Plus will also have to see where and what type of paint I need

There useto be a paint company in Kent by Thurrock I think it was , that done a lot of paints for the land rovers ??
 

You will need a pressure reg I bought one of these & I also used it on my spray gun ;)

As for the black I could mix it with some coal to darken it haha ;):D
 
Plus will also have to see where and what type of paint I need

There useto be a paint company in Kent by Thurrock I think it was , that done a lot of paints for the land rovers ??

I thought you wanted to paint small plastic parts and bumper they don't have paint code
 
You will need a pressure reg I bought one of these & I also used it on my spray gun ;)

As for the black I could mix it with some coal to darken it haha ;):D

Yes have a regulator ,water trap, 2 x lines , one with an oiler and one without , so no oil contamination ie for tyre inflators spray guns

That’s a good idea , think dark white is normally a darker shade that bright black ;)
 
It's a talent to be able to whistle.. I'm good at it too...and look daft at the same time...

On the contrary , I knew there were different codes for diffferent shades of black ,
21C95E5D-8224-408B-8A95-F80401576F82.gif
 
LR body colour or plastic parts...you want to I think paint door handles etc...?


Lol, indeed just the plastic panel black paint ;)

Just wondering what companies sell the proper paint suitable for plastic trim etc , which I would assume an etching plastic primer as well

Daft question plse, I’m good at these, is any thinners ok or does it have to be a particular one, many thks
 
Lol, indeed just the plastic panel black paint ;)

Just wondering what companies sell the proper paint suitable for plastic trim etc , which I would assume an etching plastic primer as well

Daft question plse, I’m good at these, is any thinners ok or does it have to be a particular one, many thks

Used to use trim paint by SEM. It's online as aerosols but I had it as bottles for mixing for use with a spray gun for internal trim as well.
Haven't done trim for years & the factor I used to buy it from has ceased trading so can't advise where to get it from.

You need to use thinners that are suitable for the paint type you are using.
DON'T use gunwash to thin paint!
 
Used to use trim paint by SEM. It's online as aerosols but I had it as bottles for mixing for use with a spray gun for internal trim as well.
Haven't done trim for years & the factor I used to buy it from has ceased trading so can't advise where to get it from.

You need to use thinners that are suitable for the paint type you are using.
DON'T use gunwash to thin paint!

Thank u so much for the great help , most appreciated ref about gunwash

Is there a particular name for paint that’s used on plastic trim plse , ie cellulose , assume 2 k paint are for colours , thks
 
Your first two links you're best asking them which thinner they recommend for the product.

The ebay link describes itself as a ready for use paint. It's a basecoat & will dry matt so it needs a clear lacquer as well which is sprayed after the basecoat has dried. You will need to get the TDS sheets for it as these will tell you all you need to know about using it incl how soon you must apply the lacquer.
That applies to any paint.
A random example of TDS - MIPA 2k clearcoat - so you can see what I'm talking about: https://www.autopaintsbrighton.com/ekmps/shops/autopaints/resources/Other/2k-hs-klarlackcc8.pdf

Note that they mix to the car's paint code & only the original or No1 shade. Due to different batches in use when the car was built there can be a number of 'variant shades' so their paint may not match your car.
Your best bet is to take the car to a local motor factor that does paint & buy whichever brand of paint they supply from them after comparing their colour cards to your vehicle. If necessary you would have the paint eye-matched to the car which will give you the closest match.
They will advise what thinners etc are required & compatible with their paint.

2k means two components & a hardener needs to be added to the lacquer. Then usually a bit of appropriate thinner. I actually use that Mipa & the ratio is 1 part hardener to 2 parts lacquer & then 10% thinner.

This TDS covers Lesonal solvent based basecoats: http://byrdsautomotive.com/images/LesonalTDS/LesonalTDSBasecoats/LF2 Lesonal Basecoat SB May 2012.pdf
and this is Lesonal's water based basecoat TDS. Note that the solvent in this is water & needs air blowing over it to evaporate ('flash off') the water.I use a hot air gun for small & medium areas.
http://www.lesonal.co.uk/Products/TDS/L1.09.01_Basecoat WB_UK_Eng.pdf

All paint described as 'basecoat' must have lacquer applied.
Paint described as 'topcoat' is shiny from the gun & doesn't need a lacquer. Usually only available in 'solid' colours i.e not metallic/pearls/xirillics.
 
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Your first two links you're best asking them which thinner they recommend for the product.

The ebay link describes itself as a ready for use paint. It's a basecoat & will dry matt so it needs a clear lacquer as well which is sprayed after the basecoat has dried. You will need to get the TDS sheets for it as these will tell you all you need to know about using it incl how soon you must apply the lacquer.
That applies to any paint.
A random example of TDS - MIPA 2k clearcoat - so you can see what I'm talking about: https://www.autopaintsbrighton.com/ekmps/shops/autopaints/resources/Other/2k-hs-klarlackcc8.pdf

Note that they mix to the car's paint code & only the original or No1 shade. Due to different batches in use when the car was built there can be a number of 'variant shades' so their paint may not match your car.
Your best bet is to take the car to a local motor factor that does paint & buy whichever brand of paint they supply from them after comparing their colour cards to your vehicle. If necessary you would have the paint eye-matched to the car which will give you the closest match.
They will advise what thinners etc are required & compatible with their paint.

2k means two components & a hardener needs to be added to the lacquer. Then usually a bit of appropriate thinner. I actually use that Mipa & the ratio is 1 part hardener to 2 parts lacquer & then 10% thinner.

This TDS covers Lesonal solvent based basecoats: http://byrdsautomotive.com/images/LesonalTDS/LesonalTDSBasecoats/LF2 Lesonal Basecoat SB May 2012.pdf
and this is Lesonal's water based basecoat TDS. Note that the solvent in this is water & needs air blowing over it to evaporate ('flash off') the water.I use a hot air gun for small & medium areas.
http://www.lesonal.co.uk/Products/TDS/L1.09.01_Basecoat WB_UK_Eng.pdf

All paint described as 'basecoat' must have lacquer applied.
Paint described as 'topcoat' is shiny from the gun & doesn't need a lacquer. Usually only available in 'solid' colours i.e not metallic/pearls/xirillics.

Thank u so much for the info,

Plenty for me to read through ,most appreciated

As a side note my body colour is Java black

Also meant to ask, has anyone been successful with these so called bumper dye, is like an actual paint that u apply with a cloth etc , or are they just like another polish application , that doesn’t last very long , thks
 
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Waste of money, might as well rub them over with WD40 or black boot polish

Hi

Thks, that’s what I thought, over the years I’ve tried all different products and don’t seem to last , or u end up with polish etc all over ur hand as u open the door

Have been spending some time looking through some U tube channels , ie starting right from the beginning etc

Won’t be spraying anything till at least the spring time so gives me times to study as much as I can

There is be a paint supplier in Thurrock kent/ essex who are suppose to be very good but can’t find there site link anymore
 

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