xpuser8334
Active Member
Does the ARB need to come off when I drop the engine on a 2003 TD4???
Thanks
Thanks
xpuser8334
Active Member
Cheers Dave,
One other point to note.... I disconnected the ball and sockets from the gear linkage on the "car" side - but i still had to drop the 2x M8 bolts holding the gear linkage brackets in place..
now the engine is out... i can really get into the engine bay and get some sorting done..
need to look for an air con pipe now.... badly corroded and broken :-(
One other point to note.... I disconnected the ball and sockets from the gear linkage on the "car" side - but i still had to drop the 2x M8 bolts holding the gear linkage brackets in place..
now the engine is out... i can really get into the engine bay and get some sorting done..
need to look for an air con pipe now.... badly corroded and broken :-(
xpuser8334
Active Member
For people wanting to do this properly (and DAVE helped here absolutely loads...Thanks for the advice)
You will need....
A trolley capable of carrying 700KGs of engine, box and IRD combined (i used a pallet truck and pallet)
A two post lift or two trolley jacks and lots of concrete blocks and wood for safely chocking up the car.
Preferably an engine crane (hireable for a week for about 35-40quid) - any old mini-digger to hand will suffice! - lol
WITH WHEELS ON:-
Unfasten CV HUB Nut.... some are 32mm some are 36mm ??????
have someone on the brakes if it helps..
I had to use a 3/4 socket set and scaffold tube to crack mine off..
loosen wheel nuts prior to jacking up the car.
FROM ABOVE:-
remove battery leads i didn't remove the battery or batt box... it can JUST be done with this in place.
remove the pipes on the bulkhead into the heater matrix (onto the IRD and back of the engine)
remove intercooler pipe (OSF of radiator)
remove the intercooler (EGR pipe)
Remove the plastic air duct on the top of the engine
Remove Coolant Pipe OSF of Radiator
remove the "hose clipped" pipe from the PAS pump and insert a 3/8 extension bar into the end, sealing it..
remove the banjo bolt from the PAS pump (21mm) use a balloon or a latex glove to cover the end of the pipe.
remove the header tank 3/8 hose from the bottom of the tank.
open up the ECU box but undoing the allen bolts
disconnect the Injector wiring harness
disconnect the clips at the top of the ECU from the second engine loom harness (3 or 4 connectors need to come out)
fold wiring looms back onto the top of the engine.
fasten chain onto lifting eyes on the engine.(i used an old seat belt)
disconnect pipe at vacuum pipe
carefully disconnect any vacuum pipes that go onto other parts of the car.
disconnect the Clutch QR connector.
unfasten battery earth from top of the gearbox
unfasten battery positive from starter motor and replace the nut after the wire is off.
FROM WHERE EVER IS EASIEST:-
Disconnect Hill Decent at rear of gear box above NS CV Joint (GETRAG - Green Wires)
Disconnect Reverse Switch
FROM BELOW:-
remove 2x 15mm bolts at either side (in the rear bosh of the front wishbone)
remove the bottom ball joints
remove the ARB drop link from the ARB
OPTIONAL - remove track rod end from suspension leg - this will give more movement for removing the CV Joint from the hub.
remove rear engine mounting "E" Bolt and 18mm or 15mm (can't remember) to drop the "Dog Bone(ish)" mounting.
Bungee Cord the middle section of the exhaust to stop it dropping - otherwise it may split the rest of the rubbers along the exhaust.
remove the front exhaust rubber.
unbolt 3x 15mm bolts from the downpipe to the midpipe (DPF) flange
remove 2x 18MM bolts (one at either side) from bottom subframe... - if on a car lift, use a transmittion jack to take the weight - if on the floor, use a trolley jack.
lower subframe out of the way.
disconnect ball rods from gear linkage.
(Additional part to save gear linkage from damage) - Remove gear linkage from bulkhead and under gear lever....... mine had to be replaced as the lever was bent as the engine came out... also give opportunity to lubricate / grease etc.
disconnect bottom radiator to steel pipe
remove aircon pump - or pipes from air con pump if the gas has already escaped for one reason or another.
BACK UP TO THE TOP:-
take weight of engine by using lifting crane / mini-digger / block and tackle - (some people do this with a trolley jack... you can,,, but it's a pain in the ar5e)
once weight is taken - double check all pipes, wires etc are off
lift car slightly and raise crane arm at the same time until the car is approximately 2 to 3feet off the floor (if doing this with jacks, block the car up at this point.)
unfasten 4x 15mm bolts on the OS of the engine from the aluminium mounting bracket onto the head. the engine may sway at this point.
unfasten the long through bolt on the gear box mounting just under the battery box.
push trolley / pallet truck under the engine / gearbox
lower both to the trolley - gain assistance looking for pipes / cables and moving the engine away from air con hoses etc.
I hope this helps people.... this is reasonably still fresh in my mind, as the engine was "out" and back in twice last week.
You will need....
