Vagabondrobb

Vagabondrobb

Active Member
Hi guys,

Driving with trailer and N/S rear overinflated - used the nanocom to get it back down and disconnected the compressor to get home. Fault was reading “rear right sensor output too low. Intermittent 016 times. Upon investigation the plug to the sensor was filled with crap. Cleaned it out and recalibrated the ride height. All seemed ok.

This morning I start the landy up and now the O/S is overinflating!! No faults logged on the nano.

Any ideas???
 
Hi, nanocom is not reliable with SLS codes(beside the ACE glitch). It can miss codes but as long as it's just overinflating without any warning light it is not about any code stored cos with a code the warning light should come on too, that “rear right sensor output too low" was a hystorical a wheel speed sensor code not SLS related, you should invest in two new ride height sensors and recalibrate with those or at least recalibrate again but to be effective after you stored the settings let nanocom connected 60 more seconds then exit the menu untill the start page and just after that unplug it otherwise the calibration is lost. I forgot the exact procedure cos i use hawkeye for SLS so i'm not sure that after the heights were stored the ignition must go off then wait 60 secs or wait then turn ignition off so if after
 
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Ok, did you undestand what i said in my reply? the only problem is that i forgot the exact procedure to store heights with nanocom cos i use hawkeye for sls being more reliable, i dont remember if you have to wait 60 seconds after the setting command then turn ignition off or turn ignition off then wait 60 seconds so if one way doesnt work try the other but that 60 second delay before you unplug it is compulsory

edit, PS iirc you have to wait 60 seconds after the ignition is off
 
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Hi, sorry for some reason I didn’t see the reply until after I posted. It’s just curious that it happened on both sides. I replaced the sensors just over a year ago, so assumed they are ok. Saying that they aren’t originals so who knows. Nanocom says to wait 60 seconds after ignition off to save settings. I think I just waited 60 seconds and pulled the OBD. Should you come out of the menu or something?

Cheers
 
sierrafery said:
Yes you should.... as i already told you:


i've seen aftermatket sensors which failed in less than 1 month
Click to expand...
Yes you did. Sorry doing a million things at once today. Will give it one more go with the recalibration exiting at start page, But looks like new sensors. Many thanks!
 
I’m driving with compressor disconnected and the beeping is randomly intermittent - might that be a sign that there is a short in the wiring?
 
sierrafery said:
Then unfortunately seems like a wiring issue... not common but happens, you'll have to rewire that circuit
Click to expand...
So 8 months later and I've got the time to look at this once more (along with the damned 3 amigos)

Yesterday I checked continuity between sensors and SLABS ECU (C0654) and also from sensor to orange plug next to engine fuse box (C0377) - noted that only 3 wires corresponding to the LH sensor colour codes terminate here. Assume that’s completely normal. All OK.

Wondering if there's anything else I could be checking circuit wise?

I have also Switched SLABS ECU with a spare and have replaced both ride height sensors.

PS. Something I haven't considered yet is I've got a manual SLS switch fitted (previous owner), I think this : https://fritzing.org/projects/land-rover-discovery-2-sls-adjuster

It has to be spliced into the wiring circuit. At some point last few years it stopped working, but didn't notice as I never used it. Will investigate.

Cheers
 
Vagabondrobb said:
Yesterday I checked continuity between sensors and SLABS ECU (C0654) and also from sensor to orange plug next to engine fuse box (C0377) - noted that only 3 wires corresponding to the LH sensor colour codes terminate here. Assume that’s completely normal. All OK.
Click to expand...
The continuity check is not very relevant in this case cos it's an intermittent issue which affects the circuit's resistance somehow, maybe the wiring is chafed and touches earth on the O/S circuit from time to time or the connector has loosen cavities... if it was open circuit on continuity test you couldn't have calibrated it and you should have got the warning and a fault code... i've seen this symptom myself on a friend's D2 on the RH side and the only cure was running new wiring and connector directly from the ECU plug
 
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sierrafery said:
The continuity check is not very relevant in this case cos it's an intermittent issue which affects the circuit's resistance somehow, maybe the wiring is chafed and touches earth on the O/S circuit from time to time or the connector has loosen cavities... if it was open circuit on continuity test you couldn't have calibrated it and you should have got the warning and a fault code... i've seen this symptom myself on a friend's D2 on the RH side and the only cure was running new wiring and connector directly from the ECU plug
Click to expand...

Many thanks... ok that makes sense. Running new wiring seems like a good next move. Am I correct in thinking they are 0.5 mm?

Cheers
 
Vagabondrobb said:
Am I correct in thinking they are 0.5 mm?
Click to expand...
Yes, i used 3 x 0.5 multicore shielded wire, it's better protected from chafing

this kind
1724081086062.png
 
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