MrWorf

MrWorf

Member
Apologies for raking up an old subject, but be assured I've read all the posts on the subject before posting in desperation. I've just had a galvanised chassis rebuild, so I'm in too deep to give up on this.
My 1999 TD5 has been temperamental to start (turning over but no firing) since I had it in March, but it's now worse since the rebuild.
The poor guy (land rover specialist) tried to fix it while he'd got it but with no success. Between us we've done the following :
Injector O-rings and copper washers.
fuel pressure regulator
Replaced fuel pump with one that we know is good.
Air bleed valve x2
New fuel filter housing
tried injectors and ECU from another car
changed potentially diesel contaminated oil.
new ignition barrel
IF it's going to start it's most likely when it's cold. (it's a gamble though), but now, when it's been running for say 5 mins and you stop it and try again - nothing. It will keep just turning over.
HOWEVER, spray "cold start" at the air filter - and away she goes !!
I've got a cheap after market crank position sensor on order - Do you think this is my last hope of curing the problem ? Am I on the right track ? I'm counting on this being the problem as I've run out of options.
When it DOES run, it runs well. No smoke at all, pulls well and sounds like a TD5 should. (hence investing in the Chassis).
Hoping you can offer me some encouragement on the Crank sensor front or may be there's something I might have missed. Many thanks.
 
was going to say you could borrow my nanaocom and try reading any faullts or use it while running the motor to see if theres any issues with the injectors or imobiliser but your a tad far for me to bring it to you
 
Thank you for your thoughtful offer - I'll ask rebuild guy whether this was done though - Thanks.
Should have mentioned - also changed the injector loom too.
 
No Kev12 I haven't. Presumably this would be done by using a multi-tester (volt meter) across the battery terminals ?? That's an interesting take on it I haven;t read before. - Thank you. Can I guess that a big drop in voltage just means I need a battery or starter perhaps ?
 
When it's cranking but not starting do you get any lights missing on dash and maybe fuel temp shoots up to the red?

Edit typo, coolant temp gauge, not fuel
 
Last edited:
MrWorf said:
No Kev12 I haven't. Presumably this would be done by using a multi-tester (volt meter) across the battery terminals ?? That's an interesting take on it I haven;t read before. - Thank you. Can I guess that a big drop in voltage just means I need a battery or starter perhaps ?
Click to expand...
Could be either of those or engine to chassis earth maybe, i think it's under 10.5 volts the injectors don't work
 
I dont 1988Smithy, no odd lights or warnings. But I'm guessing you're thinking Fuel temp sensor. Would that stop it starting though ? . I've read that if it's failed it reverts to default 60 degrees (ecu pre-programmed). It's worth me looking into though - Thank you.
 
Thank you guys. This gives me a couple more angles to try.
ie. Voltage drop could cause injectors not to fire- (until cold start kick in and alternator provides the voltage they require)
Or Fuel sensor (presumably temp sensor) - which I'm hoping is easy to replace.
Never the less - a couple more avenues to try - Thanks.
 
MrWorf said:
I dont 1988Smithy, no odd lights or warnings. But I'm guessing you're thinking Fuel temp sensor. Would that stop it starting though ? . I've read that if it's failed it reverts to default 60 degrees (ecu pre-programmed). It's worth me looking into though - Thank you.
Click to expand...

No, mine cranks but won't start intermittently, with just battery light on dash and temp gauge goes up to the red. Mine's the blue block connector under drivers seat, wiggle it and it starts.

I was thinking along the lines of a bad earth or connection somewhere that's been made worse by the rebuild.

Doesn't explain it starting on easy start tho, which others have pointed towards fuelling.

As mentioned start with battery and check all earth points, voltages Tec

I don't think td5 needs fuel temp to start, fairly sure it's coolant temp amongst other things but both sensors are identical you can get 2 for about £10 and they're easy to change out.

Coolant temp sensor is front right hand side of the head as you look at the engine by the lifting eye and fuel temp sensor is in the FPR rear right hand side of head. 19mm spanner.
 
Thank you Johnlad, What RPM should I have ? What indicates a bad starter ?
It rings true that it starts with cold-start (ie the injectors don't have to fire until the starter has stopped turning).
Might be worth just biting the bullet and getting battery and starter.
 
MrWorf said:
Thank you Johnlad, What RPM should I have ? What indicates a bad starter ?
It rings true that it starts with cold-start (ie the injectors don't have to fire until the starter has stopped turning).
Might be worth just biting the bullet and getting battery and starter.
Click to expand...

Td5s do like a good battery, starter can be refurbished cheaply. Search eBay for td5 starter kit about £15
 
It's given me hope - just having some options to explore. Thanks so much everyone that's replied (and on a Saturday night !)
This can't beat me - or the "dog house" will be luxury compared to where I'm heading !!
 
A td5 only needs the crank signal to start.

Manual or auto?
If its manual can you bump start it /tow start it and see if it fires straight away....then fit a starter motor
If its auto.......fit a starter motor anyway.... its interference from the starter corrupting the crank signal. :)
Your easy start is similar as it is the fuel with no injectors having to work...and as it fired on easy start you let the key go ...the starter stops turning....the crank signal is not corrupt now so the pcm starts firing the injectors
 
MrWorf said:
Thank you Johnlad, What RPM should I have ? What indicates a bad starter ?
It rings true that it starts with cold-start (ie the injectors don't have to fire until the starter has stopped turning).
Might be worth just biting the bullet and getting battery and starter.
Click to expand...
If it’s a manual you can confirm starter motor fault by tow starting,
I believe you should get rpm around 235rpm on cranking if using diagnostic
 
I've only had trouble starting my TD5 for 2 reasons

1. Old fuel filter - I was amazed at the impact replacing it had (but I'm sure you've done that)
2. Crank sensor loose connection - Its the really important one - if that's not working you are going nowhere (you've ordered that)
 
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