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gary brion

Active Member
Help! My Freelander has started smoking pretty badly
seems to happen when its left ticking over then I drive off and a lot of blue-grey smoke
then clears and nothing,any thoughts? im not sure what crankcase filter its running.
Many Thanks
 
if you mind what Freelander do you have. earlier models have the sponge filters for crankcase a lot upgrades to a bmw plasticcyclone after which improved the breathing. Only sensible route is to dismantle to find out as the filter is next to the airbox
 
How many miles is on the vehicle?
Smoke after a period of idling would suggest oil is being drawn in to the intake off boost. This could be caused by failing inlet valve seals, or potentially the crankcase vent valve or filter not working correctly. The best bet is to replace the crankcase vent valve and filter, then see if the smoke reduces.

If there no improvement, then a bit of smoke after a period of idling is not a big issue, it just doesn't look great.
 
Thanks 121k on the car it does have service but not sure how many garages would be bothering with the crankcase filter
So I will check this filter and did you say there was a valve somewhere?
cheers Gary
 
there was a valve somewhere?
Click to expand...

see attached pic.

csv.jpg
 
Update! I replaced the sponge crankcase filter and air filter while I had them apart
And am pleased to say NO smoke whatsoever now, so thanks for all the advice guys
 
I had same problem (smoke) with my TD4 f1 & because I didn't have a clue I assumed it was rings or knackered engine. £400 for another & all the hard work fitting it only to discover it was the crank case filter. Devastated isn't the work. But I've got a good engine sitting there gathering dust because I got myself a freelander 2 2.2.
 
robert whiteside said:
I assumed it was rings or knackered engine. £400 for another & all the hard work fitting it only to discover it was the crank case filter.
Click to expand...
It's a common mistake to make. In reality, the M47R is more likely to break a crankshaft, than suffer piston ring wear, and being a turbo diesel, wouldn't smoke if the rings were worn. ;)
Almost all smoking from the FL1 TD4 is due to the breather system, or less likely, the valve guide oil seals.
robert whiteside said:
But I've got a good engine sitting there gathering dust because I got myself a freelander 2 2.2.
Click to expand...
The FL2 doesn't use a crankcase filter, so there's nothing to clog up on that one, although it's not without its own issues. :(
 
Nodge68 said:
It's a common mistake to make. In reality, the M47R is more likely to break a crankshaft, than suffer piston ring wear, and being a turbo diesel, wouldn't smoke if the rings were worn. ;)
Almost all smoking from the FL1 TD4 is due to the breather system, or less likely, the valve guide oil seals.

The FL2 doesn't use a crankcase filter, so there's nothing to clog up on that one, although it's not without its own issues. :(
Click to expand...
Handy to know about no breather on the f2. I'm trying to find out if there's a a way to bleed the f2 hydraulic clutch system. (I don't usually get time to get online from Mon to Thursday due to silly work shift's). I'll search & find out b4 I have the gearbox removed, just incase.
 
robert whiteside said:
Handy to know about no breather on the f2. I'm trying to find out if there's a a way to bleed the f2 hydraulic clutch system. (I don't usually get time to get online from Mon to Thursday due to silly work shift's). I'll search & find out b4 I have the gearbox removed, just incase.
Click to expand...

Yes. The FL2 clutch can be bled.
This is from the manual.
Screenshot_20210709-175717_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 
Perfect, I'll get this done over the w/end. As with standard break bleeding I would need to continue until there's no air bubbles going into the jar I presume. I'll get help from my brother to do the bleeding. Thanks again & I'll keep the results posted. Rob
 
robert whiteside said:
Perfect, I'll get this done over the w/end. As with standard break bleeding I would need to continue until there's no air bubbles going into the jar I presume. I'll get help from my brother to do the bleeding. Thanks again & I'll keep the results posted. Rob
Click to expand...

No problem. Don't forget to make sure there's sufficient fluid in the reservoir (it's shared with the brake reservoir), and once bled, make sure you put the fluid level back up to the maximum mark.
 
Nodge68 said:
If not, there other avenues to explore, before committing to remove the gearbox.
Click to expand...

Just tried bleeding the clutch but there wasn't any air bubbles coming out at all. Nice clean fluid too. I was keeping my fingers crossed but didn't make any difference lol. Any other things I could try b4 being drastic & having the g/box removed? Thanks for your help. Also, I'd like to pay into the full membership here but I haven't got p/pal so is there another way to do this? Thanks, Rob
 
robert whiteside said:
Just tried bleeding the clutch but there wasn't any air bubbles coming out at all. Nice clean fluid too. I was keeping my fingers crossed but didn't make any difference lol. Any other things I could try b4 being drastic & having the g/box removed? Thanks for your help. Also, I'd like to pay into the full membership here but I haven't got p/pal so is there another way to do this? Thanks, Rob
Click to expand...
The F2 is far to new tech for me to be able to comment on.

However, when paying by PayPal there is an option to enter credit card details without setting up a PayPal account (all within the PayPal screen) - pretty sure that's how I did it.
 
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