cheezels

cheezels

Member
With fear of asking a silly question.............

My clutch seems to slip, but only when the engine is hot??

This morning I drove to my mates place (about 60 klms) and all was well. We did a bit of work on the steering system and then I drove back.

About half way home I noticed that I needed more throttle than normal to maintain the same speed, and then pulling away from a round about the clutch started slipping. (plenty revs but no power).

Do i need a new clutch.....or could it be something else.
 
Is there any sign of oil dripping out the bottom of the bellhousing? You might need to remove a plug to check this.
 
Haven't noticed any.

Replaced engine sump gasket a couple of weeks ago, and didn't notice anything leaking from the bellhousing.

(plug is missing, though)
 
check master cylinder adjustment too much stroke can stop fluid returning but i would think you need new clutch
 
Do you think the clutch fluid heating up could cause this?

Strange thing is, is that when I got home, I put it in low range (thanks jamesmartin) to drive up our (steep) drive very slowly to get around a few obstacles and the clutch didn't seem to slip??

Most of the drive from my mates place is 85 kph speeds. Last 10 mins is town driving.

Didn't happen on the way there but happened on the way back. Same last time, too.
 
floors out, tunnel out seatbox out, props off, drain both boxes, remove slave cylinder (swear as the pipe kinks/breaks/union siezes), gearstick assy off the top of the box, xferbox selector, handbrake assy, hook up a crane to the box, remove bellhousing bolts....swear as you find bolts missing / seized, take up tension on the hoist/crane, knock the box back until it swings free.....swear as it swings too far and traps your hand/leg/arm.....

lock the flywheel, spin off the pressure plate and remove that and the clutch plate....job done...then all ya gotta do is put it all back together :)

Check the release fork and pivot is in good knick.

You may as well replace the release bearing, pressure plate and friction plate all at once, seems daft not to.
BTW, strongly recommend fitting Genuine / Borg an Beck - and NOT Britfart components - they really don't last long..especially the bearing i've noticed.

In fact, ya ma as well do the rear oil seal behind the flywheel, aswell.... and the output seals on the xfer box.......:D

Get / fabricate yerself a decent clutch alignment guide tool aswell - box is a fooker to remount if the plate is even slightly out of line with the shaft/flywheel on reassembly...
 
Getting the seat box off was the hardest part for me - too many seized bolts. It's possible to do the job with the seat box in situ but it's not easy and needs extra hands to move the gearbox.You don't really have to drain the boxes, it doesn't save you that much weight and you should be able to keep the box level. (unless you're replacing seals) Put a chock of wood between the rear of the engine and the crossmember - it'll make lining up on assembly easier. Replace the whole clutch assembly AND THE SLAVE CYLINDER - use a Girling one.
Oh, either get the special tool for the propshaft bolts or a decent 3/8 socket set.
 
oxides said:
Getting the seat box off was the hardest part for me - too many seized bolts. It's possible to do the job with the seat box in situ but it's not easy and needs extra hands to move the gearbox.You don't really have to drain the boxes, it doesn't save you that much weight and you should be able to keep the box level. (unless you're replacing seals) Put a chock of wood between the rear of the engine and the crossmember - it'll make lining up on assembly easier. Replace the whole clutch assembly AND THE SLAVE CYLINDER - use a Girling one.
Oh, either get the special tool for the propshaft bolts or a decent 3/8 socket set.
Click to expand...


Good point on the slave, makes sense really, i'd already done mine a week before the fooking clutch decided to collapse >:/
 
Onee thing before you start - remove drain plug on bell housing - and get a ear cleaning swab in there to check for oil in the clutch dust - if rear main has just let go you will not see oil dripping yet as it will turn in a paste. This is not a difficult job to replace, but WELL worth doing is it will almost certaily let go at some point. Well worth doing whilst you get box out. In terms of getting seat box out is easy enough - would not bother about trying to mess around with seized bolts just chop them off with grinder and replace with new.

This was my first major job on my landy with zero experiance on then and its was no problem. gave me great confidence to look at other more complicated jobs.

JUST BE CAREFULL WITH CLUTCH CYLINDER BOLTS!!!!!!!!! If I remember they are UNF (course thread) and not UNC (fine thread pitch) and as you cannot see when putting them back in its easy to force wrong type and fack the aluminium casting thread. SO makes sure these bolts go in a serparate bag when you take out!

But go for it - you can do all in a week end, just be sure to have all new bolts ready!
 
it might be easier to remove the engine rather than the gear box i did and it took 2 hours to remove and about the same to put it back in, but still a lot of work, but not complecated worth giving the engine a service while its out
good luck !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I have now finally replaced the clutch (with a lot of help) and all is well again.

We took the engine out. Rear seal was OK, but gearbox is leaking a bit.

Anyways just a couple of questions

1 - the clutch 'bite' point is at the top of the pedal. Is this normal?
2 - Do I need to make any adjustments to the clutch mechanisms, or is it all self 'setting'.

Just don't want to knack the new clutch.

Cheers
 
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