discomania
Well-Known Member
normal on any engine of any age of any milage
What he said, just some do it more than others, different things have an effect on the volume of smoke but they do it.
Can't speak for modern engines, but older engine on low rpm ( less than 100rpm) throw LOADS of fuel in because the injection pump goes into excess fuel mode for starting, where a low RPM governor throws in heaps of fuel to start the engine. I guess modern ECU controlled engines do the same just with use of electrically controlled methods.
So there you have it, lots of fuel in the cylinders leads to dirty incomplete burning for the first few pots as they go bang.
discomania
Well-Known Member
Not on my 2.5NA...
JimAttrill
New Member
Any engine fitted with a Bosch JE-type injector pump will do it. Nothing to worry about but it can make you unpopular with bus queues or other people who don't know to get out of the way
TomE
New Member
discomania
Well-Known Member
I was reffering to Diesels on the whole, but yes your are absolutly right, the OT is about a 300tdi.
discomania
Well-Known Member
Any engine fitted with a Bosch JE-type injector pump will do it. Nothing to worry about but it can make you unpopular with bus queues or other people who don't know to get out of the way
Yes, Lucas too. Infact the Lucas CAV's have several governers completly independent of each other to hold back the fuel in the event of a IP failure.
Almost all diesels will have a system like this in place, where this system is in place it is a bad idea to deck the throttle on starting, this will stop the low RPM goverener from working properly. Old Petter/Lister standing engines for example have an excess fuel setting for starting, whereby LOADS of fuel is thrown into the cylinder(s) to get it going, the result is a heap of smoke on start up.
JimAttrill
New Member
It's an easy job unless you have aircon because the bolts that hold the heater to the footwell are hidden behind the aircon. AND it is glued on at the factory so getting it out can require a crowbar. I changed the element in mine which means you have to take the whole shaboodle apart. The idiot that designed it ensured that the plate that holds the radiator element in will, sooner or later, wear it's way through the alloy radiator. I wrapped the plate and other bits in rubber before reassembly. What you read in the Haynes manual is how to change the heater motor only. The Haynes manual is rubbish on the heater, but so is the LR Manual - 'remove bolts' when you have no idea how to get to them. Many Defenders here in South Africa have the heater bypassed (mine was for 2 years) as new heater elements are expensive and second-hand ones are no better than the one you take out, plus it is not a nice job to change the heater box. I was lucky in finding someone who made a trialler so sold me the heater for about a fiver.
