Simon Perks

Simon Perks

Active Member
Gents,
Having just completed the head gasket change on my sons Freelander (1.8 petrol) we now seem not to be able to get it to start.
We checked the timing on the cam sprockets before and as we hadn't moved the crank at all until we rotated the engine by hand to check it I'm pretty certain that we are not out there.
However there is no sign of ignition and upon doing a spark test ( plug out and earthed) all we get is a very dull orange weak looking spark.
My first thought is coil and by pulling the HT lead all we got to jump was the same weak orange spark ( although it was enough to make my son swear like a trooper!) Ouch!
Plugs were wet so we have fuel and i'm thinking that if the timing was out and we had a decent spark there would have been coughs splutters and a backfire.

So a couple of questions:
If we have to re align crank with cams, will putting the car in gear be enough to enable us to loosen the crank bolt?
Could it also be a dodgy connection somewhere on the wiring loom causing the injectors to drip and not squirt?

Otherwise any thoughts?

Alpine greetings

Simon & Gwydion
 
Aha.. you do know that you don't align cams at TDC ?? Align to mark on plastic back plate behind crank pulley. Mark is just east of vertical. Assuming correct pulley fitted.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Aha.. you do know that you don't align cams at TDC ?? Align to mark on plastic back plate behind crank pulley. Mark is just east of vertical. Assuming correct pulley fitted.
Click to expand...
No we don’t know this, this our first Freelander, I’m a series 3 guy, as far as I understand you correctly we line up the cam sprockets to those two marks and the lower mark on the crank should match… I’m still thinking it’s spark though but please tell us more

simon
 
Last edited:
andyfreelandy said:
Correct. All in Haynes manual. Will try to link a photo but website isn't letting you at present.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EStxjWCrV9unWfxB9
Click to expand...
Thanks Andy, we found there is indeed a stamped mark on the crank pulley and although we haven't been able to look (see) the other marks on the cover I can feel it is there, the plastic inner wing cover is in the way and its started snowing again up here so time out for today.
Coil is on order from paddocks and if that doesn't do the trick we will check the timing.
 
I suppose the question is, did you disassemble with the cam pulleys set together as shown ? If so, and you didn't move the crank, then all should be well. But if you set the crank to TDC and then set then pulleys then that is incorrect.
 
andyfreelandy said:
I suppose the question is, did you disassemble with the cam pulleys set together as shown ? If so, and you didn't move the crank, then all should be well. But if you set the crank to TDC and then set then pulleys then that is incorrect.
Click to expand...
We did indeed set them as shown and didn't move the crank. so I'm still going with spark but we'll check it
 
kermit_rr said:
It's possible for the starter to pull enough power to crank but not much left for a strong spark
Click to expand...
We fully charged the battery and heated the plugs with a gas torch before sunday's try and it did fire on the first turn when the plugs were still hot, so i'm thinking the combination of hot plug and weak spark was enough for it to cough just the once.
New coil is on order
the snow is now deep and the temperature too cold so we will wait until next weekend
Thanks lads

Simon and GP
 
As said previously check all the easiest stuff first re electrics. Also double check to make sure all the HT leads are going to the right spark plugs.

Col
 
Gents, so we had success today the Landy is running like a dream.
We found that the timing was out, we reset the timing using the lower pulley mark and setting the cam sprockets as per the workshop manual and not back as we took them off, the inlet (LH) and the exhaust (RH) lined up, we contact cleaned all the connectors and fitted the new coil, she started on the first turn.
Temp came up to the middle after 5 minutes or so and although there is a little moisture sign on the oil filler cap I put this down to having not cleaned the oil pan but just changed the oil so this must be residue from before.
After a short test drive the exhaust cleared up.

So thanks for all the help.

Simon & Gwydion
 
Thanks for closing the thread out. Can you please add 'Solved' in the title ?



Odd that it was wrong before. Some things are a mystery !!

Glad you got there.
 
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