A trolley capable of carrying 700KGs of engine, box and IRD combined (i used a pallet truck and pallet)
A two post lift or two trolley jacks and lots of concrete blocks and wood for safely chocking up the car.
Preferably an engine crane (hireable for a week for about 35-40quid) - any old mini-digger to hand will suffice! - lol
WITH WHEELS ON:-
Unfasten CV HUB Nut.... some are 32mm some are 36mm ??????
have someone on the brakes if it helps..
I had to use a 3/4 socket set and scaffold tube to crack mine off..
loosen wheel nuts prior to jacking up the car.
FROM ABOVE:-
remove battery leads i didn't remove the battery or batt box... it can JUST be done with this in place.
remove the pipes on the bulkhead into the heater matrix (onto the IRD and back of the engine)
remove intercooler pipe (OSF of radiator)
remove the intercooler (EGR pipe)
Remove the plastic air duct on the top of the engine
Remove Coolant Pipe OSF of Radiator
remove the "hose clipped" pipe from the PAS pump and insert a 3/8 extension bar into the end, sealing it..
remove the banjo bolt from the PAS pump (21mm) use a balloon or a latex glove to cover the end of the pipe.
remove the header tank 3/8 hose from the bottom of the tank.
open up the ECU box but undoing the allen bolts
disconnect the Injector wiring harness
disconnect the clips at the top of the ECU from the second engine loom harness (3 or 4 connectors need to come out)
fold wiring looms back onto the top of the engine.
fasten chain onto lifting eyes on the engine.(i used an old seat belt)
disconnect pipe at vacuum pipe
carefully disconnect any vacuum pipes that go onto other parts of the car.
disconnect the Clutch QR connector.
unfasten battery earth from top of the gearbox
unfasten battery positive from starter motor and replace the nut after the wire is off.
FROM WHERE EVER IS EASIEST:-
Disconnect Hill Decent at rear of gear box above NS CV Joint (GETRAG - Green Wires)
Disconnect Reverse Switch
FROM BELOW:-
remove 2x 15mm bolts at either side (in the rear bosh of the front wishbone)
remove the bottom ball joints
remove the ARB drop link from the ARB
OPTIONAL - remove track rod end from suspension leg - this will give more movement for removing the CV Joint from the hub.
remove rear engine mounting "E" Bolt and 18mm or 15mm (can't remember) to drop the "Dog Bone(ish)" mounting.
Bungee Cord the middle section of the exhaust to stop it dropping - otherwise it may split the rest of the rubbers along the exhaust.
remove the front exhaust rubber.
unbolt 3x 15mm bolts from the downpipe to the midpipe (DPF) flange
remove 2x 18MM bolts (one at either side) from bottom subframe... - if on a car lift, use a transmittion jack to take the weight - if on the floor, use a trolley jack.
lower subframe out of the way.
disconnect ball rods from gear linkage.
(Additional part to save gear linkage from damage) - Remove gear linkage from bulkhead and under gear lever....... mine had to be replaced as the lever was bent as the engine came out... also give opportunity to lubricate / grease etc.
disconnect bottom radiator to steel pipe
remove aircon pump - or pipes from air con pump if the gas has already escaped for one reason or another.
BACK UP TO THE TOP:-
take weight of engine by using lifting crane / mini-digger / block and tackle - (some people do this with a trolley jack... you can,,, but it's a pain in the ar5e)
once weight is taken - double check all pipes, wires etc are off
lift car slightly and raise crane arm at the same time until the car is approximately 2 to 3feet off the floor (if doing this with jacks, block the car up at this point.)
unfasten 4x 15mm bolts on the OS of the engine from the aluminium mounting bracket onto the head. the engine may sway at this point.
unfasten the long through bolt on the gear box mounting just under the battery box.
push trolley / pallet truck under the engine / gearbox
lower both to the trolley - gain assistance looking for pipes / cables and moving the engine away from air con hoses etc.
I hope this helps people.... this is reasonably still fresh in my mind, as the engine was "out" and back in twice last week.
xpuser8334
Active Member
While I had all of the above stripped off, Taking Dave's advice....
i replaced the ARB Bushed
changed the drop links
replaced the wishbones
fitted new driveshafts (only britpart ones though)
replaced gear linkage
I also had the opportunity to replace all of the brake lines - but they were perfect, so I left them as they were,
If you strip a car down this far, take full advantage of the access it provides.... i even considered cleaning up under the bonnet and spraying the metalwork.. (but didnt in the end..)
No doubt..... "To Be Continued................"
i replaced the ARB Bushed
changed the drop links
replaced the wishbones
fitted new driveshafts (only britpart ones though)
replaced gear linkage
I also had the opportunity to replace all of the brake lines - but they were perfect, so I left them as they were,
If you strip a car down this far, take full advantage of the access it provides.... i even considered cleaning up under the bonnet and spraying the metalwork.. (but didnt in the end..)
No doubt..... "To Be Continued................"
