Thanks an interesting wee pdf. I recall that LR fitted two types of speedo, one for larger tyres. The way to tell the difference is the four figure code on the bottom of the speedo dial.
 
just back from my hols
1; 235-85-16 tyres it makes it illegal because the the speedo is reading slower than actual speed. it is legal the other way around though?.
2; you can match the tyres to the speedo which i am doing after i repare my "broken speedo" there are i think there 3 models of speedos 1380, 1408, 1536
3; is it illegal to hunt down the bast$%d on ebay turning series 1,2,and 3 speedometers into sodding clocks!!!!
 
bynack said:
3; is it illegal to hunt down the bast$%d on ebay turning series 1,2,and 3 speedometers into sodding clocks!!!!
Click to expand...

Were it me I'd be hiunting him down to throw dosh at him for the guts of the speedometers...case and face can be sourced from broken speedometers.
 
Just got back my rebuilt speedometer from Nisonger Instruments (NY). Looks great, but now I find that my cable - which turns beautifully with a paperclip taped on the end of it - will not make the speedo work. Apparently the nub on the inner cable is a few sixteenths of an inch short. So I bought a new cable, got it yesterday, and I'll try this one out. Correct nub length is 7/16in.
QUESTION: When I detach the cable from the gearbox under the vehicle, am I going to get a ton of oil shooting out? Is that going to be like draining the gearbox of oil? This is my only worry. Also I noticed that one of the teeny tiny hex bolts holding the cable in place is nearly impossible to get at from any angle. It's blocked in by some other part down there. Any thoughts on that?
speedometer-stuff.html


https://alexatesting.blogspot.com/2019/06/speedometer-stuff.html

Thanks all!
Mike
 
Spent £98 on a "speed awarenss course" becuse my speedo was 15% slow due to 235/85s and RR diffs. Was trying to save the cost of reclaibrating (doh!) . The pdf miises a key issue, it assumes the rate is correct and only deals with moving the pointer, if you change ratios you have to move the hair spring in the clip, and its seriously fiddly as they put a drop of solder on it. The spring has to be longer so the same cup speed moves the pointer further. The alternatives are:
get a KPH speedo, appreantly they are quite close (not sure about that)
get a speedo gearbox with adjustable ratios, only ever seen one on e-bay USA
dig through autojumbles for a speedo with the right number (ie 15% bigger than the one you have) and swap the guts over.

I'm going to do the last one, got a Herald speedo and the numbers look close. For now I use the sat nav to give a running correction.

And don't ever use brake cleaner, did it and the numbers on the face melted! (Spose that's a possible fix, just draw new ones on?).

They exist!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STEWART-WA...919427?hash=item54712b5a43:g:fFEAAOSwg6ldAnAV
 
It is a bit busy down there as I recall does a 1/4 flexi drive help. Oil wise you should be ok , step 14 below shows the filler plug under the speedo drive so should be dry.
I assume you have the online manual as below

268F2614-7819-4159-A60D-B439C37D3023.png
 
Thanks for the help. I tried a few different adapters and a flex driver. I like the idea of a long hex key. I'll look around.
 
Yep, it's a fiddly job, especially if you have an overdrive fitted. I spent a few hours 2 weeks ago replacing a snapped speedo cable only to find the inner cable was slightly short, so the whole lot came off and another (supposedly genuine) cable went on last Sunday. It's a bit easier the second time! I have screws, not hex head bolts, so it's a lot of sweating and swearing with a flexible drive and a magnetic screwdriver bit. Does anyone know what the thread of these screws is? I'd like to replace them with hex head ones for next time!
 
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