supply problem.


Lynall
 
My money would be on a bad electrical connection to the solenoid valve.

A mate of mine had one, where his disco was a sod to start, so I asked him to "turn it over" while I looked under the bonnect (in the dark).

I could see the solenoid wire arcing on the terminal, with movement of the engine - effectively cutting fuel in/out all the time.

Mark
 
This is still causing a problem from time to time. The advice about seeing whether it clicks when tapping the wire against the stop solenoid connection was useful. When it wont start there is initially no clicking but it rectifies itself after a minute or so (possibly helped along by turning the ignition off and on a few times).

On top of this, the engine cut out when my wife was driving this today (uphill in 4th). It then wouldn't start, as above, then all was good. She was a little spooked to lose power assisted steering and brakes so time to get it fixed.

Bear with me - I'm new to engines!...

Is it possible that a bad connection to the solenoid could make it cut out?

Is it likely to be the wire leading to the stop solenoid or the solenoid itself?

How would I find out?

And... If it's the wire, how easy is it for a vaguely competent novice to sort?

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

David
 
As its a late disco it will have the spider immobiliser unit in the dash the solder joints break up and you get this problem, try a google for more info.
I should have mentioned this before but to be honest i forgot!
Lots of people have bypassed it.


Lynall
 
Thanks - it's a defender though, does this still apply? Had a little look online and says that defenders have them in the battery compartment - before hacking it out, are they plagued by the same problem. Would guess they are.
 
I suppose the simplest test would be to add another wire to the injector pump stop solenoid run it into the cabin, to the cigarette lighter, then when it wont start plug it in and see if it then starts.
If it makes no difference i would pull the stop solenoid out and have a look inside, if theres no swarf about fit a new solenoid, if theres swarf start looking for an injection pump.
I dont know why i thought it was a disco!


Lynall
 
Thanks - I took the spider out last night and it did have a few cracked solders. I re soldered them (with very limited skill) and touch wood no problems thus far. Frustratingly, it happened sporadically so I won't know if it's sorted for a while yet!
 
hope its been fine!
stop solonoid loosing power would kill a running engine as that is what it is designed to do...
mine did same in middle of nowhere no tools nothing, in end cut a carphone charger apart to get 12 volts from battery to solonoid and it got me home.
Found the spider was at fault with dry joints inside resoldered then never done it since:)
 
i had the same problem sometimes not starting and then waiting for an unkown time before it would start again usually blocking fuel forecourt i took spider out last night and soldered so fingers crossed aswell again all seem ok so far only time will tell
 
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