SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Thanks Puffin! 
Parts ordered for more improvements and fixes, used most days now and finding quite a good usable every day vehicle, apart from the noise though am now used to it but soon to be addressed with sound reduction kit.
Getting 29.5 MPG average mixed use, reckon on a run will go over the 30 not bad for a non turbo!
Parts ordered for more improvements and fixes, used most days now and finding quite a good usable every day vehicle, apart from the noise though am now used to it but soon to be addressed with sound reduction kit.
Getting 29.5 MPG average mixed use, reckon on a run will go over the 30 not bad for a non turbo!
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Thanks Stutab
appreciate the comments, will post inside pics soon also about to do some oil seals on the diff and rear axle, bit harder now as using most days:car:
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Heres some pics of the inside as was.
Not a great deal done yet as will be seen in the next ones, but good clean up helped restore the gear change rubbers and made many a spider homeless
Also allowed us to use it for the B & W show as a metal tent, later pics show how we did it in pretty good comfort.
Not a great deal done yet as will be seen in the next ones, but good clean up helped restore the gear change rubbers and made many a spider homeless
Also allowed us to use it for the B & W show as a metal tent, later pics show how we did it in pretty good comfort.
Attachments
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
As pic shows bit cleaner, fixed & added 12v Socket to dash and fitted new centre consol and switches.
Switches will control internal cab lights (including consol inside LEDS) rear reverse light so it can be used while stationary, and rear compartment lights all yet to be fitted.
There will also be 12V sockets in the rear and switches to operate the reverse light, & inside lights fitted near rear door.
Note the pedal lock thought I would up the security!
Also note the boards in the back that pull out to make double bed with storage boxes slid underneath, simple arrangement and practical.
Have now got soundproofing kit to fit....theres a challenge hope it works but "soundproof"? yeh right!
Switches will control internal cab lights (including consol inside LEDS) rear reverse light so it can be used while stationary, and rear compartment lights all yet to be fitted.
There will also be 12V sockets in the rear and switches to operate the reverse light, & inside lights fitted near rear door.
Note the pedal lock thought I would up the security!
Also note the boards in the back that pull out to make double bed with storage boxes slid underneath, simple arrangement and practical.
Have now got soundproofing kit to fit....theres a challenge hope it works but "soundproof"? yeh right!
Attachments
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Will probably paint out the rear, and maybe line the sides and roof but this is still a working vehicle so keeping a balance between tidy and useable for camping and also throwing ****e and tools in the back too.
End game is to have a balance of a nice fun vehicle that am not afraid to scratch!
End game is to have a balance of a nice fun vehicle that am not afraid to scratch!
*minty*
Well-Known Member
looking good Steve. Same setup as mine. it's great been able to just crawl in the back and not have to faff about putting tent up.
Was good to meet you at B&W show as well
:5biagree: with him on both counts
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys! was good putting faces to the names, was a fun time:5biagree: with him on both counts
Reckon we will all meet again at future shows!
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
Thanks guys! was good putting faces to the names, was a fun time
Reckon we will all meet again at future shows!
Stick ya name down for Eastnor in August. I'm hoping to have a new bed base I think you'll like.
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Hopefully Redhand we will be there! lots on this summer but have certainly pencilled it in as heard its a fab show
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Well sorted the front axle seal, it was getting worse and the spinning prop made sure gear oil was nicely splashed about!
As in pic used hammer, brick and foot to loosen the prop bolts, then after reading threads here earlier today about extension poles to get the axle shaft nut undone...I span it off with my fingers as was looser than a loose thing on national slackened off day....possibly why leake was getting worse.
Was a b***d getting the old seal out but new one tapped in fine after cleaning everything up..happy days ...onto the rear hub seals...
As in pic used hammer, brick and foot to loosen the prop bolts, then after reading threads here earlier today about extension poles to get the axle shaft nut undone...I span it off with my fingers as was looser than a loose thing on national slackened off day....possibly why leake was getting worse.
