Is the problem a slipping clutch or something that doesn't fit?!

If it's a slipping clutch I would replace slave/master cylinders, which failing a new mainshaft seal which is major work

I don't have a clue about the different types of conversions - having Land Rover standard matches are enough trouble for me

If the clutch is SLIPPING (and it sounds like it is) there are only a few reasons.

1. The centre plate is worn out - unlikely if you fitted a new one.

2. The clutch cover has lost its stength due to a collapsing diaphragm spring. This is also unlikely if you fitted a new one.

3. The clutch release bearing is being held partly ON - that is, the release lever is not coming all the way back when you take your boot off the pedal.

This last option sounds most likely to me.

Try this first .... take off the clutch slave cylinder, and place a thick washer (say about eighth inch / 3mm) under the cylinder flanges when you bolt it back on, with the two slave cylinder set-screws passing through the washers. You may need to grind flats on the washers to get them to sit nicely. This will space the slave cylinder away from the release lever by the thickness of the washers - which may be enough!

The idea is to increase the effective distance between the slave cylinder's piston and the release lever by holding the whole slave cylinder slightly out from normal. It is a LOT easier doing it this way than taking off the gearbox to do it the other way! As long as two conditions are fulfilled you can space the slave cylinder well out, but not more than a quarter of an inch, say 6mm or so.

Condition 1 - that AT LEAST six full threads of the slave cylinder fastening bolts are fully engaged into the threads - get longer bolts if not.

condition 2 - when you try to engage gear (engine running) from rest, the gears engage easily with NO binding or crunching, especially reverse.

Now assuming you can drive it away properly, take it for a drive, and find out if it still slips - or not.

If not, sorted, and that could be that.

If it still slips try TWO washers under each bolt, and try again.

If all this still won't sort the problem it sure looks like the engine and gearbox are going to have to be separated.

Remember, the clutch CENTRE PLATE (Driven plate) always belongs with the GEARBOX (because of the splines on the gearbox input shaft) but the cover belongs to the engine / flywheel. Nonetheless, it should work perfectly well BUT there can be a snag over pushrod lengths.

CharlesY

That sounds like really good advice, I thought it may be something to do with the slave cylinder, but the mechanic tried to steer me away from it, today I think I know why, when I went to remove the slave cylinder the bottom bolt had been cross threaded in the bellhousing body and thus was not holding it's self in, so now I have another bloody problem, do you think best bet now would be to get a slightly larger bolt, or have it properly re threaded ? or is there a chance of using some kind of adhesive and following it up with a locknut for adjustment purposes,

Many thanks,

Nick.

Pain in the butt.
You may be able to take the bolt out and get a tap through it, but you would need to be VERY careful to pick up the original threads.

However, I don't see that THAT is the cause of the slipping clutch problem.

The difficulty now is that we know that a careless clumsy ass---e has been messing with your car. What else has he done that is causing the problem?

Remember, going back to my message, it MUST be one of the things I mentioned. I would still space the slave cylinder out with washers, and try that first - once the cross-threaded hole is recovered.

CharlesY

Cheers M8, great advice, shame you don;t live closer

Nick.