I'm surprised that so many D2's need welding!

Ours is one of the earliest built, November 1998, yet passed its MOT in July with no advisories.

Yes, the chassis starting to get crusty at the back, but we have a PlanB for that, a chassis that we bout four years ago and had shot blasted and Zinc sprayed before powder coating in matt black.

I was expecting to use it before now, but so far the original has stood up well, especially as we do a lot of heavy towing.

DiscoChassis3.jpg


Perhaps the early production chassis were better quality than later ones?

Peter
in my experience of powder coated chassis is that powder coating fracture where ever something is bolted to it ,
 
It does depend a lot on the surface finish, by the time it has been shotblasted and hot Zinc sprayed, the surface is like emery cloth!

Adhesion is very good, we use the process for some of our kit that goes outdoors:

Outdoor.jpg


Outdoor2.jpg


These are dual 29V 200A chargers.

It's pretty standard for us, we have a batch of bodies and chassis being collected tomorrow.

Peter
 
Would driving the car up one ramp only on the side I am working on make it easier to mig weld? Just thinking that it would decrease the vertical drip potential on the arm? Any thoughts welcome please.
 
Wow. Mine does not look like that at all and they say mines is not bad either. Knocked out some of the rust today. Only the bottom section of the box is rotten.
Check round the fuel tank area of the chassis,it is not easy to get to properly,but worth it,have a good prod about with a decent bar/old screwdriver.
 
Check round the fuel tank area of the chassis,it is not easy to get to properly,but worth it,have a good prod about with a decent bar/old screwdriver.[/QUthe
The mechanic had a good go at The chassis and did spot surface rust on a the inside rear leg near the fuel tank. He said that that would eventually go and it would be a fuel tank out job and a new rear portion say in 3 years time or so. I will look, at that section more closely when I am under the car doing the sides.
 
The mechanic had a good go at The chassis and did spot surface rust on a the inside rear leg near the fuel tank. He said that that would eventually go and it would be a fuel tank out job and a new rear portion say in 3 years time or so. I will look, at that section more closely when I am under the car doing the sides.
Ok,but do check it properly yourself,as it is a very common rust area,with it being awkward to check,it often gets overlooked.
 
Ok,but do check it properly yourself,as it is a very common rust area,with it being awkward to check,it often gets overlooked.

I know he has looked at the bottom of the chassis ladder frame in the area but I am going to test the sides where it touches the tank. Also looking at welding zinc pencils in that area or blocks in a tray to help keep that area protected. I don't fancy a tank out situation.
Apparently that section is £200 to buy in but labour intensive to take the tank out. Would that be correct?
 
I know he has looked at the bottom of the chassis ladder frame in the area but I am going to test the sides where it touches the tank. Also looking at welding zinc pencils in that area or blocks in a tray to help keep that area protected. I don't fancy a tank out situation.
Apparently that section is £200 to buy in but labour intensive to take the tank out. Would that be correct?
If it was me,i would not box anything in,on the chassis,just another place for rust to develop,but you cannot see it,taking the tank out,is preferable than replacing the chassis.Having a section welded in,is labour intensive,but it has to be done,if the chassis is bad enough,as mine was,unfortunately.
 

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