Was a b***d getting the old seal out but new one tapped in fine after cleaning everything up..happy days ...onto the rear hub seals...
Attachments
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Apologies for the quality of some of my pics lately but taken on my phone saves covering the wifes smart camera with oily ****e
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Well stripped the rear hub that was showing oil leak, no oil in th brakes but lots inside the hub.
first pic shows the end of the shaft was wet, it had a split boot cover too hence the oil getting on the wheel.
Other pics show how I got the thing apart, it was a total b****d but after filing flats on the broken bolt, doing up the vice with a hammer and heating it with hot airgun until sizzling it came out using socket bars for leverage!
All cleaned up fine and new seals fitted and bearings cleaned & repacked.
Took the axle breather apart and it was solid!! this coupled with the split boot had led to the oil being pushed under pressure to the hub.
Guess it took the easy route where there was an airleak.
Bad news, broke the vent pipe nipple so need a new one...but probs solved
first pic shows the end of the shaft was wet, it had a split boot cover too hence the oil getting on the wheel.
Other pics show how I got the thing apart, it was a total b****d but after filing flats on the broken bolt, doing up the vice with a hammer and heating it with hot airgun until sizzling it came out using socket bars for leverage!
All cleaned up fine and new seals fitted and bearings cleaned & repacked.
Took the axle breather apart and it was solid!! this coupled with the split boot had led to the oil being pushed under pressure to the hub.
Guess it took the easy route where there was an airleak.
Bad news, broke the vent pipe nipple so need a new one...but probs solved
Attachments
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Topped up front axle after fitting new seal and checked its breather too which was fine.
Now going to bleed the brakes as it came with new calipers but brakes still felt bit spongy.
Once this sorted its back to fitting the soundproof kit and consentrate on the inside...and use it!
Now going to bleed the brakes as it came with new calipers but brakes still felt bit spongy.
Once this sorted its back to fitting the soundproof kit and consentrate on the inside...and use it!
charlesteton
New Member
I remember when I had my MOD 109 Ambulance with very low, 15,000, miles as soon as I started driving daily all the oil seals needed replacing. Obviously gone hard sitting around waiting for an accident or in reserve. Surprised my Puma does not have the same problem. Ex-RAF standby 30 months old and 1,800 on clock!
Looking good...
Looking good...
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Cheers
its comin on ok, and loving working on it though think the neighbors may think my language a bit unsavoury while getting broken studs and ignorant obstinant oil seals out!.Yep engines / seals dont like sitting around, its not the mileage its the age, MOD trucks get filters & oil changed needed or not but seals are not all part of the list, at least they are cheap!!
SmileySteve
Well-Known Member
Ah the saga of the axle breather!
This was totally clogged as stated earlier and the banjo bolt corroded to the banjo.
Unfortunately broke the pipe nipple off getting the bolt free and cant get a new one locally.
Wanted to use the landy so quick fix in order.
!. Hole size in the banjo where the pipe fitting was taps out M5
2. Cut head off M5 bolt and drilled it out with a 3mm drill.
3. Screwed the moddified fitting into the banjo with locktite to seal and secure it.
4. If you dont have loctite use a nut to lock it to the banjo.
5. Filed end of fitting so would enter pipe, then it simply screwed into the vent pipe due to the thread.
Refitted and works a treat, saved me about £15 too but mainly needed to save the 2 days wait
This was totally clogged as stated earlier and the banjo bolt corroded to the banjo.
Unfortunately broke the pipe nipple off getting the bolt free and cant get a new one locally.
Wanted to use the landy so quick fix in order.
!. Hole size in the banjo where the pipe fitting was taps out M5
2. Cut head off M5 bolt and drilled it out with a 3mm drill.
3. Screwed the moddified fitting into the banjo with locktite to seal and secure it.
4. If you dont have loctite use a nut to lock it to the banjo.
5. Filed end of fitting so would enter pipe, then it simply screwed into the vent pipe due to the thread.
Refitted and works a treat, saved me about £15 too but mainly needed to save the 2 days wait
