Be careful who you regard as "reliable hands"!! :whoosh:
Be careful who you regard as "reliable hands"!! :whoosh:
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
But bolting it to the side and sealing it. Is all that is needed when fitting a snorkel?? so why did you make the comment that you did???
Mud-4-it
New Member
No worries mate, no harm done except to my wallet.
dangerousbrain
New Member
But bolting it to the side and sealing it. Is all that is needed when fitting a snorkel?? so why did you make the comment that you did???
Because sounding clever is better than being clever obviously :blah:
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
Drookit Dug
Active Member
Just fitted a snorkel to my Td5 90 (and I did it properly!) check my posts for photos and details.
I have also fitted a wading kit so the axles and gear boxes all vent into the top of my snorkel (see my other posts in "Woo hoo, my wading kit's arrived") but don't buy anything until you have read the posts. You could save a bundle by just buying some hose and three, 2 into one, hose connectors.
You should silicone your snorkel to the wing to be sure. In my case I wasn't confident that the rivnuts were pulling the snorkel firmly into the wing and it is only a firm rubber gasket so I used loose washers and nylock stiff nuts as well as silicone. Gradually tightening the bolts allowed me to see the snorkel compressing the seal and squeezing the silicone. Sweet (If your'e a bit wierd like me!)!
You will also need to seal the drain hole in you inlet duct in the engine bay. It is there to allow any water that comes into the o/s wing inlet to drain off but you don't need it with a snorkel. In fact if you don't seal it you may as well forget wading as you will total your engine. The drain should be in the lowest part of the inlet duct.
Earlier advice was good. Block the snorkel top while the engine is running and look for collapsed pipes as they indicate a sealed inlet tract. Leaks should be audible and sealable.
Your ECU should really have an extension lead fitted (Not cheap) and be in a watertight box. Because I'm a bit 'pikey' and don't want to shell out for a new loom I intend to have a go at cutting a hole in a good food storage container and sealing the ECU into it. I just need to check about cooling and heatsink arrangements. If the ECU overheats it will have the same effect as dunking it. It will be fooked! I haven't had a proper look yet so I'm not wading yet!
Take any advice (Including mine by all means) with a pinch of salt. I have found that there are some 'throbbers' out here on the interweb that think they're clever but probably struggle to walk upright!
There are also some very switched on guys but it's up to you to filter out the **** before spending too much cash or totalling your engine!
I have also fitted a wading kit so the axles and gear boxes all vent into the top of my snorkel (see my other posts in "Woo hoo, my wading kit's arrived") but don't buy anything until you have read the posts. You could save a bundle by just buying some hose and three, 2 into one, hose connectors.
You should silicone your snorkel to the wing to be sure. In my case I wasn't confident that the rivnuts were pulling the snorkel firmly into the wing and it is only a firm rubber gasket so I used loose washers and nylock stiff nuts as well as silicone. Gradually tightening the bolts allowed me to see the snorkel compressing the seal and squeezing the silicone. Sweet (If your'e a bit wierd like me!)!
You will also need to seal the drain hole in you inlet duct in the engine bay. It is there to allow any water that comes into the o/s wing inlet to drain off but you don't need it with a snorkel. In fact if you don't seal it you may as well forget wading as you will total your engine. The drain should be in the lowest part of the inlet duct.
Earlier advice was good. Block the snorkel top while the engine is running and look for collapsed pipes as they indicate a sealed inlet tract. Leaks should be audible and sealable.
Your ECU should really have an extension lead fitted (Not cheap) and be in a watertight box. Because I'm a bit 'pikey' and don't want to shell out for a new loom I intend to have a go at cutting a hole in a good food storage container and sealing the ECU into it. I just need to check about cooling and heatsink arrangements. If the ECU overheats it will have the same effect as dunking it. It will be fooked! I haven't had a proper look yet so I'm not wading yet!
Take any advice (Including mine by all means) with a pinch of salt. I have found that there are some 'throbbers' out here on the interweb that think they're clever but probably struggle to walk upright!
There are also some very switched on guys but it's up to you to filter out the **** before spending too much cash or totalling your engine!
The Gribbin
Active Member
Danger - thinking aloud!
To overcome the huge cost of extension leads for the ECU, is it possible to hash something workable of a scrapped vehicle loom??
To overcome the huge cost of extension leads for the ECU, is it possible to hash something workable of a scrapped vehicle loom??
GRATCH
HUGE MEMBER
You could always PM The Mad Hat Man, I believe he makes loom extensions. Dunno what price though.
it would have to be the same loom. we have to use the correct wire.
we make extension looms. they aint cheap - they are very fiddly and time consuming and the connectors aint cheap. having said that, we is a lot cheaper than anyone else to lzers. pm me
2"
